i am looking to do what i think has never been done before. taking and eu1 and basically ep3 swapping it. power plant wise... so a k-series in place of the d15b and stick shift in place of the auto. i live in okinawa and this car is very common and they are all the same except for the ones with the modulo lip kit. i want mine to be different. i know at heart this car wants to be an ep3 but cant quite do it.

i would really like the help of someone(s) with an ep3 to assist me in this project. mainly for measurements of various things, assuming that the chassis isnt 100% the same and for their experience. any one who can help will be thanked with jdm goodies from here in okinawa.

i say ep5 because it will be a 5-door? yea? anyway my goal is to have this car k-swapped and boosted and 100% bad-***. i want it to be the "only one in the world..." you know what i mean?

anyone that knows a good starting point, such as a complete parts list or something that would be great.

 

Now that, that looks like a van.

What engine is in it now? I'm guessing its alot like putting a K in an EM2 Civic, and lots of those guys have done K-swaps.

This link may help.
http://www.clubcivic.com/board/showthread.php?t=60512

This link probably won't help, but its fun to look at.
K swap EM2 picture thread
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-2001-2005-78/official-em2-w-k20-swap-photo-page-post-up-1623391/

 

I want to see this car with a K-swap... BAD

 

I want to do a K-Swap too, but I'm looking for a stripped EP3 to come my way.

In the interim, I'm thinking about how to relocate the pulley so that it doesn't interfere with the bonnet once closed. The thought of sourcing the EP3 transmission is another headache in itself.
It's looking cheaper for me to replace the auto with a CVT, tweak the ECU and swap out with more aggressive cams.

Here are the stock specs:
http://webcache.googleusercontent.co...03/shogen.html

http://webcache.googleusercontent.co...3/line_up.html

http://webcache.googleusercontent.co...2003/sobi.html

 

does anyone know what manual transmissions can be used with the d15b? i'm going to do the manual swap first before i take on the full swap...its not going to hurt me at all to buy a trans for the motor in there already just to use for the time being...

 

I'm going to do a manual swap for my EU1 too. I've ordered a used EP3 Type-R shifter from someone online (still waiting for it to arrive). I plan on purchasing a ES1 or EM gearbox since I think it should be a simple bolt up to my chassis and my D15B. I'm not going the K20 / K24 route again, but I plan on boosting it. I'm so excited about this build as I want to see the true potential of the EU-series thrive for all to see.
I don't know which shifter cables I need to get yet to make the two compatible. I'm in Jamaica, so I won't have access to used or new EP1 or EP2 shifter cables. The cost of shipping that online would be significantly more than the cost of the cables themselves (and as such is not worth it).

I don't even know where I'm going to relocate my foot operated park brake as yet to make way for the clutch pedal and cables (which I need to purchase). I'm hearing a rumor that there is a central channel between the front seats for a conventional handbrake to be mounted like that in the EP3 and EU3. Can someone confirm this?

 

You can use the EP3 five lug upgrade, I know that'll swap over. Other than that, a motor swap should be pretty straight forward.

 

Can a EP3 shifter cable work on a D-series box?
I have a automatic 2001 EU1 Civic that I want to convert to manual. I ordered the EP3 shifter, but I didn't order the cables as I wasn't sure if they could work with a D-series box.

 

Why don't you order an EP gear box?

 

I had a D15B engine. or are you referring to a EP1 or EP2 gearbox? We don't have the EP1 0r 2 here in Jamaica, just a few EP3s.

 

I got the 3 pedals from an EP3 last night. I can't wait to install them at some point this weekend (although the clutch pedal would be nonfunctional).
I'm thinking about what to do with the handbrake cable that goes to the foot operated park brake.

 

I'm going to move this to the build section as it is a build thread.

 

I don't even know if Da_all_day is still interested in this project as I need some motivation with my conversion as well.

 

im still interested... its just my fd is taking priority at the moment. i completely put this off until the fd is where it needs to be...

sorry... im still following you though...

 

Yesterday, I installed the EP3 brake pedal myself. It a tiring process as I had to be lying on my back to look up under the dashboard to unbolt and remove the automatic transmission brake pedal and install the manual one. The process took about 30 minutes as I had spent time looking at both pedal brackets only to find out that they were identical (except the rubber section where you place your feet). Since the accelerator pedal was identical, I didn't bother to swap it with that of the EP3.

