Hasport

you can use 90-91 crx si rear disc and swap them onto the 88-91 civic

Hasport

all the axles comes from the same place nowadays

shift linkage for a b-swap into a 96-00 civic you can use hasport, innovative, 94-01 integra or 99-00 civic si

good luck with your swap and parts finding. its always fun gathering and then having the final product done

KPDSM

thank you - 90-91 crx gets swapped onto non crx ef for four corner disks.

its funny you say that...i was thinking about that in theory. i mean I've seen them for as low as 49 dollars...what's the difference in 49 dollars online and 70 bucks oreillys? the twenty bucks shipping built in to the oreillys ? the fact that the oreillys is up the street and to warranty the ebay one I have to send it out? I'll make an executive decision in the next couple of days and either get one or the other. All passenger axles b series manual are the same?

this has turned into an ef swap...for b swap into crx/ef is it just HAsport and innovative? Can I use a DA shift linkage or would I have to modify it?

Thanks!

Chance EG

Use Yonaka axles off of eBay.

Shift linkage used will depend on what chassis you end up getting.

Edit: Didn't see the most recent responses, and Hasport has already provided a better answer.

KPDSM

I only need a passenger axle and yonaka doesn't sell just one axle right now (out of stock).

Linkage - I want to build an ef(now). So is hasport or innovative my only options for bolt in? I thought DA stuff would work but I thought I saw that if you use a DA linkage in an ef you have to modify it.

Chance EG

Integra DA, Integra DC, or 99-00 Civic Si linkage will work. All would have to be cut to length, however. The Hasport/Innovative would work out of the box and may include new bushings depending on what package you buy. IMO it's worth it for the crisper shifts and less hassle, but anything can work.

Shortening the shift linkage

KPDSM

Are there any non v cam holders? I see them for gsr/b16 but I'm told the VTEC cam holder won't work for a non VTEC engine...

KPDSM

Good looking out. Hasport/innovative it is thank you sir.

JRCivic1

I am not aware of one that is available at this time... if you find one, let me know.

HASport shift linkage is a great product and the tech support/service is second to none... I recommend them.

KPDSM

Been having a hard time...can we make one? As soon as this swap goes a little further I'll be playing with cams and stuff - figured a cam holder tool would be very needed/necessary although, the cams bolt to the cam gears ONE WAY - the keyway makes sure of that. I imagine I can get new cams (& gears), mark the timing belt where the arrows are, slip the belt off, and swap the cams. That locker would sure help....zip ties maybe?

JRCivic1

I think the likely reason that a tool isn't available is because the non-vtec "B" series head and cams have a feature that VTEC "B" series heads and cams are lacking: A TDC hole in each number one cam cap and a matching hole in each cam so that you can hold the cams in place using a proper sized hex key or phillips screwdriver. Try it and see.

KPDSM

Can I use a p75 intake manifold and obd1 components?

JRCivic1

Yes you can.

KPDSM

Thanks

Down to the nitty gritty. House and lady come first, haven't had the extra money recently to spend it on a car that isnt even at my house yet haha.

Once I get front lower control arms it should pick back up. I'm working a guy about 40 minutes from me for a brand new in box ef linkage, and won't have any problem sourcing a flywheel.

KPDSM

Why are the ef/da front lower control arms so much more expensive than ek/dc/eg?
It's not excruciating but it's definitely more than double/triple...that's all I'm trying to spare extra money to get...

BoostHatchFreak

so if I have this right from reading the post from a few year span. let me give you a run down on what you can get to smog and not. first depending where you are in cali ( me nor cal) depends on how hard you'll be hounded about the ref/ swap. up here you must first ref b18a/b then b20. obd1 you can run a chipped ecu to pass smog with but not to ref with. ive had my old 11.7:1 b20b 404 p75 head 185whp pass super clean on a 96 ek hatch. so its easy to do, but id advise you build your bottom end as you want it. ref and smog with stock head/cams. then put your cams and what not on, 403's can run on stock springs but you get float at 7300 rpm. I run vtec inners and get no float and rev til 8300 rpm. if you have any questions pm me.

KPDSM

NorCal as well
I will definitely holler. That's really good to hear both about your setup AND the car it was in.

Good call on the 403s - thanks for the definitive answer. Stock ls/b20 fuel cut off is 7200 anyway (I thought). If I have the extra funds for them I'll grab them and slap them in early, just keep the rev limit stock. My last b20 "woke up" with a ported IM and itr throttle body, I imagine the cams "complete the package.". I read an old article that said they play nice with stock ecu too...

I already have obd1 ls ecu so when smog/ref comes around I'm covered there. Good to hear. Even better to hear that I won't have to pull my computer out to get smogged.


404s have more lobe than gsr right?
So I CANNOT just grab a b20b, Integra smog equipment and go get reffed/smogged?

When I build a head/motor, I have rebranded supertech (kms) dual valvesprings.

Thanks man

BoostHatchFreak

honestly call your local reff and see what they say. where im located they are weird and change it for each cars.

get 404's if you want my advise 403 ant worth it unless that's all you can find. non vtec want good intake manifold, big tb and big header. so figure out your 100% goals and go from there. but if u just want a smogable b swap call your local reff and do what they say. again pm if you want advise been a long time non v guy til I wanted "big " power.

