Stock b18b bottom.
Stock b16a2 head.
ARP gsr head bolts.
OEM headgasket
OEM timingbelt
OEM waterpump

MY problem is that 3 of the ARP head studs got loose(the part that goes in the block)and blew the headgasket.

My question is how am I supose to install the ARP bolts? I did them by hand like the instructions said so and then put the head on and toruqed in proper
order.

Also The B18B headgasket dose not line up very well to the oil and water ports on the B16A head. Is this the way it's supose to be, do I have to mill it out?


P.S - The deck surface on the block and head are perfect so I am sure it's the way I installed the studs.

 

did you plug the oil hole on the head before installing?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaLova &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you plug the oil hole on the head before installing? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes the hole was pluged and the head was resurfaced by a local machine shop.

 

No, the head gasket does not line up. My sugestion would be to try the golden eagle head gasket they sell, havent used it personally, but have heard only good things about them. They also sell head stud kits.

 

did you torque them into the block making sure they reached the bottom of the hole the most important thing is to make sure all the studs are the same hight
i double nut them when putting them into the block as for the head gasket use a ls one
i got some cams that might help you set up out check sig

 

I don't know anyone who sell Golden Eagle parts up here in Canada. When I'm down in English Town next month I will deffinetly pick it up.
- I do NOT like the way the LS headgasket fits but I'm stuck with it for now.


I did not torque down the studs, I did them hand tight like the instructions said.
From doing a search I will torque the studs at 10pounds with the double nut and then re-torque them after 10 heat cycles.

I hope I got everthing covered.

 

Thanks guys for the good advice and tech info. We will see what the out come is in the next few days.

omniman- your sig is funny but true.

 

my suggestion is the use the HEAD STUDS and not the headbolts, they distribute torque better than the head bolts,and they have to be pre loaded before there actaully torqued down so you know there sitting correctly, and definitely use the golden eagle headgasket and dowel pins, there machined to fit perfetly with each other, i have the goledn eagle kit and its the dopeness.......

 

****UPDATE****

The car is up and running fine.

Things I did differently second time around:

I torqued the head studs in 3 steps and re-checked them 4-5 times. During the first step a few got loose...so I also recomend that you re-torque them at least twice. I know some of you do not and still have no problems but whatever...

I also used 2 coats of copper spray and a higher quality torque wrench, and about 3hours for cleaning and prep.

I am going to re-check the arp head studs after 10 heat cycles.

So far so good...