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Lol woo! Speaking of you guys...I need to get some interior shots of the rear finished up. I didn't realize the bottom portion mounted differently in the ek9s, so it's only held on by one bolt at the moment but it looks good just sitting in there!
Yeah a front lip would finish it off nicely! Also looking at wings...not sure when I'll be getting those though, probably after all the holidays haha. The next big thing I want to work on is Turbo, so I'm really trying to not dump money on the smaller things.
Definitely can't wait to see pics of the seats! Aaron said he ran into the same thing, but can't remember how he worked around it. One of our other customers swapped over the entire metal frame in the seat bottom.
I'm thinking Spoon or CTR. I haven't done much research about real vs "style" fitment for these but going to try and buy legitimate if I can. Most likely used though haha
Definitely can't wait to see pics of the seats! Aaron said he ran into the same thing, but can't remember how he worked around it. One of our other customers swapped over the entire metal frame in the seat bottom.
Yep that's what it is looking like what I'm gonna have to do. On the EK9 bottoms, there are metal hoops that stick out diagonally facing forward and look to have bolts that would go through them that and into the frame. On the USDM hatches, these hoops are further back and go straight down and push into these plastic clips that are held into the frame.
The foam/fabric is pretty much the same. The top portion is real easy to swap over, only takes 30-45 minutes. Removing the fabric off the GSR confetti coupe bottoms was a pain in the ***, so I'm probably gonna take it to an upholstery shop and have them swap the fabric over...when the funds allow!
So I'm about to do a few maintenance items I think...
I've never replaced the wires on the car, but thinking it might be time to as I'm not sure when they were last replaced and I'm dealing with an odd cold idle/miss issue.
This might warrant its own thread but maybe one of yall can help!
So the idle has always been a little low, even after fixing all the leaks when I first got the car. My main concern though, is on cold starts it will start fine and sit at normal cold idle range. Then after maybe 15-30 seconds, the car seems like it starts to slightly miss/have a rough idle and slowly start to die, but never fully does. As soon as it gets to around 4-600 rpms it will shoot back up to correct cold idle and behave normally, this takes maybe 5-10 seconds from beginning to end. At any moment when it starts doing it, I can blip the throttle and it will immediately fix itself.
When I first got the car I replaced the IACV with an ebay/amazon replacement trying to fix a surging idle that ended up being intake manifold gasket. I'm thinking about just straight up buying new OEM and seeing if this is the issue.
I've read headgaskets slowly leaking coolant into the combustion chamber will do something similar, but the fact that I can immediately make the symptoms disappear by blipping the throttle makes me think the headgasket isn't the issue. I'm also not losing any coolant.
I've adjusted idle, set timing, a couple idle re-learn cycles, bled coolant, cleaned everything during my Y7 to Y8 intake manfold swap (replaced gaskets), changed plugs, and distributor cap & rotor.
I also have a fuel filter ready to be installed.
Couldn't find very much regarding this specific idle issue, let me know if you know of a thread that discusses it.
Hmmm that is an odd issue. Considering it started with the eBay/ amazon IACV i’d Assume that’s it. Once the car is proper operating temperature that stops?
Yeah after it fixes itself it usually idled fairly consistently, just low most of the time. Now though, once it is normal operating temp, the idle is hunting at times. Figured I need to nip this is in the butt with more symptoms popping up.
I should point out though, the Amazon IACV didn't really change anything as the original cause was a huge leak in my intake manifold gasket. I can't for the life of me find the original IACV I had on the car to see if it helps. The cold idle issue started randomly a few months ago.
Well got some maintenance done trying to fix the above issues. Cleaned out current IACV, i thought new one was ~100 bucks, but it's ~300 new, so yeah that's not happening lol, also changed plugs and wires. The bad news here is while I was bleeding my coolant, there were some random air bubbles still working there way out after over an hour and 5-6 thermostat cycles. Think I'm looking at a headgasket replacement eventually, need to purchase a tester to make sure it's not putting exhaust gases in coolant . Not overheating and it's driving normally atleast! After sitting for 4 days while I was on vacation, pistons look dry from what I can tell through plug holes so I dont think I'm leaking coolant into the cylinders.
