killerpenguin21

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95LSt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What i am saying is, if hes using a gsr block, with a gsr crank, why would you downgrade to an ls?</TD></TR></TABLE>

ever wonder why an ls/vtec makes more torque than a gsr/type r? (its the stroke in case you didnt get it)...last i checked more torque is better not worse

you should just quit while you still can because you are just so blatantly wrong. why would an ls crank with ls rods eat a bearing? i guess d-robs setup lasting 30k miles means nothing (only died due to a dropped valve)

all the reliability myths of ls/v's have been dispelled long ago. an engine is only as good as its builder first, and its tuner second...i think thats why yours blew up

SlammedDC2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by killerpenguin21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

if you remind me the end of the week when school isnt owning me, ill dig out some of my really good resources for you.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thank you, I will do that

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95LSt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yes this is what i was referring too.
he said USE THE LS CRANK WITH LS PISTONS AND RODS
i said NO IF YOU PLAN ON REVVING THAT HIGH IT WILL FAIL
</TD></TR></TABLE>
re-read my first post and notice there is not "modified" at the bottom, and tell me where I said ls pistons. I said ls crank and if I use the crank I would have to use ls rods.
reading &gt; you

killerpenguin21

https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=1

i can recite that one by heart pretty much.

it appears alot of my links no longer have pictures

SlammedDC2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by killerpenguin21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=1

i can recite that one by heart pretty much.

it appears alot of my links no longer have pictures </TD></TR></TABLE>
I've done some reading in that thread, I need to do some more reading in there as well.

92civiceg9gsr

Hmm.... use your GSR block and machine the girdle to fit the LS crank, or you can buy an Endyne one. A set of good forged rods and pistons with 11.5-1 cr. Get rid of the piston squirters, I think Golden Eagle has a kit. I say this because all the squirters do is cause more parasitic drag from the weight of excess oil and all the windage from it. Have it balanced really well. If you want it to last a long time get a damper from ATI or Fluidampr. The head will need to be moderatly ported by a reputable shop. Oversized valves are a good idea as well. As far as cams go you may be alright for your power goal. The ITBs should be 50mm for a 1.8 liter street motor. 440cc injectors are good. And you will need a really nice header like a Hytech with a 2.5in collector. I personally have a motor similar to this minus the ITBs and I have Brian Crower stage 3 cams. It made 237whp... then i hit the 125 shot.

92civiceg9gsr

O yea I forgot to say this, if you decide to keep the oil squirters youll have to heat them with a torch and bend them so the crank doesnt hit. I would just remove them though.

IntegraType-R

God you people are [freak]en morons..

If you think downgrading to a BIGGER Crank is going down your an idiot..

If you dont think ls rods and a ls crank can't rev to the moon when they're weaklinks are taken care of your an idiot.. stop posting on here if u do not know what your talking about.

IntegraType-R

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95LSt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What i am saying is, if hes using a gsr block, with a gsr crank, why would you downgrade to an ls?</TD></TR></TABLE>

What i'm saying is seriously..delete your account
You have no idea .. what your talking about.

There was plenty of time to search, what you are arguing with me..
I'm in the process of swapping out my type-r crank for a ls crank from golden eagle.. cost me 150 bucks.. and i'ma rev that ****, just like i rev my crank now.. You obviously have no idea how a motor works to think because "its a LS" it's not going to make power..you probably still drive mom's grand am.. gtfo

FST GSR 1

Wow, what a shame this thread has become.

killerpenguin21

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92civiceg9gsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hmm.... use your GSR block and machine the girdle to fit the LS crank, or you can buy an Endyne one. A set of good forged rods and pistons with 11.5-1 cr. Get rid of the piston squirters, I think Golden Eagle has a kit. I say this because all the squirters do is cause more parasitic drag from the weight of excess oil and all the windage from it. Have it balanced really well. If you want it to last a long time get a damper from ATI or Fluidampr. The head will need to be moderatly ported by a reputable shop. Oversized valves are a good idea as well. As far as cams go you may be alright for your power goal. The ITBs should be 50mm for a 1.8 liter street motor. 440cc injectors are good. And you will need a really nice header like a Hytech with a 2.5in collector. I personally have a motor similar to this minus the ITBs and I have Brian Crower stage 3 cams. It made 237whp... then i hit the 125 shot. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i agree with most of what you said, although to my knowledge you dont need to do anything to fit the ls crank with the girdle, unless it is out of round. i used gsr mains and girdle on my motor no issue (b18b1 block). compression also might need to be a little higher, and there is no need for oversized valves, almost ever.

