DD/Drag B20V build
#1
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DD/Drag B20V build
*********New updates on page 30, new dyno sheet after switching to Pro 3's and a ported head 4/21/16********
*********NEW UPDATES W/ DYNO 11/7/15 ON PAGE 23***********************
*********THREAD UPDATED W/ DYNO VIDEO AND GRAPH ON PAGE 12. 3/31/15************
*********20-130 pull on page 23 **********
I've been talking about my build for about a year and a half now, car was stolen and semi-stripped so i rebuilt it and resumed where I left off, and I think I am to the point I can start a build thread about it. Not just a build thread for progress/pics, but also for discussions and ideas as I go about it. I have been very patient and have thought this build out A LOT (some users on here are probably sick of my asking questions based off their knowledge) but I am open to continuing to get new/different ideas until it's on the rollers.
This is a car I daily drive (40 miles a day or so) but will see trips to the strip as much as possible during the summer season. I have a truck parked at home as well, but just use this to keep the miles and gas low until I get my company vehicle. Once that happens this thing will more than likely sit in the garage and be basically just a race car. With that in mind, I don't race on the streets or to work, so I want to be fastest on the track...not to the next stop light. This build is what I consider a budget build w/ some extras, not a full blown break the bank build but not cheap as **** either.
So here it is...
84.5mm B20B block
89mm crank w/ stock PR4 rods and ARP hardware
ITR rep pistons (12:1-ish)
Full rotating assembly balanced (crank, rods, pistons, flywheel, pressure plate)
**still debating the pro products race damper**
GSR head- casting cleaned up and slight port work
Prodigy race engines Performance VJ
Stock intake valves & Ferrea 6000 exhaust valves
ST 100lb springs and Ti retainers
S2 LMA's
DDTECH stage 2 cams----Switched to Skunk2 Pro 2 cams 11/7/15---- switched to pro 3 cams 4/21/16
Real RMF drag header---switched to SSR big tube 11/7/15
VictorX intake w/ Omnipower 70mm TB
3.5" to 3" custom intake arm w/ V-stack and filter
Grams 320, Aeromotive FPR, AEM fuel Rail, RDX injectors (base pressure will be 50-60psi) Switched to ID1000's and E85 11/7/15
S4C/S80 tranny (ITR 1-3 GSR 4&5) w/ OEM ITR LSD and 4.785FD
Synchrotech carbon synchros
Exedy stage 1 clutch
Fidanza 7.5lb flywheel
Aiming for mid 12's in my 95 DX coupe. I'll get pics of some stuff up later.
Open to discussions about this build as a whole...again I have put huge amounts of time into reading, researching and studying but I am always open to more knowledge/ideas.
-Andy
*********NEW UPDATES W/ DYNO 11/7/15 ON PAGE 23***********************
*********THREAD UPDATED W/ DYNO VIDEO AND GRAPH ON PAGE 12. 3/31/15************
*********20-130 pull on page 23 **********
I've been talking about my build for about a year and a half now, car was stolen and semi-stripped so i rebuilt it and resumed where I left off, and I think I am to the point I can start a build thread about it. Not just a build thread for progress/pics, but also for discussions and ideas as I go about it. I have been very patient and have thought this build out A LOT (some users on here are probably sick of my asking questions based off their knowledge) but I am open to continuing to get new/different ideas until it's on the rollers.
This is a car I daily drive (40 miles a day or so) but will see trips to the strip as much as possible during the summer season. I have a truck parked at home as well, but just use this to keep the miles and gas low until I get my company vehicle. Once that happens this thing will more than likely sit in the garage and be basically just a race car. With that in mind, I don't race on the streets or to work, so I want to be fastest on the track...not to the next stop light. This build is what I consider a budget build w/ some extras, not a full blown break the bank build but not cheap as **** either.
So here it is...
