aceboog3x

i have a 97 dx hatch w/ obd2 gsr swap. i've been buying parts for a few months now and i was wondering wat else do i need. I plan on building this as my daily driver w/ as my daily driver but plan on getting as much ower as possible. My goal is to reach 210-215 whp. WHAT ELSE DO I NEED, AND WHAT SHOULD I DO BEFORE TAKING MY CAR TO THE MACHINE SHOP?????? the parts i have are as followed:

Je pistons 11.5.1
Eagle connecting rods
Exedy stage 2 clutch
Exedy lightweight flywheel
Skunk 2 (tuner 3 cams)
Ferrea valves (intake & exhaust)
ACL (Race Bearings)
Skunk 2 (retainers)
Skunk 2 (pro series springs)
Skunk 2 (fuel rail)
AEM (Fuel Pressure Regulator)
Skunk 2 (Throttle Body 68mm)
Skunk 2 (PRO Series Intake Manifold)
AEM (Cam gears)
OEM (Type R Shift ****)
Skunk 2 (Dual Bend Short Shifter)
Energy (Shifter Bushings)
Skunk 2 (Alpha Series Headers)
Walbro (255 fuel pump)
Gates (Timing Belt)
OEM (Type R water pump)
OEM (Type R Oil Pump)
Koyo (Aluminum Radiator)
OEM (Civic Type R Gauge Cluster)
OEM (Type R Valve Cover)
Hondata (s300)

i am currently waiting on my ARP Head studs, RC 440 Fuel injectors, and im still uncertain on should i go OEM as far as the gasket kit???? PLEASE HELP, I PLAN ON DOIN THIS SOON!!!!!!!!!!!

aceboog3x

BUMP!!!!! it has to be somebody that knows somethin else i need, or is everything covered???? PLEASE HELP

mark@silbernage

Ok.. I'll take a shot to get us started. Taking your list and paring it down to the things that should affect engine performance:

Je pistons 11.5.1
Skunk 2 (tuner 3 cams)
Skunk 2 (Throttle Body 68mm)
Skunk 2 (PRO Series Intake Manifold)
AEM (Cam gears)
Skunk 2 (Alpha Series Headers)
Hondata (s300)

I'd say you're off to a good start. Fuel pump and injectors (fuel sys mods in general) are probably not necessary since you're within range of the stock equipment without exceeding 80% duty cycle with them.

Perhaps the question is, if you stick with N/A, then what comes next?

Wideband O2 sensor connected to your EMS might help.. depending upon your tuner.

From this point on, it gets considerably more expensive - looking at things like larger bore (Sleeves? 84-85mm to 2L), 12-ish:1 compression, Skunk2 Pro2 cams, port and polish head, port-match intake.. and at that point you'll want the fuel system mods to support the increased HP.

Spendy road - fun if you like doing the work yourself.

Hope you find this helpful..

Mark

DDTECH

if its a stock stroke/bore, go with a performaner X over the skunk2 manifold.
Cam gears dont matter, as long as they are quality.
Throttle body, a 68mm an 70mm will be idenitcally the same.
doesn't matter how its tuned, as long as its tuned correctly.

angryhillbilly

what will the motors static compression be? (i know you sad 11.5:1 pistons but if they are rated for 11.5:1 ina b16 or type r then your compression will be about 11.7:1 which would be better for you)
seems like a good build, i just dont see anything that is going to push you past the 200whp mark.
i think if you really want 210-215, your going to have to start thinking about something a little more extreme, like increasing displacement, or PNP, or ITB's or something. just my opinion

aceboog3x

thanx, i plan on porting and polishing the head when i take it to the machine shop as well as port matching the intake manifold. but my whole thing where im stuck at now is shud i stay oem as far as the gaskets??? i was lookin at this cometic gasket kit and jus was unsure

aceboog3x

are u sure i wont get to the 210 area??? i seen a few similar builds and they where exactly that. maybe not the 220 whp area but def 210. maybe i'm wrong, but i am jus asking trying to learn and find out more??? thanx for ur info

JuggerNaut-CTR

Id use oem gaskets

aceboog3x

is there any specific reason? i mean i kno im gonna use most oem gaskets but i was thinkin about goin ferrea valve guides, skunk 2 cam seals, and hondata heatshield.

accorse07

Those types of aftermarket seals you mention are fine. When we says OEM gaskets, we mean OEM head gasket, valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket, etc.

Since you are taking the motor apart be sure to replace your oil pump, water pump, and front and rear main seals.

As for your WHP mark...with your list you will come short without the PnP job. I would ditch the RC injectors and get some RDX ones. Your compression at 11.5 is pretty standard for dailies these days and imo (only in my opinion) is not high compression. If the parts are still new in box and you want to hit your 215-220 mark with a fighting chance....ditch the pistons for some 12-12.5:1 and ditch the tuner 3 for some pro 2 and you will be within the mark with a good tune...even a mild tune that be streetable.

aceboog3x

THANX!!! this is the exact feedback i was looking for. and i was def plannin on a PnP, as well as a good valve job. and the only reason i didnt choose to go w/ the pro 2 is because i heard that it wud be a harder idle. my boy had some bigger cams in his car and i really didnt like how his car was idling; im not sure if it was tuned right but it was good to my likings. and about the piston comp, i heard that anything over the 11.5 area wud be tough to use on pump gas. i jus was playing it safe. please help???

accorse07

My old set-up was 12.3:1 tuned on 91 via S300 and i clocked over 30K miles on that before i threw a rod at the track.

angryhillbilly

is this supposed to convince him to go higher compression?

30k is not alot of miles.

it depends how good your tuner is.

some motors are built to 12:1 compression on 93 octane and last a year because of bad tuning.

some motor are 13:1 and last 5 years because the motor is tuned very well and never detonates.

accorse07

No its not supposed to convince him...I did not want to go into detail...but it was only meant to let the OP know that IMO 11.5 is not high comp and that 12.5 is and could be tuned on 91 pump gas and daily driven without issue.

My motor throwing a rod had nothing to do with my tune or build but more my lack of maintenance...low oil, high G's, double sessions, having too much fun to pay attention...Booom!

jazzRS

just curious, why dont more people run the tuner 3? is it a lack of midrange compared to the pro2? t3 seems like a good choice for a big street motor since it keeps a decent idle but still has huge vtec lobes