chrisc543

Hello,

Finally decided to make a build thread. Going to be redoing the outside of my car over the summer and restoring different parts along the way. Below is what I have done and not documented as I went. I've had car for 5 years now and the outside is really rough and my swap is getting tired so picked up a block to rebuild and install.

98 Honda Civic Coupe EX

Engine:
GSR
B16 trans
Yonaka radiator
Ebay 2.25" exhaust

Suspension:
Koni/gc - 500f/600r
Asr rear sway bar
Spc camber kit
Rear toe links
Spc upper control arms
Poly rear bushing

Interior
K tuned shifter

Wheels and Tires
Enkei J-speed 15x8
BFG Rivals 225/45-15

I have plans to build a glsr and eventually turbo to get around 300-350hp.

I enjoy to autox the car and may do some track days this year.

Picture of car from last summer during autox

chrisc543

So tonight I decided to start restoring dc2 subframe I've been sitting on for about a year. Hopefully I can have in and aligned before first autox event with the faster rack.

Bath:

Disassembly:


Painting:


I didn't get any good pictures once reassembled. I will take some tomorrow.

Need to get some tie rods ordered and awaiting tie rod tool to arrive.

chrisc543

Well here is how it turned out looks pretty good to me.





Now onto ordering tie rods. I do not know how to tell the year of my rack. Looks like 94-97 have different inner than 98-01. I am assuming the 98- means 98.



Can anyone confirm?

chrisc543

Well been working hard this weekend. Didn't take pictures but still not finished.
New brakes all around
New front wheel bearings
New inner/outer tie rods on dc2 rack.
Subframe installation.

She is still down but hopefully I can finish up tonight. Hate living up north everything is rusted.

chrisc543

All finished the dc2 rack is definitely noticeable. Missed local autox event due to sons baseball tournament.

The stoptech brakes are super dusty. Not so happy with that but they feel great.

Just ordered bumper and will be ordering fenders soon to redo outside and paint it.

One odd thing I've realized is when vtec kicks in it seems to dog a lot. Checked compression and all good. Wondering why it feels like a slug once gets to 4500.

chrisc543

Well haven't done much until last night. Found out my head and crank I purchased were bad for my motor build so I need to figure that out.

My clutch started slipping and since I didn't have money to build engine. Not sure how so many people can afford to modify cars.

So I purchased a act flywheel and exedy oem clutch. Installed last night. Upon taking apart found already had a lighter flywheel than I purchased. It also has replaceable clutch surface. Can someone determine brand? I cannot find anything on it except sfi sticker which doesn't mean much.

I'd like to rebuild this flywheel and save for engine build.

chrisc543

Well ice and snow helped move my project along most likely.

I have began taking it apart today. The damage doesn't look all to bad. Ordered new fenders, radiator support, hood, Already had a new bumper I was awaiting to put on until i was ready to paint. Think the car is going to become a weekend warrior as I have now acquired forged pistons, rods and LS crank for it. Once the oil block off bolts come its going to get dropped off at the machine shop.







Damage and beginning to take apart




No stressing on inside of fenders or frame rails. So should be a pretty easy fix.

Going to get a Cherry Picker so i can take out engine and clean/spray engine bay. Hopefully get some nice weather.

chrisc543

So the weather was nice today, so I started the repair.

chrisc543

Also I started cleaning up my pistons for block assembly yesterday. The first one turned our pretty good.

Wondering if bearing is right. Is it supposed to go all the way across the rod journal?

chrisc543

Got a little further this weekend almost complete. Sick of the cold up here need to get a garage heater.

At least it opens now. Lol.

DVDr

iTrader: (2)

looking good, You are dedicated for sure. Many would of written off the chassi .

chrisc543

Yeah I'm second guessing it. But I have all thr parts for a semi built gsr with ls internals.

chrisc543

Well been working hard to get it ready for first event next weekend. Been buying tons of parts to finish build of engine for rest of season after opening event.

Ended up going to local drag strip to see what it runs before getting new engine. Was a little cold but with fresh rival s 1.5 on it was able to get a 15.5 on my first ever run. Then slowed after that as it was getting colder. Not sure if that's good or bad on a tired gsr with b16 trans.

