ok i built a box for 4 10" mtx thunder 6000 8 ohm subs it really pounds goes very low and sounds clean and hits solid. but now im running into the problem the box need to be secured.. it hits so hard it bounces around like crazy and ends up distorting some output due to resonant frequencies. whats the best way to secure this box its a rear fire type box. the trunk internals have all been reinforced and dynamatted, also its powered by an mtx 1000D (class D monoblock).

 

Glue it down.

Not kidding, bolt 2x4 to bottom of box, washers and nuts on inside of box, use a sub floor adhesive, [Lepages ultra-grip] to glue the 2x4s to the cars floor pan. 94

 

Or Liquid Nails...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C_EJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Or Liquid Nails... </TD></TR></TABLE> I tried No More Nails the other day, gluing blocks onto the inside of a trucks roof to hang an overhead screen, it took 24 hr before it was holding enough for the blocks not to pop off.

Although once cured, I think they are there for ever. 94

 

sounds like a plan ill try this method. anyone got a handy little parts list to use while im at home depot?

 

or you can use L bracket to bolt in down.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by daddycivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">or you can use L bracket to bolt in down.</TD></TR></TABLE> The point is not to drill holes in the cars floor pan. 94

 

Ok so now that i have an idea of how i will mount the box (thanx FCM) Can someone Fill me in on how to safely wire in an isolator for a 2 battery setup? Connect the starter power directly to the stock battery and the alternator power wire directly to the isolator? then the then wire in both battery's to the isolator? its a PAC brand isolator.

 

Is it a diode isolator or a solenoid isolator, do you have a link? 94