shiroitenshi

180whp+ with b16A? higher compression with the CTR cams dialled for 8K rpm peak power and racing fuel. Instant 180+@8k+whp if tuned right. I'd caution against running b16As you haven't opened up at 9K+ rpm. Most of their crank & rod bearings probably need to be refreshed/changed to new due to the age/mileage used.

JPerkMr954

Im not going to be using racing fuel... that sounds way too much.. This is a daily driver

JPerkMr954

I dont really know Y... I saw they said very aggressive.. more than Tuner cams.. so I figured its better and means more power...

zap

180whp on a b16a is easier if you're gonna use PCT(b16b) pistons + skunk2 stage2/Jun3 cams or other cams with the same profile. Use a set of ITR intake valves too. ITR IM + 64mm throttle body, stock injectors, I used a hytech tri-Y for a b18c on my build way back 2005 that get 182whp with the stock b16a cylinder head.

I eventually tried another approach, stock block, stock P30 pistons, shaved cylinder head(1mm), custom domed valves with back cut, 3-angle valve serdi valve job, stock ports, ITR intake manifold, 64mm TB, BLOX Type B, stock injectors, it made 180whp with the PS and AC belts hooked up.

Both setups were tuned on the dynojet using crome free. exhaust were with a 24inch race dump tube + 3inch intake and BPI flowstack.

JPerkMr954

Well the head that I have came with everything that it has in it, so I'm trying to use the best of it.

m_shake

Well then Pro1's won't do **** for a huge VTAKKK crossover due to the fact that the primary lobes are not greatly smaller then the vtec lobe. For mad dohc nos vtakk crossover the tuners 2's are a better bet. Careful doe, Skunk2 may throw a bounty out for you and sue you lmfao!!!

95skunkedgsr

just do a small 50shot and call it a day

nealnanoHX

There is just no way, sorry to tell you that that dyno is most likely not reading right, pretty high. A bone stock B16 puts down about 125-135whp on a dynojet. No way your are getting over 40whp with just bolt ons and a tune.

AaronEJ

believe it or not i know the dyno reads right very similar to a dynojet

my current engine setup is about 188whp @ 9k rpm

Stock B16a2 Head
Block b16a2 fresh complete rebuild with new bearings
Supertech 85lbs valvetrain
Skunk 2 Pro 1 degreed to skunks spec
Blox Intake Manifold
68mm Throttlebody
82mm CTR Pistons
Toda Rep Header
2.25" Tanabe Exhaust with decat pipe
Hondata S300

i hope i can crack 195 with a 3" intake length tuned on the dyno
at the moment im running on a modified stock airbox

nealnanoHX

^^^ That is not a stock block, you are running CTR pistons and a 82 mm bore not a 81mm bore. You should be able to get to your goal with those cams and bottom end work. A Mild port job on the head and a larger 2.5-3" exhaust will help out a lot though. That small 2.25" exhaust will be choking the motor a little in the high RPMs which is where that setup will be making all its power.
I have pulled and seem others pull some nice numbers with modified stock intakes. I added a K&N drop in filter, removed all the BS ducting and replaced the piece from the air box to the tube with a 45 degree aluminum pipe from an old intake and cut a large hole in the side of the bottom of the air box. It worked great and made as much a SRI, sounded nice and was sleeper. Kind of wish I still had it.

Whydid

Is this horsepower, or metric Pferdestärke "horsepower"?

Same with your most recent post.

AaronEJ

good point, those are metric horsepower
so currently im on 185,4 whp or 188 metric whp
totally forgot that.

i know its not a stock block anymore but the old one with 165whp was.

shiroitenshi

Nope, a bone stock B16 that is HEALTHY will put down about 150+whp on a dynojet with the cat, stock exhaust and intake. A worn B16 put outs about 125-135whp.

I rebuilt a stock b16a for a daily driven hatch, which the owner dynoed on a dyno jet at 163whp. That is with IHE mods only. (and of course, bumping out the fuel regulator to 50psi to increase slight fuelling due to the IHE mods) The stock regulator on the B16a is about 45psi. (no vacuum reference pressure) Stock ECU.

Whydid

You also forgot that we separate decimals with a decimal point and not a comma. You should also use the preposition "at" instead of "on" in that sentence.

blackEXcoupe

I'm actually in the same boat. I bought a 95 coupe with a stock b16a1 block, KMS ultimate valvetrain package and skunk 2 spec 2 cams. VTEC crossover is nasty loud, but it smokes like a train at high RPM, I'm trying to decide if its worth fixing or would a fresh GSR be faster/easier?

nealnanoHX

^^ Try adding a crankcase vent can to relieve the pressure in the block at higher RPMs before your condemn the motor. B series motors are know to burn oil in high rpms from high crankcase pressures.

JPerkMr954

Thanks for all this information... Ive decided that all I am going to do is put adjustable cam gears on my stock cams and tune it.... and then I'll go ahead and probably do Skunk Tuner 3s and then retune again...

angryhillbilly

https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/aarons-190whp-b16a-build-3074210/

maikito

OP- tho not even same engines will deliver same hp, getting 190whp+ on a healthy stock bottom end b16 with cams i/h/e is very much possible

PM sent

JPerkMr954

Beautiful motor.... A lot more done to the bottom end than I want to do... Maybe at some point i'll do ctr pistons on stock rods... but I'll never do anything more than that.... Unless I go high compression boost!

JPerkMr954

Thanks for your help!! Reached out!

JPerkMr954

Question about intakes:

So if I go to a larger throttle body, I know I will need bigger intake tubing, What is the best tubing to use, that does not get hot or as hot? Also i see that I should use a velocity stack, do people use them with the filter or without?

Deetz

So let me get this straight.....

A stock B16A makes 160hp to the crank. You add a header, intake and cat back to the car which may add about 5-7hp to the wheels. So you are telling me, that you know of a pair of cams that you can both in the make "50hp to the wheels", and on stock compression...bullshit


OP, It has been done a number of times to make 180-190hp to the wheels on a B16 (although the dyno is just a peaky blp at that power, not constant). Bumping up compression, adding aggressive cams (they only work good on engine running 11:1+ compression), upgradded valve springs, some type of programable ecu, and some MAGOR time on the dyno tuning can net numbers like that.

Why do people hate B16 (i now do) engines? Because these engines are older and cheaper, you can buy a B18C cheaply, do some mild mods, and much more easily make big numbers to the wheels.....oh, and torque is a nice thing too.....you truely don't know till you have driven a few!!!! After my 1st B20Z swap, i would never ever go back to a B16, ever!

SergEK

All this time, work and money to MAYBE hit a weak power goal when an F20B with bolt-ons will be faster and cheaper...I just dont understand why anyone would waste time trying to squeeze out power on a B16 unless they were in a displacement limited racing class...for a street car you should be aiming for the biggest motor you can afford and let it breathe for a reasonable cost....an F20B, H22, H23 H2B conversion will be cheaper than your little experiement and have much more room to grow should you want to go faster.

I mean seriously - headwork and cams? an entire F20B motor is 900 and makes more power and torque than a cam'd weak compression US B16....just makes no sense....my japanese B16 put down 155whp dynojet with 3" intake and 2.5" header back exhaust....before there was H2B available --- nowdays I wouldnt touch a B series motor...its a Big H build or a K...being that I prefer B series trans = H2B setup or dont bother really --- just saying -- save yourself some money

Singlejinglez6

I dont think a b16 is ideal all motor, even non vtec ls could be built to beat a built b16, for less money probably. Not to mention the low torque of the b16.