Cleaning pistons as I await for arp spring compressor to assemble engine have everything waiting. One question does anyone know on Arias piston which side is intake? Bought used and they are not marked. Not sure if something from rod would show me. From what I see online the numbers normally go to the intake side.

chrisc543

Disregard last questions of what engine mounting bolts, they are M12x1.25x70mm is what I used. With 3 washers. They mounted to the harbor freight engine stand nicely.






I was able to get the crankshaft installed in my block. All the plastigauge showed right at .0015 which is good.










Some things came up. The oil squirters were broken in the block. The GE oil block off's got a good grip and put Loctite on them so hopefully, they don't fall out. If so I'll be doing this again. My plan was to run this one and then take the current block in my car and get it sleeved.

My new question and where I stopped for today was with the rod bearings. The rods had the U1 letters both on same side when I received them but they were used. If I put this way the bearings are offset. Not sure if that's how it is supposed to be. When I turn them around then they line up. They are Brian Crower I Beam rods. Can anyone advise?

I also emailed Arias on the question above not sure which side is intake or exhaust on pistons. Cleaned up more and definitely do not have any markings I can see.

chrisc543

This weekend was our first autocross event in Milwaukee. We had beautiful weather for it as well.

I did the driver school on saturday to dust some of the rust off since I didn't compete in 2016.

The first event was ok. Was hoping for a little better afternoon runs but my last morning run was a 68.919 which I was happy with. I didn't get a video of it. But here is a video of my second fastest run.

Wish I could figure out more what I'm doing wrong suggestions are welcome. I run in a tire limited class with a smf index. Having the engine swap kills me. I feel like it was easier to rotate this time seeing that I spun out two of my 6 runs.

chrisc543

Well been a while. Missing our local event this week due to windshield. Was cracked and they let me run last event. But basketball hit it and shattered it. Tried to get safe lite to replace under warranty they said no go. So I ordered a cold knife and got it today and took it out to access the rust damage.

Pictures are below. I think my plan of attack is going to be to cut it back to after the first tab and then weld a new piece of metal to that and fix the lower structure. There is a post on here about fixing it glad mine isn't that bad after cleaned it up. There was a ton of seem sealer in there so wondering if someone has tried to fix or cover up once already.

Let me know what you guys think. Also took some pictures of the passenger side to show no rust over there.

chrisc543

Well got the cancer cut out and ground down and started making a piece to fill it from an old hood I had. Enough for today hopefully next time I'll be able to weld it in and make the top piece.

chrisc543

I've worked on it a few times and pretty much suck at welding the $99 welder probably doesn't help much.

Looks to be sealed though and will be adding layer of por15 over it. Before final welding of top piece.

Also some sweet pics when at road america this weekend for the imsa race.

RMOracer34

This car needs a lot of love! You're doing great!

chrisc543

Well worked on it a little the last two weekends. Need to get windshield in it before snow flies. Need to get some filer to finish. Does anyone know would you apply pro15 before filler or after?

Also bought some new rods and now the bearings look much better so hopefully beginning of year engine will be built.

ShinsenTuner

iTrader: (1)

Nice.

chrisc543

Well finally back together. Ended up not using any body filler as the por15 was plenty thick.

Now if I can make it look good and finish engine. Was a joy to drive for first time since early spring.

chrisc543

Still working slowly this thing is taking forever. Hope to kick it into high gear this summer.

I got the pistons back from machine shop and he said the pin is offset.

Any idea how I can tell which side is exhaust on arias pistons?

chrisc543

Well finally an update thought I was making good progress until the same issue happened as before. Not sure wth is going on. Has to be the block is my best guess.

chrisc543

Sorry here at the pics of pistons above deck height again. So thought I had custom rods so bought eagle rods and now this happened again. Pretty trying I just want to get the stupid thing in the car going on two years now and still no engine. Might give up on whole thing and part the car.

FYI for those who may have arias pistons they said the stamping on bottom that is offset is the intake side.

What do you guys think about running thick head gasket and running it? I don't want to crush a new head gasket to clay it. Also I don't have an old one to use. Almost thinking of pulling my current engine and putting crank and pistons in that to see if same thing happens. Fml.