Wow this amazes me. There are torque specs for a reason. We torque every flywheel and every crank pulley. I also have never had this happen to me. Yeah I know how honda techs around here are trained I know plenty of them and hear plenty of horror stories about how some of their service procedures are performed. Good luck

 

Yeah I am the exact same way, I've always used an impact and no loctite and no issues ever. I hate loctite and even worse I hate anti-sieze lol, stuff makes a mess everywhere!

 

Yes I know this lol, heard you say it a million times lol

My only gripe is that they are so bulky. I had to nothch the bottom of the cylinder and I also had to add shims btween the main caps and crank girdle, and custom make some longer dowels while doing so. Then on top of that I had to rework the oil pan to clear the main girdle lol. So far so good though.

What are you up to these days? Long time no talk man

 

Guys are you serious there's a reason why factory built cars come with both Loctite and anti seize in the correct places. Do you torque heads down and lubricate main studs or head bolts? You do that for a reason because it's necessary. Why do you suppose Honda sells the tool to hold a crank pulley still? When I work on my own car things maybe a little bit different but when I work on customers cars everything gets torqued to spec.
I'll bet you all let your half inch impact drive on all your lug nuts too. Frankly I'm astonished because I have seen both of you hand out great advice on here.

 

I use Loctite on both the flywheel and crank pulley bolts. I know of some who also don't use it. When applied correctly... say that twice, what can it harm.

I also like aluminum rods and our personal car uses girdle spacers. We also have a setup being built that isn't running a girdle at all.

It just goes to show you there's more than one way to skin a cat.

 

I beleive that if stock motors came out the way that race engines are built, torque specs and certain procedures and assembly process would be a lot different than they are on stock motors that the engineers design.

 

I torque all main bolts, rod bolts and head bolts, for sure everytime and yes the correct lubricating fluid is critical to how much torque those bolts take. If its possible I also use a stretch guage on rod bolts but the majority of the time it does not fit in there. All other small bolts I use feel and common sense. On these aspects I am very meticulous.

I use an impact ONLY on flywheel bolts and crank pulley bolts, never an issue period. These bolts also get replaced on most every teardown. I dont have a ridiculousy crazy impact either, its not ripping out threads or overstretching bolts. Its regulated pressure and I bet its more consistant then you would think at those high levels. A torque wrench is only good if its taken care of, its also only accurate in its median range. If you have a wrench that goes from 20-100 ft lb, its going to be most accurate around 60 and not so much at the extremes on either end. If you are trying to torque something on the large end of the range you may not even be getting there or it may be inconsistant. If they arent relaxed after use then thats going to throw them off as well. How many people use a torque wrench and then throw it back in their tool box till next time. If you dont completely back it off back to zero and keep that pressure off it then its going to end up out of adjustment.

 

Your right about torque wrenches. Every wrench I use gets set to zero after every use every time no acceptions. I also keep mine fresh and new. My newest one is a snap on digital. It'll get traded in after two years. I also check my wrenches against each other regularly. I am obviously more meticulous than most.

 

yes I also use 1/2" impact on lugnuts and so does everyone at the dealer and at the track whos been racing for long enough.

only time I would use a tq wrench for wheels if if they are a customers bling bling high dollar rims. Honda techs don't use a tq wrench either but many do use the blue tq stick as did I @ Honda.

btw I don't need luck, I will go with experience and knowledge instead.

 

exactly same here.

what a lot of people don't realize is that some parts, especially crank pulleys can be somewhat stuck in place weather its due to rust or heat what have you. many times a tq wrench isn't going to seat that bolt/pulley in place before the wrench clicks. many times it requires a good impact to fully seat it. especially for tightening axles pulling the wheel bearing together. you would be a fool not to use an impact there.

you guys using a tq wrench for tightening your crank pulley bolts are taking much more risk than anyone using a good impact

 

as far as racing goes, pretty much only building engines and custom parts here and there for customers/friends. I only get to the track once or twice a year to spectate. if I go anymore than that I may get the itch lol


its cool you are making a kit available for the prelude guys to run the b series box. that will help the n/a prelude guys drasticly

 

Man I still remember how much my HS auto shop teacher hated when people did that lol. I can hear his voice in my head, "good luck getting that off if you get a flat tire at the 50 mile marker in Saskatchewan, Canada."

 

Ok guys its not worth the time it takes to type the proper response. Ill just make sure y'all dont work on my stuff, ever.

 

what did he want you to use instead?

impact guns are adjustable for a reason lol

i always hit my truck wheels a couple times @ full strength with the 1/2", but it can be turned down for smaller stuff.

i also used the 3/8" impact full strength for my lenso drag wheels. ends up somewhere around 80+ ft lbs. but @ the track you gotta use a good 1/2" cordless impact to get that

 

when you buy a brand new vehicle with factory warranty do you take it in to the dealer for your first couple free services and tire rotations? millions of people do and a their wheels never see a tq wrench

 

Never got around asking... but what did you do to the wrist pin location with the custom pistons with the H22 rod length, how much was it moved? Also beefier wrist pin used? Piston in the hole like normal? last question how much dinero?