84.5mm B20B block
89mm crank w/ stock PR4 rods and ARP hardware
ITR rep pistons (12:1-ish)
Full rotating assembly balanced (crank, rods, pistons, flywheel, pressure plate)
**still debating the pro products race damper**
GSR head- casting cleaned up and slight port work
Prodigy race engines Performance VJ
Stock intake valves & Ferrea 6000 exhaust valves
ST 100lb springs and Ti retainers
S2 LMA's
DDTECH stage 2 cams----Switched to Skunk2 Pro 2 cams 11/7/15---- switched to pro 3 cams 4/21/16
Real RMF drag header---switched to SSR big tube 11/7/15
VictorX intake w/ Omnipower 70mm TB
3.5" to 3" custom intake arm w/ V-stack and filter
Grams 320, Aeromotive FPR, AEM fuel Rail, RDX injectors (base pressure will be 50-60psi) Switched to ID1000's and E85 11/7/15
S4C/S80 tranny (ITR 1-3 GSR 4&5) w/ OEM ITR LSD and 4.785FD
Synchrotech carbon synchros
Exedy stage 1 clutch
Fidanza 7.5lb flywheel
Aiming for mid 12's in my 95 DX coupe. I'll get pics of some stuff up later.
Open to discussions about this build as a whole...again I have put huge amounts of time into reading, researching and studying but I am always open to more knowledge/ideas.
-Andy
Last edited by 93egSLEEPER; 05-04-2016 at 06:47 AM.
#2
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Re: DD/Drag B20V build
if this is going to see daily driving, i would suggest a gsr 5th gear on that s4c gearstack. it really is a nice mix of the too long ls and annoyingly close b16 5th gears.
you may want to look toward a gates blue or a greddy timing belt. ive stretched oem belts in the past i attribute to the spring seat pressure. went to a gates blue and have had no issues its been 2 years now
you may want to look toward a gates blue or a greddy timing belt. ive stretched oem belts in the past i attribute to the spring seat pressure. went to a gates blue and have had no issues its been 2 years now
#4
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Thread Starter
Re: DD/Drag B20V build
if this is going to see daily driving, i would suggest a gsr 5th gear on that s4c gearstack. it really is a nice mix of the too long ls and annoyingly close b16 5th gears.
you may want to look toward a gates blue or a greddy timing belt. ive stretched oem belts in the past i attribute to the spring seat pressure. went to a gates blue and have had no issues its been 2 years now
you may want to look toward a gates blue or a greddy timing belt. ive stretched oem belts in the past i attribute to the spring seat pressure. went to a gates blue and have had no issues its been 2 years now
I have the gates blue on the list. I've used them w/ all my builds with great luck
I know right? I'll get some pics up soon. All I have done so far is the short block and a pile of parts. I'm not the best computer guy either so I need to figure out how to attach them to HT
#5
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Re: DD/Drag B20V build
Here are a few pics I was able to load up.
The daily beater that will house the build
Just some pics of what's done and in store...will add more later
The daily beater that will house the build
Just some pics of what's done and in store...will add more later
#7
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Re: DD/Drag B20V build
I thought about buying that header but it looked rough under the coating. Hope it's decent and makes some power for you. That car is in wicked shape though, you don't see them at all anymore where I am let alone in that condition.
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#8
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Re: DD/Drag B20V build
Thanks. It is fairly clean. Has some door dings here and there, and the bumpers have some marks on them from the previous owner, but for a DD commuter it gets the job done. Not looking to build a show car, just a clean, plain and simple track car....at least for now lol
The header does have some rough spots beings it was mild steel and left unfinished, but the inside is fine. Has a TINY ding right after the merge, but not enough to disrupt the flow. I am going to wrap it up with Ti exhaust wrap anyhow. Not a fan of black ceramic-coat.
Here's a pic of it in the sun right after I finished rebuilding it from theft this spring. Stripped and hand polished the blades myself It doesn't sit that low anymore though. Took a clay bar and some good compound to the factory clear coat and paint and got it cleaned up pretty good. Picked it up for 1200 w/ a blown HG about 18 months ago.
Here's a pic of it in the sun right after I finished rebuilding it from theft this spring. Stripped and hand polished the blades myself It doesn't sit that low anymore though. Took a clay bar and some good compound to the factory clear coat and paint and got it cleaned up pretty good. Picked it up for 1200 w/ a blown HG about 18 months ago.
#9
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Thread Starter
Re: DD/Drag B20V build
Got some goodies in the mail today. 4.7FD kit. Got it for a STEAL BNIB from an old member off the forum
Some shitty pics of the cleanup/light port I did on the head. Nothing special. Small pockets and opened up the throats. Cleaned up the the opening and casting lines. Looks alot rougher in the pics than it is. Used 80 grit to finish it off.
Pro Products damper...