I didn't get to install the clutch pedal as planned due to the complexity of removing the park brake assembly which seemed to be hydraulically operated as opposed to applying tension to a simple cable. I had made the mistake of buying a used ES1 civic handbrake only to realize that I have no way of connecting it to the floor. I was going to rip out the carpet and take a look at the mounting location, but it got too dark to do that inspection. I was told that there is an "indentation" that I'd simply tap/cut/drill-out to get the hand brake in. I'm partially afraid of wasting time to do it, only to find out that it is not possible to install the handbrake this way. I keep hearing about the hand brake needing a special console to mount the hand brake on (as the EU series has a flat-floor design). I don't know what the console looks like as I can't even find it online.


My fear with the clutch pedal is that I can't locate where the clutch master cylinder should go in the firewall, because I think the EPS might be in the way. I notices that the EP3 uses the regular power steering mechanism directly attached to the K20A while the EU1 uses a completely electric version As for the foot operated park brake, I would have removed it, but cutting the hydraulic line would have resulted in fluid spilling all over the carpet. Besides, I haven't actually purchased the master clutch cylinder as yet to properly complete the bolt-up.

 

Which gearbox would be best for this conversion?

 

very interesting... i'm in.

 

I wished I could afford a real K20 with the 6 speed gearbox, but since funds and technical experience is low, it's going to have to be a boosted D15B with bolt-ons with the manual gearbox installation. I can't wait for payday to arrive.

 

Here, I've posted videos of my slow progress thus far. I finally figured out where the cable linkages for the park brake were located as I had originally thought that it was hydraulically operated. Now I want to figure out how to move it to the center so that I can attach a hand brake to it. I had already purchased a ES1 Civic handbrake (handle and ratchet assembly) thinking that it could be work.

Note: in the videos below, I was very exhausted having working in the engine bay for the majority of the day before getting around to stripping the interior. You'll have to click on them to play the videos as I had used PhotoBucket to upload them.

 

I forgot to mention that I got the D-series gearbox installation done last week. It made a difference to the car's performance. I plan on doing a turbo installation in the future.

The issue I have though is that I can't select first, third or fifth. However, second, fourth and the reverse gear works fine. I had to use the EP3 Si shifter and cables due to compatibility with the dashboard. The EP3 cable is not adjustable and it doesn't push the selector mechanism on the transmission far "forward" enough to engage the (1,3,5) gears. I want a fix for this.

 

post pics man.... LET US SEE!!!!

 

For the past couple months, I've been admiring the spirited performance of the K20A. *As such I've been contemplating doing a complete K-swap or just boosting my current D15B. *I'm also in the middle of an auto to manual transmission conversion, so I'll need to make a decision quickly. *I've already gotten the manual shifter and pedals from a EP3 Si (recall that I have the 5 door EU1), so now I'm waiting on 2NR to order for me the shifter cables and master clutch cylinder. *Since I got impatient, I had already put in the manual brake pedal myself and stripped out the carpet to relocate the park brake (which is foot operated).

Here, I've posted videos of my slow progress thus far (you have to click to play). *I finally figured out where the cable linkages for the park brake were located as I had originally thought that it was hydraulically operated. *Now I want to figure out how to move it to the center so that I can attach a hand brake to it. *I had already purchased a ES1 Civic handbrake (handle and ratchet assembly) thinking that it could be work.

Note: in the videos below, I was very exhausted having working in the engine bay for the majority of the day before getting around to stripping the interior. You'll have to click on them to play the videos as I had used PhotoBucket to upload them.







Many photos and videos of what's actually going on is missing as I didn't get the time to upload them as yet (720p videos take a while to upload on my connection) so I should have this fully documented tomorrow.