killerpenguin21

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FST GSR 1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wow, what a shame this thread has become. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, unfortunately thats what happens when someone spreads blatant misinformation with zero experience behind it.

im no expert, but atleast ive built the motor, and have atleast a years worth of research behind it...so some of what i might say may be useful and right.

IntegraType-R

Point blank....

If you haven't opened a motor up, Shut your mouth and stop spreading misinformation.
There's like 29484 people in this thread and only 5 of them know wtf they're talking about.

SlammedDC2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraType-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Point blank....

If you haven't opened a motor up, Shut your mouth and stop spreading misinformation.
There's like 29484 people in this thread and only 5 of them know wtf they're talking about.</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol wtf did you get this number? Anyway to the people who actually have knowledgable input, thank you for your help now and to any other questions I have in the future.

IntegraType-R

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SlammedDC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
lol wtf did you get this number? Anyway to the people who actually have knowledgable input, thank you for your help now and to any other questions I have in the future. </TD></TR></TABLE>

a number i solo made up by tapping the keyboard 4 times.. Not 3, or 5.. 4.. times.

FST GSR 1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by killerpenguin21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yeah, unfortunately thats what happens when someone spreads blatant misinformation with zero experience behind it.

im no expert, but atleast ive built the motor, and have atleast a years worth of research behind it...so some of what i might say may be useful and right.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i hear ya, but I hope you didn't use RTV red for all the water seals and teflon tape on the AN threads like that link you posted was dictating. Thats

IntegraType-R

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FST GSR 1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i hear ya, but I hope you didn't use RTV red for all the water seals and teflon tape on the AN threads like that link you posted was dictating. Thats </TD></TR></TABLE>
bitch you hatin..
hold on..
wtf its not cool to use RED RTV???!?!?!?

and TAFLON TAPE??? WTF DUDE.. FST = HATERRRR

j/k lol

SlammedDC2

lol you guys are hilarious, I have to go to work, be back in 2 hours...damn I hate my job.

killerpenguin21

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FST GSR 1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i hear ya, but I hope you didn't use RTV red for all the water seals and teflon tape on the AN threads like that link you posted was dictating. Thats </TD></TR></TABLE>

haha no i didnt, i only followed it for the mechanical tid bits

IntegraType-R

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by killerpenguin21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

haha no i didnt, i only followed it for the mechanical tid bits </TD></TR></TABLE>

Quit talking HATER

Lscivic1999

OP have you look in to getting a b20 bottom end..?

b20 block, balance crank , high compression pistons and port your head and build it cams,retainer, springs ect, also good intake manifold/throttle body combination and good tune..

just dont take a cheap route, take care of the minor details ..

shiftat9kay

I wouldnt rec the itb's to start with i feel that your not going to be happy when you spend that money and see your hp numbers sure they look sick and sound amazing give great throttle response but a nice intake manifold with the right cams , header and tune will make the same power. as far as crank , id use the gsr , revs up easier slightly shorter stroke. id also hight rec using the arp rod bolts in ANY of your combinations. going over 8k is severely stressful on the stock ones basically bottom end suicide. A nice header is a good guy to making power its def worth it rather spend 700 on a header then itbs and you dont loose drivability on the street.

killerpenguin21

Oy...here go again. Now itbs automatically drive horribly damn I wish someone would have told me

SlammedDC2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lscivic1999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OP have you look in to getting a b20 bottom end..?

b20 block, balance crank , high compression pistons and port your head and build it cams,retainer, springs ect, also good intake manifold/throttle body combination and good tune..

