15sec

lmfao big ****** deal i missed the block being already tapped 4 the oil aswell the block girdle aswell sumthing all ya ******** 4got the OIL COOLER system where the oil filter goes but wateva so all u guys agree makin a gsr basically into a LS is smart when in reality its pointless might aswell buy a ls and be happy run the damn oil line...wateva man i refuse 2 argue honda tech knows it all o and by the way...and im in the process of buildin my own **** which will GUARENTEEEED get ets of high 11s low 12s ******* and I BUILT IT MY SELF so ask questions before u assume **** ...but wait thats all hondatech does voice opinions without hands on expierence im leaving this thread alone its pointless....<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Trooper &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im really going to take advice on H-T from some one who's screen name is 15sec (E.T. possibly?) and spells like a two year old </TD></TR></TABLE>

LSVTEC 91 Civic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 15sec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im leaving this thread alone</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good, now go away. Forever.

doood

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 15sec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> 4got the OIL COOLER system where the oil filter goes .</TD></TR></TABLE>

those were only on the 94-95 b18c1 blocks. try again.

i didnt understand anything else you wrote.

i guess the numerous people in this thread who actually use this setup successfully are all stupid?

you're just another poser e-thug that likes to make outrageous claims with nothing to back it up with. have fun building your 11min car. moron.

BearsEK-KMSU

I already run 11's do you still have questions for me??????? And i built it myself.
Now seriously,If you were using the ls crank with eagle rods why wouldn't u just have the crank machined so you can keep your stock gsr squirters instead of having none.

Bigjussin

back from the dead....anyone have pics of the bent squirters? we are going to build one with them in there still..as we want max oil coverage, cus it is going to get driven...well

thanks much!

MikeSarr_GSR

how much closer would the pistons be to the valves with this setup in the P72 block?

eg6-itb

a great plus to doing the setup your doing is the gsr block girdle. i would do it for that reason only. good luck.

j spec

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eg6-itb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a great plus to doing the setup your doing is the gsr block girdle. i would do it for that reason only. good luck. </TD></TR></TABLE>
:thumbup<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CLUNKER &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

forget about the block girdle buddy? you keep preaching about how the block is identical when in reality the only thing identical is the fact that it has the same bore.</TD></TR></TABLE>
block girdle and retaining oil squirters are reason enough not too ditch the gsr block. with a set off sleeves the block is the best platform for any buildup whether it be all motor, turbo, nitrous, whatever

1 2 NV

just my .02 of nonsense. although i havent done the LS rods and crank in the GSR block i have come to the conclusion that although the GSR block might be the more ideal block to go with there have been ALOT of good builds in an LS block.
in fact im in the process of doing an OEM rebuild in my GSR block. pistons, bearings are ordered. just need to get the head done and put it together. ill let you know the results once its done. realistically i hope to have it up and running within 2 months even though it could be alot sooner than that. im running into some delays in the process but they will get ironed out in the end. im shooting for 210/140 with the setup.
on a side note: i just wanted to say i have seen nothing but nonsense come out of 15sec keystrokes. he spouts off this that and the other. his "friend" did this, his "friend" ran these cams. i wouldnt take anything he says with any grain of merit period, even if it is the truth. bottom of the line is hes new and has shown nothing but shitting from the mouth as far as im concerned.

Anti-Drama Queens

would like to know as well

1 2 NV

LS and GSR have the same block heights so it shouldnt change in a GSR block.

SkoundrelUSA

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1 2 NV &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LS and GSR have the same block heights so it shouldnt change in a GSR block.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually the GSR/ITR/CTR block is 212.39mm and the LS is 211.84mm. Small difference, but not the same

all-mtr-teg

Hey there, i know this is a pretty old thread but can you please verify. I wanna rebuild my GSR block during spring break, i got a gsr head with BC3 cams, supertech v.s. and bolt ons. I also came across OEM USDM ITR pistons, To do the LS crank all i will need are the LS rods right? Or will I need to modify anything else to prevent damaging the oil squirters?

Hybrid96EK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 15sec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lmfao big ****** deal i missed the block being already tapped 4 the oil aswell the block girdle aswell sumthing all ya ******** 4got the OIL COOLER system where the oil filter goes but wateva so all u guys agree makin a gsr basically into a LS is smart when in reality its pointless might aswell buy a ls and be happy run the damn oil line...wateva man i refuse 2 argue honda tech knows it all o and by the way...and im in the process of buildin my own **** which will GUARENTEEEED get ets of high 11s low 12s ******* and I BUILT IT MY SELF so ask questions before u assume **** ...but wait thats all hondatech does voice opinions without hands on expierence im leaving this thread alone its pointless....</TD></TR></TABLE>

You also forgot the fact that the Vtec blocks have additional webbing for added strength. Also the LS block (like someone pointed out above) is actually slightly taller then the GSR block. Apparently you don't know everything either. Cool the ego down.

