Originally Posted by 94EG8

Yep, look at Tom's hatch. He went all out on that, striped down to nothing. But he's still got it and still happy with it a decade later.

Originally Posted by 94EG8

^ that's a good deal as long as it's good work with good parts. I know synchro-tech really seems to stand behind their work. I almost want to buy something from them just because they seem to be so great to deal with.

Originally Posted by B18C5-EH2

The actual difference between the OEM USDM/pre-98 JDM ITR tranny (4.40FD), and the 98-up JDM ITR (4.78FD) isn't just the final drive ratios.

First of all the final drive assembly is the combination of the ring gear (it's the big gear bolted around the differential) and the counter shaft (also called pinion shaft) mated together. It is basically the final gear that each individual transmission gear is multiplied by.

What this means is that each gear you shift into is multiplied by the final drive, and thus the ratio of that final drive will have an effect on how quickly you accelerate through each gear. A ratio that is taller will actually have a lower number, and thus, essentially makes it take longer to accelerate through each gear.

A ratio that is shorter will actually have a higher number, and it actually has the effect of being able to accelerate through the gears faster.

Essentially the final drive ratio either raises or lowers the maximum speed achieved in each gear. A transmission with a 4.26FD will take longer to accelerate through the gears than a transmission with a 4.929FD.

A final drive change does NOT affect what rpm drops to when upshifting/shifting through the gears.

It's a common misconception that a final drive "shortens the gears" when in fact it does not change where the rpm needle falls to when shifting into the next gear. the only thing that can change that is changing the actual gears themselves. If one were to keep all gears the same, but change the final drive to a shorter one the maximum mph is shortened in each gear, so you rip through the gears more quickly. ...but if the rpm dropped from 8500rpm down to 6500rpm (just an example I threw out there) when you shifted from 1st to 2nd before the final drive swap, it would still drop the same rpm. You'd just rip through the gears/reach redline sooner.

Play with this Honda gear ratio chart with graphs, etc. and it will illustrate what I'm talking about:

Click Here for M Factory Gear Charts

Okay so now back to the original question about the difference between the 4.400FD and 4.78FD ITR transmissions.

The 4.400 tranny and 4.78FD trannies share the same 1-3 gears, and both have LSDs. The 4.78FD ITR tranny does have TALLER 4th and 5th gears, actually the same gears found in the GS-R transmission. I'm sure Honda did that to keep the rpm drop manageable between 4th and 5th gear, and allowing that taller 5th gear to keep the highway cruising the exact same as the 4.400FD tranny. Again play with that M Factory linked chart and see what I mean.

Hope that helps.

Originally Posted by Libertariat

Decided the order a NEW rear T-bracket for my H2B swap.

**Not my picture**



They're flippin' $57 shipped from Majestic Honda and everyone online wants $60-70 for them, and rusted *** ones are selling for $50.



Also, I've realized how early it was that I started ordering parts, and that I'm still working and making money, lol. /relief

Originally Posted by Libertariat

Decided the order a NEW rear T-bracket for my H2B swap.

They're flippin' $57 shipped from Majestic Honda and everyone online wants $60-70 for them, and rusted *** ones are selling for $50.

Originally Posted by 94EG8

There's a lot of stuff like that, people seem to think it's worth way more than it is. New throttle cables are only worth about $20 - $30 but everyone uses an old *** cable with homemade bracket.

Originally Posted by 94EG8

There's a lot of stuff like that, people seem to think it's worth way more than it is. New throttle cables are only worth about $20 - $30 but everyone uses an old *** cable with homemade bracket.

Originally Posted by blue8g

This build thread is the one thing that makes my visits to H-T worth it. Well, DA-Jellie too, but nothing else!

Originally Posted by 94EG8

When's the swap talking place Adam?

Originally Posted by Libertariat

March 19th is the official date

A few of the parts (engine, header, Thermal muffler, etc) were 3-4 weeks production and delivery time.

The shop doing it is HUGE so they don't mind tucking it all away in a corner.

Now I'm debating whether or not I should upgrade the radiator

Originally Posted by 94EG8

Del Sol VTEC rad or '99 - '00 Si rad is a direct fit and has the bigger waternecks. I wouldn't be overly concerned about the stock rad for cooling though unless you're going to be running it pretty hard.

Also, shop? Why no home install?

Originally Posted by Libertariat

Then I'll stick with the current radiator.

Originally Posted by Libertariat

I offered to pay for shipping, he said don't worry about it.

Originally Posted by Libertariat

Engine dealer just emailed me back, says the engine has 30-35k miles. It's from a 2001 Accord Si-R

He's called me a couple of times today:

Once to ensure I got the shipping information.

2nd time he said he didn't have a D-series A/C compressor to ship with the engine, but says once he gets one in during the next week or two he'll ship it out pronto.

I offered to pay for shipping, he said don't worry about it.



Will definitely recommend JDMSource from now on

Originally Posted by deving916

Thats awesome dude congrats.

How much did shop quote you for work? What did you end up paying for the engine set up? Im pretty sure ill use this to mock a build i do in the future minus the trnany stuff your doing

Originally Posted by Libertariat

Engine dealer just emailed me back, says the engine has 30-35k miles. It's from a 2001 Accord Si-R

He's called me a couple of times today:

Once to ensure I got the shipping information.

2nd time he said he didn't have a D-series A/C compressor to ship with the engine, but says once he gets one in during the next week or two he'll ship it out pronto.

I offered to pay for shipping, he said don't worry about it.



Will definitely recommend JDMSource from now on

Originally Posted by 94EG8

I never thought to mention it but a lot of times you can get a good used OEM SiR rad for not a whole heck of a lot from an importer.



I needed a D-series starter a while back and wanted an OEM one, I knew a friend of mine was ordering a set of early JDM ITR wheels so I asked him to order me a starter at the same time. The importer ended up just throwing it in with the order, no charge. (wasn't JDM source, it was a place in Montreal) most of them are really good to deal with.

Originally Posted by BrayzieEF9

How did you get the H23 Vtec shipped for $1100? I'm looking at getting the same motor.