KyronBagri

Okay please bare with me as I'm copying all this from another forum, hopefully, it's as simple as that haha.

I guess I will start a fresh new build, this time I will do it properly.
So some of you may or may not know me. I have a frost white EJ9, yeah not so special but have had it around 5 or more years now, first car and all. It started life standard, then B18cr swapped, never took care of the shell and it has developed rust and looks terrible in appearance. The B18 has gone now, still loads of parts left over in the FS section.
Now the plan is and I will be going ahead with it no matter how long it takes me;

K24 with over sized pistons and all the usual stuff like uprated pump etc
K20 head with some uprated valvetrain
ITBs
LSD box
3" aiming for titanium depending on price
hoping for a nice round figure of 300 and 200 on the torque side
It will still be a daily driven car so no over the top modifications, just something that can hold its own against the expensive cars if needed to.

Shell is going to be rebuilt, rust cut back and properly sealed up, new bushes, slightly larger brakes upfront, looking at kits such as yellow speed or wilwood. Bought a 5 hub swap to rid the big brake 4x100, realised the mg discs are thicker than ek9/dc2 so mabe thats why they were always binding ?

Weight saving in places, so unwanted interior brackets are going, got myself a Bride bucket carbon etc, will be caged, probably done by custom cages, rather a weld in over the bolt in stuff.

So thats a basic summary of what I will be aiming for, no idea when it will be done but knowing me, a year or longer lol. Also finding it hard to source quality parts too, no one seems to have them anymore.

K swap parts I have so far are
NEW ARP head studs
NEW K tuned swap harness
NEW K tuned shifter
NEW K tuned fuel gauge
Mugen baffled sump

Also bought
A 5 hub swap with itr servo and m/c
ARP extended wheel studs
Genuine Bride Japan edition
SSR Hasemis 16x8 & 16x7.5

So yeah I am well off completion, engine is out and gone, interior is almost out and that's how far I've gotten. Videos HERE and below to show progress with my not so good film production, but hey I'm learning.
Also updates are on my Instagram HERE or my Facebook @Hayai.build

KyronBagri

Intro

Episode 1

Episode 2

Episode 3

Episode 4

KyronBagri

Did pick myself up a nice genuine Bride Japan Edition Zeta 3 with carbon back, just need to find some side mounts for it now but no real rush.


Also have a 5hub swap that needs rebuilding with fresh everything and will be powder coated gold


Also to go with my 5 hub swap


SSR Hasemi Pro t-s
16x8 & 16x7.5
Et38 & Et32
Should fit nicely with some 215 rubber
Just need to figure out the colour I want to go for now, originally thought about polished lips, gold split nuts and dark amethyst (ek9 colour) centres but I've had polished lips and dark centre slips before and didnt work well with the white car. These wheels also look ugly in all white so that's a no no even though I like white on white.

KyronBagri

Got some interior out -

KyronBagri

KyronBagri

Trying to get the brace out

KyronBagri

KyronBagri

Video:
Eventually got the Xbrace out as well as other stuff


Got some pics from the last time I was at the unit.
So the wheels, still undecided on the colour combo but now after playing on Need For Speed, desert sage metallic centres looks and sounds appealing.

Picked up these side mounts for the Bride seat, was told they would fit but they don't and looking like they need spacers to fit the floor rails, asked around and everyone said it should be safe as long as it's quality hardware which I definitely will be using.

Brake master cylinder and clutch master cylinder and bits all off. Forgot to picture the brake m/c but you all know what that looks like.

Bay is now completely empty apart from a few brake lines and fuel lines but everything else is gone including the headlight looms which will be tidied up eventually.

KyronBagri

Did a thing

KyronBagri

KyronBagri

KyronBagri

So today I got a little busy with the Civic after doing the fuel filter on the daily Astra.
Carried on wire wheeling the bay down to get rid of the rust and see what needs addressing and inside the bay we are looking good, just the slam pannel and outer skin that needs work.
Taken back all the seem sealer because you know what that means, stitch welding the bay up eventually.

Enough talk, here's some pics I quickly grabbed befor I headed home, a video will be up soon.


The site ruins the picture quality, may need to get back to uploading using photobucket I think.

KyronBagri

The video of removing the rust and seam sealer in the bay as promised

KyronBagri

More grinding, literally.
This was before I started today, forgot to take an after picture
The drivers side turret is bare metal now.

Got 3/4 hubs off for the new owner, pain in the *** though.


Didn't notice but you can actually see the bare metal turret I mentioned above haha
So yeah that was me today, more wire wheeling and removing the front and rear hubs, just the one rear hub left to do, not looking forward to it though as you can see I have very little working space.

KyronBagri

Update:

May have sourced a main piece of the puzzle, you will all see in the not so distant future.

KyronBagri

KyronBagri

KyronBagri

I couldn't resist. Started taking bits off the K24, the stuff I don't need like inlet, injectors, rail, manifolds, all that will be bined if they don't get sold on eBay within a week.



Still tackling the bay but It's almost finished, also started the chassis legs where most of the rust is, there's a rusted hole in the floor from a bad repair when I accidentally put the screwdriver through a few years back taking out the sound deadening.

We are getting there, slowly.

KyronBagri

KyronBagri

KyronBagri

Pulling unwanted bits off


Had an issue with the K20a2 vtec solinoid, bolt heads were rotten as you can see. k24 left k20 right
So I had smash smaller sockets on the head to get them moving, eventually after a lot of banging around I managed to get it moving and off, swapped the k24 one over to the k20 since there is no difference in them.
The k20 head is pretty bad condition wise, seems it's been sat for a long time.
So whilst I had the wire wheel and drill attachment out from doing the shell I thought i'd clean it up a little bit and was left with this

My only other issue with the head is, the guy took it apart and had everything lying around and during moving it around all the rocker assembly has come apart so I need a breakdown diagram to figure out where everything goes. All the little metal bits and springs for the rocker assembly are lying around on the floor and I have no idea if anything is lost either. Not sure if I can buy new either so a little advice would help me out.

KyronBagri

KyronBagri

The Honda Bond on the sump was no joke, took a lot of effort to get the sump free.

KyronBagri

KyronBagri

I don't think I've uploaded these in the correct order. Have been doing some work, bought myself a grinder so got started on removing unwanted bits. As you can probably make out, I cut off the tabs in the bay that are on the firewall for all the old brake hoses and what not. I also cut out the old brake hose clip in the wheel arch as they were very much rotten and couldn't be saved, Ibits fell off in my hand when removing the old brake hoses so yeah, cut and linished.


New
I've also cut out the rear seatbelt mounts, and some of the inner pannel that was used to clip the rear plastics in. Just a little weight saving and cleaning up before we get it stitch welded up and a fresh coat of white paint. Have forgotten to take pictures of this part but I'll be sure to get some next time I'm down. I also need to cut some more rusty stuff out, the outer skin of the wing has started to rot as you can see somewhere up in the build, this was obviosuly caused by removing the arch liner, all the mud and water got stuck in the holes in the pannel and slowly ate away. I will be cutting it out, sealing the insides and plating it back up with fresh metal.

Got myself some etch primer for the bare metal once it's done to prevent surface rust reappearing.