 

On Saturday, I took the car to Superior to get the conversion done as I didn't have an engine hoist to raise or gently lower anything or a breaker bar for those stubborn (ceased-up) bolts. *Upon arrival, Superior was going to charge me more than three times what was discussed over the phone and through emails. *My personal mechanic had migrated months ago, so I had to call around for someone to do the work. *No matter what time of day I call, I can never seem to get Little T on his cell (except once weeks before) no matter how many voicemails I left. *A coworker recommended me to his personal mechanic (on Lyndhurst road) so I made the link and took the car there. *I agreed with his price, so he got the work started. *He removed the axles, subframe and lowered the automatic transmission in no time. * Thats when things begin to go horribly wrong. *The Olympics was still being aired on TV (I chose the wrong weekend for this project) and the number of broken parts during the removal process was slowly racking up. *This resulted in several taxi rides to Superior's used parts section. * Either way, the conversion process wasn't going to be finished the same Saturday (and the garage isn't opened on Sunday) so the work will have to be resumed on Monday.


Monday morning, I went down there to find this:




A clickable video for comparison:


For those of you who know my car, the glass is supposed to look like this:



It goes without saying how upset I became about the situation. *Then I got depressed when I saw this:



Let's put the above on hold for a moment while I get back to the conversion process.

 

The gearbox went in quite nicely. *I had to buy a new axle seal as they tore the last one in the removal process. *I'm trying to rememeber the proper name of the splined portion of the half-shafts (with the metal circular clip) that slides into the differential. *I had to replace the "left" one with a "right" one from Superior as the "left" one was too long and wasn't fitting in the seal and wasn't going to fit up with the knuckle either on the other end (as it would be sticking out too much). *In other words, the car now has two "right-hand" set of splines going to the open differential in the gearbox. *I'll re-write this better when I get the proper terms to explain it.


After bolting up the clutch, it came out to be about an inch and a half higher than the other pedals and feels ridiculously stiff (we definitely removed all the air bubbles from the line so now I feel like re-introducing a few to make it a little spongy). *As it is, my left knee is rubbing on the steering wheel when I'm riding the clutch. The master cylinder is self adjusting so that the height remains constant. *I'll just have to turn the nut on the piston shaft to see if I can adjust to match the height of the other pedals as left-foot braking becomes difficult on days I feel sporty. * The driving feel of the pedal doesn't feel nice like my friend's EP3 Civic or co-worker's DC5 Integra. *I didn't buy the manual subframe for this car as these cars come in manual locally and I was waiting for when I buy the EP3 K20 to buy that subframe at the same time (possibly online). * *With that being said, the automatic bracket didn't line up with the manual engine mount for the D15B so it had to be "cut-off" and welded in the proper position for it to work (the rubber mounts were going anyway). *I'll post up the video I took of the improper line-up process when it finishes uploading.






The moment of truth, only revealed that the transmission only selects second, fourth and reverse. *The transmission grinds and doesn't engage in first, third, and fifth gear when I come off the clutch. so I have to be moving off in second (burning the clutch uphill) and over revving to jump into fourth gear. *Since I'm using the EP3 Si shifter (ordered through Kahlil) and cable (ordered through 2NR) for the K20A, the cable throw may be too short to "push" the mechanism far enough to select those gears. *The cable itself isn't adjustable, so I'm open to recommendations for anyone who can cut and extend shifter cables. *In the end, I just realised that the inspection plate wasn't even installed (they claimed it wasn't compatible) thus leaving this gap where the engine and gearbox meet, so I have to avoid dirt roads and rain water at all costs until I can get the transmission pulled apart again to fix the gearbox issues.

I used the manual ECU that (apparently) came from a manual ES3 D17A2 with code PLR-J13. *The starter wouldn't engage by turning the key, so the starter was bridged to the battery to get the car to the mechanic's electrician so that he could sort out the now non-functional vehicle speed sensor, reverse switch, and starter (since we aren't using the automatic part of the loom on the ECU). *That was a absolute mess when he was done as I was driving home later that night, the headlights weren't working neither were the dashboard lights, the power windows weren't working, *neither the wiper blades or window squirt. *I had to have a friend look it over and resolve most of the non-functioning parts as the electrician had even removed the "check-engine" light-bulb which was alerting me to problems during the conversion process.

 

I just got a new gearbox installed today. The car now drives sweet.
It launches nicely, and had a measured top speed of 218 Km/h. First gear still feels unusually short (even in bumper to bumper traffic).

My next item in the project is how to get a EP3 type handbrake shipped for a reasonable price so I can think about the cable work that needs to be done.