It hasn't had the odd cold issue the past couple of cold starts, although not 100% its gone yet, will have to give it a few more days of testing as it only happened after sitting 8-12 hours.
Also, I finally adjusted my steering rack by tightening up the adjustment bolt on the back side. I must have been reading instructions for a different car awhile back, there was discussion of removing exhaust manifold for easier access, but I had plenty of room. Probably didn't even need to buy the specialty tool from Honda, a large wrench might have done the job.
Anyway, so no more slop in the steering! The feeling of bad tie rods is gone! Although now, the steering is noticeably harder to move, which I was expecting, but it's not too bad.
So that idle issue at cold start has only happened like once or twice since November...I still get an occasional surging idle and I think the headgasket still might be the culprit, but who knows. It's not overheating at all and I've been driving the car more due to a job change too.
Anyway, starting to get my rear disc swap underway. I've already ordered the scarebird brackets, just reaching out for some calipers! Updates should be sometime in Feb.
Finally got around to finishing my rear disc conversion. Total pain in the ***, but now I never have to deal with drums, and it gave me the chance to do some much needed maintenance all around the car! I decided on painting calipers yellow, we'll see if I hate that decision here soon...
Parts purchased were...
-Scarebird Brackets (Allows you to keep the stock and lighter trailing arm)
-Integra Calipers and associated hardware
-Integra brake lines
-OEM EM1 E-brake cables and hardware
-EM1 Master Cylinder
-Centric Blanks
-Centric Posi-quiet pads (Might be more performance oriented pads at a later date)
Did you see my yellow valve cover? It's not quite the same shade spoon uses, but im going to get a few swatches from prismatic powders and see if I can match the real thing with my powder coater
I did, I really liked it! I REALLY want a wrinkle finish yellow, but I don't believe anyone makes it unfortunately. These calipers were just sprayed with duplicolor yellow lol.
Edit: Just found a company that sells a wrinkle yellow called "Spoon yellow" ha
Finally had the time to go autocross again! Picture dump below.
Unfortunately the turbo I purchased was never shipped! Currently trying to get my money back through Paypal....that's what I get trying to save some cash buying some used parts!
Doing a lot more updates on my instagram. @Ericjergs
But figured I would update good ol Hondatech as well!
So the guy who I purchased the turbo from ended up being a turd and never shipped the thing. Got my money back from Paypal and started doing some retail therapy. So far I've purchased....
-Full street turbo kit from Goautoworks - Garrett Journal Bearing GT28 .63 AR with water cooling kit.
-Exedy Stage 1 clutch kit
-ARP headsteads
-Gates racing timing belt & OEM Honda tensioner and Aisin Water pump.
-OEM Honda Headgasket
-OEM Honda Crank and Cam seals
Still need to purchase fuel pump, injectors, gauges/wideband, slim fans, y8 high-flow cat, catback exhaust, engine management/ECU (likely Hondata s300). I'd REALLY like an LSD but I don't think that's going to happen this year, probably after a few track days or if I have to have the transmission out again.
Goals are going to be a modest 180whp, I'd really like to take it to Road Atlanta and simply get some more seat time with the turbo before going any higher. I'm also staying stock internals for the moment, so don't want to push anything too hard.
Also while the car is out of commission, I'm looking to do the EK power steering rack with Integra pinion internals to help out the lousy 4 turn ratio. I've heard this is a cheap way to get close to 3 turn ratio. Also needing to replace my Trailing Arm Bushings, I noticed some clunking noises from the rear at my last autocross event and I think I need new bushings all around, but the Trailing Arm ones are cracked real bad (will probably be purchasing hard race bushings)
10-23-2018, 06:32 AM
Re: Jergel's EJ6 Hatchback - Autocross/Daily
. Not overheating and it's driving normally atleast! After sitting for 4 days while I was on vacation, pistons look dry from what I can tell through plug holes so I dont think I'm leaking coolant into the cylinders.
