type-GGSR

I am looking into doing a mild NA build leaving the bottom end stock. My car currently has the basic I/H/E on my 96 spec B18CR.

Samco Intake pipe with BPI velocity stack K&N Filter
RMF Narrow Replica Header
T1R 63MM catback gen 2

Talked to my mechanic, and he recommended Skunk2 pro 1s for my motor. Im looking to gain some nice low and very strong midrange power more than peak as I do track the car alot.

Here is the part list he created for me

Skunk2 Pro 1 Cams
Skunk2 Pro Cam gears
Skunk2 Pro Valvesprings/Retainers
Skunk2 Pro Intake Manifold
Skunk2 Pro 68MM Throttle Body
Walbro 255 fuel pump
RC 380 Injectors
Fuel Pressure Regulator / Gauge
Resistor Box

I was just wondering if the stock 11.1:1 compression ratio was adequate enough for the Pro 1s? I dont want to overcam the car. Others were recommending the Buddy Club Spec 3+ but from what I know, its only a bit more agressive than the ITR cams and I wont see much gain compared to the Skunk2 pro 1.

Anyways, i just wanted some feedback for this build, as my car is going into surgery in 2 weeks. I just want to build it right the first time.
Any help is much appreciated.

beneEE9

i cant tell you for sure that it is enove...
i just know some people that put the skunk2 pro 1 in there b18 and they run great.
why dont you ask skunk2 what they say?

wolve

ran this excact partslist on a stock JDM GSR (from a friend of mine) at 11.3 CR wit a rage header. it ran 194whp on the rollers (without touching camgears, just degreed them in) and a 12.3@114mph on a 50shot. midrange was strong as ****, very slight lope at 850rpms on 1000cc injectors and sounded stock at 950-1000rpm

just scrap the skunk2 intake mani, almost the same as your ITR mani. just spend those dollars on having your ITR ported, way more power had there. FPR and gauge is nice but nowhere near neccesairy! spend those dollars elsewhere!

on a good tune you should be able to hit 200ish whp with big midrange.

partslist is a good recomendation (except for the intake mani/fpr/gauge)!!

BC3 is very mild on the big lobe, very ITR like. i'd only recommend BC3 if someone wanted a mild setup on itr springs/ret.

cruizinmax

iTrader: (2)

^ what he said. For the fuel system I would say forget the resistor box and low impedance injectors also. Get some FIC 525 or ID 725 bosch style injectors

type-GGSR

Thanks for the input guys. I was talking to him about the intake manifold, basically he recommended it due to the fact of the bigger throttle body. I dont know the exact specs on the Skunk2 Intake manifold but basically he told me without that manifold, there would be no point in getting the 68mm throttle body. Would i really notice better throttle response with the 68mm throttle body?

wolve

skunk2 mani has the same 65mm tb opening a ITR mani does.
both mani's needed to be opened up to except 68mm (portmatched)

68mm is nice and helps a good bit up top, but i'd rock your stock ITR mani and TB and spend the money saved on a nice porting of your ITR mani and or on some portwork of the head (nice valvejob or something)

93egSLEEPER

EDELBROCK PERFORMER X!!! I put it in caps because it will spank the skunk2 all over. Probably see anywhere from 8-10whp gains. Do some thread searching on it vs. the S2 piece.

Went and found it. The ported ITR is similar to the S2...if not a bit better. The numbers speak volumes.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...rock+performer

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Yes. I am helping with a similar setup, and I recommend the manifold and throttle body combination. anything over 11.0:1 would do fine. Of course using such a large injector is not needed. This time its my cousin's 1995 Ferio

Boots

i had rocket m22x's in my ITR motor...it was a really good combo, especially since you said you didnt want to touch the block...i left my bottom end stock and made 210...big fan of rocket motorsports

type-GGSR

I would go for the rocket m22x cams with their valvetrain but I am getting a very good deal on the skunk2 products. I would love to get my head ported with a nice valve job but I have been getting quotes for like 700-1000 and that is not in my budget at the moment. Still looking for anyone who has the same if not similar setup who can give a review of its worth it to go this route. What do you guys think getting the car tuned on Hondata or would going with something like Chrome or Neptune be more than good? My mechanic said he MUST degree the cams in becuase they are an agressive cam. To do this he has to pull the motor out etc, which cost more. I have been doing research and people do reccoment to degree them but some havbe dropped them in.