Getting the specs from Don was nearly impossible. What i do know about the pistons or what he told me at least, they were pistons wiseco had on the shelf and he cut them down to clear the head. They sit in the hole .020" but i believe them to be the 7cc dome. The serial numbers were removed in the shaving process so its hard to know if he was telling me the truth. Rosko has a rod and piston of mine now and hes gonna measure it all and see if my compression is actually what he said it was and if it was a shelf piston or if the wrist pin was relocated higher.

 

He always made us use a torque wrench.

 

Your statement is too broad which makes it untrue. I have torque wrenches at work that are within 4% accuracy over a 200 lb ft range. A quality torque wrench should not have accuracy issues. Low quality ones, yes.





I agree about the second part.



And the shops that don't use some type of torque regulating device lead the industry in loose wheels. Just because places don't do it, doesn't mean it is the proper thing to do.

 

I seriously doubt loose wheels are a major problem. I don't know of any professional shop that doesn't have an adequate compressor and air tools to tq a set of lugnuts. if anything its overtightening that's the problem. a lot of aftertmarket wheels will warp when overtightened. wheel manufacturers usually provide a warning label with the wheels if they forsee a problem.

not sure what you consider quality, but I use snap-on tq wrenches which are calibrated on a regular basis. Rosko is correct, my snap-on wrenches are nowhere near accurate on the outer ranges of the scales. this is common knowledge in the tool industry. I have friends who are snap-on and matco dealers and they will confirm this to be the case. this is one reason they offer wrenches calibrated with different scaling.

same thing with a tire pressure gauge. if your only running 10 psi you need a low pressure gauge 0 to 20psi. opposite goes for heavy truck tires you need a high pressure gauge. and you wouldn't want to use either of those on a regular car tire which requires 32psi.

id like to see you use your 200 ft lb scale wrench on something like a cam cap bolt. most of us know how that would end. the preferable tool to use would be a small inch lb wrench.

and im sure you will be surprised to hear that guys who have been building engines and tqing bolts long enough develop a feel for it when it comes to 10-20 ft lbs. their favorite 3/8" hand ratchet is the tool of choice.

tq wrenches definitely have their place but just because every nut and bolt on your car has a tq spec doesn't mean they all should be tightened with a tq wrench.

 

guys, lets get away from this. its driving us a bit off topic.

just agree to disagree. Everyones got their own ways of doing things and I appreciate the comments/opinions. On the flywheel, i am a bit more comfortable using a torque wrench. This time around ill torque them to a higher spec using a higher range wrench and coat the threads in locktite.

oh lemme post the stuff i have for sale as well:

LOTS of stuff for sale here guys and i need it ALL gone to get the race car back to the track.

stock M2A4 transmission - $200
MFactory 5.15FD - $625
MFactory helical LSD - $600
- combine the FD and LSD for $1250 shipped anywhere in the lower 48
Innovative 85A mounts for 5th gen Prelude - $175
Competition Clutch H series Twin Disc (will come with a new flywheel) - $850
Forbidden Motorsports short shifter - $100
Kosei K1 16x7.5 wheels with KDW2 225/45 rubber - $600
Neuspeed Race springs on Koni Yellow Struts - $500
NRG race bucket with Wedge Engineering adjustable seat bracket - $200


The engine mounts/differential/FD/Clutch have less than 20 miles on them but about 30 track passes.

so here are the pictures







- For you 5th gen guys, i will sell the cables, shifter base and shifter for $225 shipped anywhere to the lower 48











This is the one that was part of the accident



Not that bad and could easily be fixed




unless posted, all prices are before shipping

 

B16 just about ready to be shipped to Chris @ whoopee doo racing!

I got the head combustion chamber opened up and im waiting to a chance to go up to the shop to cc the new volume so Rosko can finish up with the final touches on the piston design.

Sam @ SP GARAGE is sending me a crank once he gets around to it. Ill be measuring straightness once i get my hands and a dial on it.

I sold the H series LSD and now i can finally put my deposit down for the competition h2b twin thats on backorder through Kaizenspeed

Also got in contact with a chassis guy to put a 6pt cage in the car. That will happen sometime this summer as he is a bit back logged

Anyway, thats about it for now. Just waiting on things to sell so i can get it all the parts ordered. I'm going back to school to learn 3D design software, CNC programming and different levels of fabrication. Engineering graphics is my first class since 2008 so I'm a bit anxious lol.

 

why not go with the exedy twin disk rather than the cc which normally requires a clutch stop to be fabricated and adjusted?

I hate comp clutches lol. their single disks dont like to work properly at high rpm and their twins require you to fab a clutch stop. not that its a big deal but theres no need for that with exedy. id use the qsd cromoly flywheel spacer and arp bolts. that setup works flawlessly.

 

Hes right about that, have this setup on my h2b hatch clutch handles 10k rpm wot shifts on a stock tranny

 

i was under the impression the comp setup is designed for H2B and does not require a spacer, at least that is what Rosko runs with no issues and what was recommended to me by a few others as well. Ive loved all my comp clutches including the Comp twin i had for the h trans so i'll take that with a grain of salt but I will look into it. I know reid helped with the development of it.

 

it probably is designed to use with the h2b without a spacer. not sure on the pedal stop though.