just dont take a cheap route, take care of the minor details ..</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not really looking to go with b20 bottom end, but I haven't made any final decisions either. I will be balancing the entire rotating assembly, and as for the the manifold/TB...I'm probably going to go with the ITB's, but again nothing is set in stone.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shiftat9kay &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wouldnt rec the itb's to start with i feel that your not going to be happy when you spend that money and see your hp numbers sure they look sick and sound amazing give great throttle response but a nice intake manifold with the right cams , header and tune will make the same power. as far as crank , id use the gsr , revs up easier slightly shorter stroke. id also hight rec using the arp rod bolts in ANY of your combinations. going over 8k is severely stressful on the stock ones basically bottom end suicide. A nice header is a good guy to making power its def worth it rather spend 700 on a header then itbs and you dont loose drivability on the street.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I am more than likely going with the ITB's so long as I can find a fantastic [freak]ing tuner as they will make good power as long as I get a fantastic [freak]ing tune. I am already planning to get a good header, such as SMSP. The LS crank will rev up just as easily as a GSR. I am going to be using ARP all over the motor as I want my motor to last. And you let me know where you can get a new set of ITB's for $700.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by killerpenguin21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oy...here go again. Now itbs automatically drive horribly damn I wish someone would have told me
</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol it really pisses you off doesn't it? lol.

IntegraType-R

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shiftat9kay &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wouldnt rec the itb's to start with i feel that your not going to be happy when you spend that money and see your hp numbers sure they look sick and sound amazing give great throttle response but a nice intake manifold with the right cams , header and tune will make the same power. as far as crank , id use the gsr , revs up easier slightly shorter stroke. id also hight rec using the arp rod bolts in ANY of your combinations. going over 8k is severely stressful on the stock ones basically bottom end suicide. A nice header is a good guy to making power its def worth it rather spend 700 on a header then itbs and you dont loose drivability on the street.</TD></TR></TABLE>

*ahem*
I see your a newbie.. I'll show you around.. Welcome to honda-tech.. Where me and ***$nyper put Foot to *** on new comers.

ITBS.. For those who are "uneducated" ITBS Provide Great Throttle response, Huge top end and a big gulp of Midrange. They're also great "bling"
Of course a Ported / polish manifold, with a great head and cams to match, along with a Custom header and exhaust can provide what itbs do.. Both a manifold and ITBS are great both ways, Speaking from "experince" i've had 3 different manifolds, and a set of "ported" and "polished" TWM 50MM ITBS. With that said, Its all in the tune.. My Motor.. Liked the ITBS.. I went from a 13.8 to a 13.6 by slapping them on and just Mildly street tuning them... so trust me.. They're worth they're weight in gold. Imagine what the power output would have been, if i would have spent the time to dial in the gears, and really sit and tune my car like i should. I ran ITBS Daily for over 8 months.. So.. get lost... No wait, sit back down, i'm not done educating.

GSR crank EH? What.. in the [freak].. do you people not understand about Using a LS Crank?? A LS crank can Rev just as high, fast as any other crank. The CRANK was never a problem, in FACT aside from taking the time to remove the oil squirters in vtec motors, the ls crank is the strongest crank honda provides in b series.. HOLY MOLY!!!

Btw.. i'm 200+WHP on a stock.. 99 USDM B18c5. This Car has seen multiple induction setups, a NUMBER of set of cams.. Nitrous ranging from 25 shot to a 100 shot.. And revs of 10k.. 4 years so far.. Stock block.. i drive this car almost 4 days a week.. and it gets abused like a hooker..

You dont "lose" anything going to ITBS.. infact you gain more.. if anything. There will always be a he said, She said.. A huge *** thread about whats good about a manifold and whats bad about itbs..

Lemme tell you something if your not speaking from experince or tuned 30000000 cars like i have on a monthly bases.. Sit down, you have nothing to base your reply on but Hear say.

dont let ***$nyper get ahold of you..
Class dismissed

IntegraType-R

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lscivic1999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OP have you look in to getting a b20 bottom end..?

b20 block, balance crank , high compression pistons and port your head and build it cams,retainer, springs ect, also good intake manifold/throttle body combination and good tune..

just dont take a cheap route, take care of the minor details ..

</TD></TR></TABLE>

He can almost get the same output from just changing over to a ls crank / rods.. and it'll probably last longer, AND he'll be able to run a more aggressive ign maps.. B20 sleeves are weak..weak as ****.