Boots

you dont have to pull the motor out to degree the cams....are you sure about this "mechanic"?

93egSLEEPER

My thoughts exactly. This sounds like he's trying to rip you off.

type-GGSR

I figured you did not have to pull out the motor but he really insisted. I will have a word with him. Anyways as far as parts list, is there anything I should remove or add? I am really concidering removing the Intake Manifold and Throttle body as this build is very mild and might not even gain anything from the 2 but I could be wrong.

1.5Slowmatic

700-100 is for a ful port. a good valve job and some mild porting will run around 500 tops. save your money from the skunk intake and TB and put it into the head instead.

UncleD

iTrader: (2)

I think you're on the right track man. You don't need the resistor box though. You can do the TB/IM combo...it's a little expensive going with the S2 route but it does look nice. I purchased the Omni TB for $99 shipped...you could do that one and match it to your stock IM easily and that would save you quite a bit of cash. Pro1 is a great cam for where you want to make power. What are you tuning with? If you don't have much mechanical skill, I would pay the extra cash to have him install them...or if you trusted a friend to do it. They are big cams and take a bit of "tuning" just to get them to idle correctly after install. Nothin major though.

Boots

yea dude, i think he might be trying to eek more money out of you...taking the motor out to degree cams just sounds absurd...and like i believe someone said already, save your money on the IM and TB...the skunk2 is the exact same as an ITR IM...and i kept the stock IM and TB on my build and still got 210 out of it....id say the majority of the power to be made is going to be all in the head

type-GGSR

Im going to look for a reputable Machine shop in my area. If i were to have a machine shop do the port n polish and valave job, i would have to remove the motor regardless right? Yea i think im going to ditch the Skunk2 Intake Manifold. As for the throttle body, i know it might now yeild any high gains of my setup but will i feel better response, noticeable atleast enought to spend the extra $? As for tunning, for sure I am going to get it tuned right after everything is installed. I am deciding whether or not to go with Hondata s300 or just stick with Chrome/Neptune.

UncleD

iTrader: (2)

People say they can notice a difference in throttle response with a TB upgrade, but thats coming straight from the butt dyno which obviously doesn't mean ****. You don't need to pull the motor, just the head if you're gonna have headwork done. Honestly man - if the headwork is gonna push your budget, I wouldn't do it. But if a valve job still stays within it, thats money well spent.

pitbulldrummer

You dont have to remove the engine to get the head PnP'd, You just have to remove the Head, leave the motor in the car.

SR20S13

I'd just get a valve job, most power from porting comes from the better valve job
But yeah you can degree the cams in the car its just a little more pia

Boots

i know i might catch **** for this, but there's a saying, crome wont get you home, and im speaking from my own personal experience, hondata was much, much better...i had crome fukc up on me numerous times to the point where i said screw it and spent the money on a s200 system...never looked back...but like i said, thats my own personal experience with crome

type-GGSR

I was really leaning towards Hondata anyways. I would really like to do everything right the first time. Would the s100 or even s200 be good enough or would I have to invest in a S300?

Boots

id say s200 would be ideal...if you want to spend the money to get all the extra bells and whistles then invest in the s300, but its not necessary...either way, you wont be dissappointed between either one

mouab18c1

iTrader: (5)

NepTune RTP!

DDTECH

Why would you spend 500+ on what a 399.00 system like Neptune or eCtune can do for less.

both programs are way better devoloped then hondata.. + cost considerablity less..

both come with a Demon board, that does everything the s300 board does, plus more..