BoostHatchFreak

btw my 184whp did 13.2 in a 1/4. on a 2400lb ek hatch. if you go EF youll go much much faster, if you can find a cable b16 or go hydro. again if your into that type of thing.

KPDSM

You're talking my language. Only reason I won't go b16 trans is once it's built I'll be taking a fair amount of long rides and b16 5th gear def will kill mpgs on freeway. Maybe in the future I'll grab another b16 trans and put this 5th in.

When I called they said motor has to be bigger/newer than stock no check engine light allowed and pass smog which a b20 will all do fine with ls components.

Will 404s idle though? I mean again, I won't go past the fuel cut off without built block anyway, but my last b20b ripped hard until 6200 an then it was like DEAD. Hopefully whatever set will idle with stock head and still provide power til 7200 until I get pistons and rod bolts.

BoostHatchFreak

b16 with Ls 5th with my set up neted 27mpg highway with 205/50-15's.

yes but most the time they only allow a b20 if the car came Ls. so if its a ef eg ek you got to do a Ls first. again this is what my reff says here in chico ca. don't know if your trying to reff in sac or where ever.

id just hate to see you go b20 and they tell you something like this when you bring it in to reff.

honestly if I was you and If I redid my old b20 set up again. (final set up / goals after reff would be ) id buy a b20 with a p8r head from like 1320 performance . get a 1320 smsp header,or there v3 with megaphone. 404's, performer x intake (very hard to find for non vtec) 74m tb, 3" cold air and v stack, 550cc injectors 255 pump.

I would say that would make at least 200whp with a good tunner on 91 pump. with my set up my problem was I lunched @4800 rpm at the track and shifted at 7800 rpm. if I could do it again id run on 23's lunch @ 6500 and shift @ 8300.

my boys b20 I built for his auto teggy went 13.8's with stock cams on 91 pump. as we where breaking it in and the 405's where to big for that.

KPDSM

i hope they'll let me use a b20 long block as long as i use ls everything else...i have a call in to the reff around here so waiting for a call back now...my neighbor has an ls in his garage that i may be able to get hands on if they'll make me do it that way. i would hate to have to double swap, but I have a cordless impact gun now, so it wouldnt be so bad if i HAD to.

i have this list of stuff written down, though im sure i could reference this thread later on. if you think that list will come close/break 200whp then thats good...my list was/is something like this
72mm TB (ITR Size)
Skunk2/B16(modified) IM port matched
3inch intake pipe with v stack
255 fuel pump
DC 421 or 4-1 CARB approved header
403s

You think these parts will get me close/over the threshold of 195 hp quoted on an ITR? Eventually I would like to play with some b16 style pistons in a b20 as well...rod bolts and spin it to like 8800-9k like a vtec block.

So in your opinion, the p8r is worth it? I've been thinking about it alot and I don't see any cons to getting the p8r other than it being $50-$150 more expensive.

BoostHatchFreak

yes id just order a b20 with p8r head say off ebay for 900-950 shipped. get some 404s a pro series for b18b ( come carb number) there a guy selling 74,mm tb on ebay for $50
your pump and intake tube set up will be good, header will hurt power. itr tb is only 62mm btw,
if you go p8r you will make at least 10-15 more whp over a p75. the port and valve difference is crazy different.

if your buying cams new and intake and header and using a p75 head your better off going b20v to be honestly

BoostHatchFreak

pm me so we don't fill your build thread up with all this.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

200whp is a tall order for a streetable non-v, and would take some pretty significant work. No way I'd be willing to rev that head to the moon like that with any regularity and expect it to survive. 195bhp could be doable without revving it like that though. Cost increases exponentially with rpms for any build, so it's not something to target in my opinion. Make your power target at the lowest rpm possible. If you can't make that target, try to shift the torque further up the band to do so. Spinning big numbers takes more than rod bolts, the sleeves are under massive amounts of load and the rocker design needs to be able to support it too. Also keep in mind that higher revving means higher duty cycle of rotating parts means more cycles of the moving mechanical stuff means things wear out faster. You're also not likely to pull this off with something you can get past the ref.

The P8R ports aren't crazy different. The inlets are exactly the same width and dimensions as a P75 head, obviously the throats are a little bit different to support the larger valves. Short turns/bowls/etc are all almost exactly the same as a P75. Exhaust ports are exactly the same. Advantages come from 33mm intake valves over 31mm, and the larger 84mm combustion chamber that helps unshroud them compared to the 81mm P75 chambers. The combustion chambers could use a little bit more unshrouding and a port job is beneficial, but by then you're way over the cost of a stock vtec head and still making similar power

That being said, if you're doing a non-v build do the P8R on your B20. I'm a really happy owner of one. Dollar for dollar It's one of the most grin worthy Honda engines I've built, given its simplicity. Don't worry about making the brag worthy numbers, just put it together right, tune it well, focus on the drivability, and you'll have a really rewarding daily driver engine.

If you want to build a high-revving >200whp screamer start with a vtec head and a sleeved block and you'll have the headroom to build from there (as you certainly will want to).