Exedy Racing Stage 1
Some shitty pics of the cleanup/light port I did on the head. Nothing special. Small pockets and opened up the throats. Cleaned up the the opening and casting lines. Looks alot rougher in the pics than it is. Used 80 grit to finish it off.
Pro Products damper...
Exedy Racing Stage 1
#12
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Thread Starter
Re: DD/Drag B20V build
I was looking at some wiseco slugs, but a buddy of mine had these sitting in his garage and gave them up for $100. Budget based build calls for taking up good deals
I want to play w/ a sleeved nitrous setup next...this will just get me by for the time being
It will be on Crome, at least to get it running and initially tuned. I plan on getting Hondata eventually.
I want to play w/ a sleeved nitrous setup next...this will just get me by for the time being
It will be on Crome, at least to get it running and initially tuned. I plan on getting Hondata eventually.
Last edited by 93egSLEEPER; 11-21-2014 at 06:40 AM.
#14
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Re: DD/Drag B20V build
My tuner said he doesn't like tuning neptune all that much. He prefers Crome or Hondata. I actually don't know a neptune tuner (well a tuner who like the neptune platform)in my area...
Last edited by 93egSLEEPER; 11-21-2014 at 10:31 PM.
#15
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Re: DD/Drag B20V build
I thought Crome and neptune were very similar, at least with the demon you can adjust what you want and run a few maps on the same tune. I don't know what I could get for it, if you feel you want to make an offer, throw me a pm
#18
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Re: DD/Drag B20V build
Thanks! It's been a work in progress since purchasing, then having it stolen, but it's come a long ways with some elbow grease. Not perfect, but like I say, I just want a simple, clean daily that will turn into a track car eventually. I like the OEM "sleeper" look.
I like some of the features Neptune has for sure...that is what initially attracted me to it over Hondata....especially the added security feature since cars in my area come up missing A LOT. The guy I plan on having tune my car will tune neptune, it's just not his favorite/first choice. Plus Crome is free. For me to buy neptune and have it installed is right at $500. PM me a price and I'll see where it falls in my budget.
#19
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Re: DD/Drag B20V build
Looking for some input**
For my fuel system I will be running a Walbro 255 for the pump, and will be doing the factory fuel filter delete w/ an inline filter and steel braided line. That brings me to the next point. The fuel rail and FPR. I was thinking about running an AEM rail w/ universal aeromotive FPR BUT I have also pondered the idea of running the ITR rail w/ the app specific aeromotive FPR and stainless return line. I've always run stock gear in the past and don't have any experience w/ aftermarket rails/FPR.
Thoughts?
For my fuel system I will be running a Walbro 255 for the pump, and will be doing the factory fuel filter delete w/ an inline filter and steel braided line. That brings me to the next point. The fuel rail and FPR. I was thinking about running an AEM rail w/ universal aeromotive FPR BUT I have also pondered the idea of running the ITR rail w/ the app specific aeromotive FPR and stainless return line. I've always run stock gear in the past and don't have any experience w/ aftermarket rails/FPR.
Thoughts?
#20
Re: DD/Drag B20V build
Do you plan on running nitrous? if so then going with the aem fuel rail is cool or if you want to run a FP gauge to it but you could just as easily get an adjustable FPR with a built in gauge. The stock ITR fuel rail as long as its in good shape is more then good enough to flow the RDX injectors up to 58PSi i believe but I seriously doubt you would need to run that much since at stock 44psi those flow like 400CC which on pump gas is more then enough to keep your build happy. I wouldn't see any reason to get the AEM unless you want it to look a certain way or want to run nitrous or were using injectors that wouldnt seat correctly into the fuel rail.
#21
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Re: DD/Drag B20V build
I may do nitrous in the future, but as of now it will have no power adders. I was just looking to see if one way was easier than another. I like the ability to mount the universal FPR pretty much anywhere, but if the app specific keeps it simple, I'd do that as well.
#22
Re: DD/Drag B20V build
Yeah stock should work just fine, the AEM is nice though, also if you do think you will go N20 then you have to decide if you would go Dry or Wet shot.....The victor X should have ports for N20 I believe so there is that. Like all things it comes down to what You want to do and how much You want to spend.
#23
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Re: DD/Drag B20V build
Yeah stock should work just fine, the AEM is nice though, also if you do think you will go N20 then you have to decide if you would go Dry or Wet shot.....The victor X should have ports for N20 I believe so there is that. Like all things it comes down to what You want to do and how much You want to spend.