there is no spark reaching the plug wires. tried 3 different distributors, tried many different ecu's..wiring is good and all grounds are grounded, fuel is going in the engine..but theres no spark? thank you

 

what car?, what engine?, what ecu?

what are you checking spark with?

 

integra gsr, ob2 to obd1 conversion its a chipped p28 with a jumper harness ofcourse.. i ground the plug wire to check for spark but it only sparks once and goes away as i crank the car..

 

check new dizzy/pull off cap to see if they gave you a rotor. (happened to me before)

 

ya the new distributor is complete..and its in proper working order..

 

what kinda harness is it?

 

It's the stock ob2b 2001 integra gsr harness

 

Check coil resistance yet?

 

how do u check that

 

you'll need a multi-meter to check for resistance between a couple of contact points, fairly straightforward once you extract the coil.

good luck!

 

or you can just swap the dizzy with a known good one.

 

Do you guys even read the original post?? He's tried 3 different distributors already..assuming all 3 coils and ignitors aren't bad this is a wireing problem..

Are you sticking screw driver or something metal inside the plugwire then grounding it??
Buy yourself a spark checker tool at auto zone it's more consistent..if still no spark..

check fuses double check the jumper harness wires and pin fits.. make sure you have power at the distributor....get yourself an ETM check continuity from the ecm to the distributor plug etc etc..

 

Maybe I am trying to help him really find the problem and learn something in the process? Coil would be the first thing to check, stop swaping unknown condition parts...one may have a weak ignitor, the other may have a bad coil, one may be missing an ignitor...who the **** knows, I can't see them...Hell maybe he has an external coil, he doesn't specify...So F'n relax post count hero.

 

Are you sure your timing belt is good? My buddies civic had the same problem, we swapped dizzy's, ecu's etc. Turned out his timing belt was toast and cam wasn't spinning.

 

eh i forgot he tried the other dizzys, i was going of the previous poster on that one. lol o well.

might try a different jumper harness. that was my problem. was a bitch trying to figure out and fix the things that WERENT wrong with the car, haha. then i thought hmm, maybe its the jumper harness and sure enough it was.

 

This is not a school dip ****, you wanna learn something go to school...dont come in here giving your stupid assumptions of crap that aren't helping anyone ***gsr fucktard..

 

perhaps you should re-read the original post.
like we learned as kids, assuming makes an "***" out of "u" and...well, basically just you.

i really hope the majority of your posts were better conceived than this one.
good luck to you in future endeavors.

 

try putting in the obd2 ecu with no jumper harness and see if that works?

 

How does this statement help the ot?

What does my post count have ANYTHING to do with this conversation? Don't be mad at my post count, not like theres a reason to be..It doesnt mean anything..it's just a number son..get over it..

Im not "assuming" edit...If the OP had any idea of how to diag a no spark condition he wouldn't have asked this question correct?

If you have
1: a properly operating coil
2: a properly operating ignitor
3: a properly operating ecu
4: a properly operating crank/cam sensor

theres a wiring problem




so If you dont have anything to say about the OT, have a nice day..

 

funny, you literally used the word 'assuming' in your post. either way, the name calling is unnecessary.

to the OP, apologize for my involvement in this meaningless side-bar. per your question regarding the process for checking resistance at the coil, it's not a biggie. sounds worse than it really is.

1.6's post is somewhat relevant, try to work through all ignition related components one at a time. until you can verify that they're all operating properly, it's a shot in the dark. i wouldn't recommend replacing parts blindly until you find something suspect.

if available to you, review the factory service manual for guidance.
g/l.