1 2 NV

you will need LS rods, LS or B16 bearings to fit the LS crank in the GSR block. you can either shave down .070 on the crank journals for clearance on the oil squirters or you can bend em to clear.

Natural Aspirations

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You also forgot the fact that the Vtec blocks have additional webbing for added strength. Also the GSR block (like someone pointed out above) is actually slightly taller then the LS block. Apparently you don't know everything either. Cool the ego down.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Corrected

all-mtr-teg

More or less how much should i be paying for a used ls crank and rods? I seen someone selling them for $150

chris2000

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1 2 NV &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you will need LS rods, LS or B16 bearings to fit the LS crank in the GSR block. you can either shave down .070 on the crank journals for clearance on the oil squirters or you can bend em to clear. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Assuming now:-

I have a complete B18C GSR bottom end and also a set of LS/B20 crank and rods.

1. Would i make more reliable power and torque with the Ls crank & rod combo in the GSR block?

2. If ls crank & rod to be fitted into B18C GSR block, can the OEM B18C girdle be used together with the OEM piston oil squitter?

3. Alot of people are telling me that B18C can rev higher and safer to 9000rpm than a LS crank/rod combo as chances of LS combo spinning a bearing at 9000rpm is high! How true is this??

Thanks guys.

1 2 NV

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chris2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">W1. Would i make more reliable power and torque with the Ls crank & rod combo in the GSR block?

2. If ls crank & rod to be fitted into B18C GSR block, can the OEM B18C girdle be used together with the OEM piston oil squitter?

3. Alot of people are telling me that B18C can rev higher and safer to 9000rpm than a LS crank/rod combo as chances of LS combo spinning a bearing at 9000rpm is high! How true is this??

Thanks guys.</TD></TR></TABLE>

1. reliable is a relative term. you will make more power and torque with the LS crank. its physically impossible not to. you have a longer stroke period. more stroke, more displacement.
2. GSR girdle is not a problem and you can use the oil squirters too. its been mentioned above.
3. C1 can realistically rev higher than and LS but thats because of the theory of rod/stroke ratio. everyone seems to forget these 100mm+ stroked race motors that see 10k all day long have horrible RS ratios.

chris2000

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1 2 NV &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

1. reliable is a relative term. you will make more power and torque with the LS crank. its physically impossible not to. you have a longer stroke period. more stroke, more displacement.
2. GSR girdle is not a problem and you can use the oil squirters too. its been mentioned above.
3. C1 can realistically rev higher than and LS but thats because of the theory of rod/stroke ratio. everyone seems to forget these 100mm+ stroked race motors that see 10k all day long have horrible RS ratios. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The stock B18C bottom end had proven to me to be very reliable in taking it to consistent 8200-8500rpm in endurance road race. And in short race, anywhere in 8600-9000rpm.

Assuming if i were upgrade the LS rods to ARP bolts or use some eagle rods on the 89mm LS crank will it still be reliable if it is subjected to consistent abuse to 8500rpm in an endurance road race like non-stop 12hr race??

I know some drag engines use 95+ crank revving to 10krpm but they are mostly just 1/4 mile burst and not consistent abuse seen in road race.

Anyone tried this LS combo to atleast 8500rpm daily??

all-mtr-teg

Yeah, i would like to know also, since my car is a daily driver, and i do run into a lot of mustangs and camaros on my way to school everyday. I hate getting punked by some punk in a V8 with pipes!

Hybrid96EK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all-mtr-teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, i would like to know also, since my car is a daily driver, and i do run into a lot of mustangs and camaros on my way to school everyday. I hate getting punked by some punk in a V8 with pipes!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Some punk in a V8 with "pipes" huh? Where do you guys come up with this crap?

all-mtr-teg

Central Cali slang (pipes = exhaust)

EKB18BPR3

i like how 15 sec. is all quiet now...

all-mtr-teg

I just hate v8 drivers around here cause they don't give imports any respect, i worked at autozone for a few years and these punk *** v8 drivers w/ nothing more than an exhaust system and k&n intake talk so much trash and pipe on N/A hondas and nissans like they've done so much to their cars, but won't do crap when im driving my brothers turboed bug.