Im running skunk2 stage 2 on skunk springs, but stock retainers. Still need to tune, but say i keep making power to 9K, will that be ok on the stock retainers? I dont mind spending the 150 on new retainers but if i dont really need them then its a waste.

 

I THINK the main advantage of TI retainers is less weight, but they can wear fast.

 

theyre stronger. Stock ones can break, especially under high revving. Only thing is with the ti you need to replace them more often.

 

dude at 9000 you are pushing it ALOT just buy aftermarket valve springs & ret! trust me save yourself the trouble of a blown motor when you dropped a valve because you broke a stock retainer...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hamstr323 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dude at 9000 you are pushing it ALOT just buy aftermarket valve springs & ret! trust me save yourself the trouble of a blown motor when you dropped a valve because you broke a stock retainer...</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea already got the skunk2 valve springs in. It just seems like a hassle to put in new retainers and the shop will probly charge a grip. I guess a small price to pay for the potential damage.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Junkyard2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea already got the skunk2 valve springs in. It just seems like a hassle to put in new retainers and the shop will probly charge a grip. I guess a small price to pay for the potential damage.</TD></TR></TABLE>

exactly.

 

i would replace the stock ones, it probably wont cost you more than 300 for retainers and install


Modified by 99skunkedSi at 11:04 PM 9/8/2005

 

wow 9000 is a pretty risky rpm..im running on ctr with itr valve train and i dont take my **** past 8200...just cuz im a low baller and i dont wana **** **** up

 

you probably aren't make power up to 9k anyway. tuning will most likey prove that. let us know once you get it tuned!! g/l

 

You won't have any problems at all at 9000 rpms with stock retainers. The stock ones are indeed quite good. It's true that there are better, but it's not that critical if you're only going to 9k. Consider upgrading to the aluminum retainers used in the early automatic B16's if you want to upgrade.

 

Don't ask me what my buddy was doing at 9'500 but a retainer broke and dropped a valve in his newly installed ITR swap... DOOOHHH!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostinCX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't ask me what my buddy was doing at 9'500 but a retainer broke and dropped a valve in his newly installed ITR swap... DOOOHHH!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

i once accidentally revved to 10k in my b16 and was ok, but i had sk2 s/r. one of the reasons i suggest changing them.

 

my buddy cracked 2 retainers at 9k so i wouldnt reccommend taking it over 8500 without the risk of fukin somethin up man. i have the skunk2 ti retainers in mine and ive taken it to 9500 on stock bottom end. but i dont really reccommend that
either unless youre balsy or stupid.

 

from my experience 9k shouldnt be a problem for stock retainers...i ran my engine up to 9500 with jus rocket gen2 springs without problems and my friend revs his car up to 9k all the time with jus rocket springs

 

stick to stock. Ti retainers wear out and will have to be replaced. My set wore down in 40k, and not evenly. The thinnest ones were 1/2 the thickness of the thicker ones, and THOSE had worn too. It is hard to take a pic of the wear, I'll see if I can't get a set of caliper gauges to show the wear.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kendall &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You won't have any problems at all at 9000 rpms with stock retainers. The stock ones are indeed quite good. It's true that there are better, but it's not that critical if you're only going to 9k. Consider upgrading to the aluminum retainers used in the early automatic B16's if you want to upgrade.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wow, this is news to me. You always hear horror stories about the first gen auto heads... weak single valvesprings, and this and that. Their retainers are better than the M/T version?

 

just lighter. but steel and aluminum is an equal strength to weight ratio

 

How old are your stock retainers? That is the question.

 

B retainers are fused powdered metal. Honda switched to forged retainers on the K.

Just a piece of info for you guys.

 

my Stock ITR valvetrain on my b16 block took 9500 for 2 years i know rev to 8500

 

im just gonna wait till i dyno

 

early b16's had aluminum retainers? can anybody else verify this? if so then it would be a good low cost upgrade

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DonF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How old are your stock retainers? That is the question.</TD></TR></TABLE>

My stock retainers are 4.5 years/37,000 miles old, and I have the same question as thread starter. Of course I can inspect the retainers at the point of installing the new cams, but what would be the average age/mileage stock retainers are good for?

 

I'm not a fan of using stock retainers with aftermarket cams. I have seen them break far too often. I'm not saying that they are going to break, or even that it is likely, but it is definitely a distinct possiblity. Not worth the risk IMO.

Ti retains can last quite a long time, depending on the design.

 

dayam i just got a quote to install the retainers $300. Dont wanna fork out $450 if i dont have to. IM not sure how old the retainers are since they were on the car when i bought it.