lude98SH

Does anyone have actual graphs showing gains from switching from conventional to synthetic. Obviously there will be gains im just interested in how much, where in the rpm range and if gains are consistant throughout the rpm range ? Also how much different viscosities will affect power and if any brands may gain more than others for some reason. Also the same goes for switching from a honda mtf to a synthetic in the transmission.

lude98SH

bump

V3ND3TTA

IMO synthetic doesn't provide more power but better engine protection, I even use 90S for my stock CTR gearbox and it does work well with the LSD

junkyard racer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by V3ND3TTA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IMO synthetic doesn't provide more power but better engine protection, I even use 90S for my stock CTR gearbox and it does work well with the LSD</TD></TR></TABLE>

my thoughts as well. talking about it...I really dont know what to 'tell you' but after my experiences on synthetic oil in my honda, I would never run anything else.

V3ND3TTA

I can tell you my experince from my friend's 4AGE which still staying alive and running even the pistion gap for the rings are all cracked. Not all synthetic is good from my experince, some are garbage and I only use $100/4L synthetics now.

lude98SH

bump

FST GSR 1

I use Kendall GT1. It's cheap and good oil.

JDMCRX

iTrader: (2)

Every oil has its own groups eh. Some syn are group 5 and some 6. Some are for power other longivity. My friends dad is a petrolium engineer for like 30 years plus and synthetics are not all created equal. Castrol Syn is not a real full syn. It is a group 4 i believe its a refined group 3 oil which is just cleaned up a bit with some blend of syn in it. I remeber Mobil 1 took them to court yearsss ago about it.

Royal Purple may have alot of tv adds and so forth but its is a good oil from what i have seen in his reports. I run royal purple now in all my vehicles. From my car and truck to my dads 2500HD and you do notice a difference. Trany temps did drop 30-50deg. Also in -50 deg temps i notice the royal purple vs the syn gear oil in my diffs. In winter time when you run a convensional 75w90 in honda trannies you get prematuer main shaft bearing wear for one. For the first 10-15 min of driving in winter cold you get a dragging effect, feels like your towing a trailer.

Different viscosities do make a difference in power. Thin oil will alow you to make more power as it is thin. But when the heat builds up the thin oil can not coat metal fast enough.

Ill ask his dad this question and see what he says tomorrow.

lude98SH

bump

DonF

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Every oil has its own groups eh. Some syn are group 5 and some 6. Some are for power other longivity. My friends dad is a petrolium engineer for like 30 years plus and synthetics are not all created equal. Castrol Syn is not a real full syn. It is a group 4 i believe its a refined group 3 oil which is just cleaned up a bit with some blend of syn in it. I remeber Mobil 1 took them to court yearsss ago about it.

Royal Purple may have alot of tv adds and so forth but its is a good oil from what i have seen in his reports. I run royal purple now in all my vehicles. From my car and truck to my dads 2500HD and you do notice a difference. Trany temps did drop 30-50deg. Also in -50 deg temps i notice the royal purple vs the syn gear oil in my diffs. In winter time when you run a convensional 75w90 in honda trannies you get prematuer main shaft bearing wear for one. For the first 10-15 min of driving in winter cold you get a dragging effect, feels like your towing a trailer.

Different viscosities do make a difference in power. Thin oil will alow you to make more power as it is thin. But when the heat builds up the thin oil can not coat metal fast enough.

Ill ask his dad this question and see what he says tomorrow.</TD></TR></TABLE> What Honda gearboxes require 75w90? I think the last one i saw was in the early -late 70's.

blacK20

I've been wondering for the longest time. How do you tell if an oil is group4/5/6?

LastGenEK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DonF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> What Honda gearboxes require 75w90? I think the last one i saw was in the early -late 70's. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah thats pretty darn thick I use honda MTF in my brand new itr tranny and it pous in like water

Iv also used ATF and that worked great too (ONLY BECAUSE I WAS STANDED ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD IN SAN FRACISCO) It got me home

tegra2G

there was a thing in import tuner magazine about 3 months ago about this exact thing, the oil that made the most power with lowest temperature was eneos 0w30

vinuneuro

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DonF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> What Honda gearboxes require 75w90? I think the last one i saw was in the early -late 70's. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Not to mention a lot of gear oils aren't compatible with brass, bronze, etc.

Fat Chick Magnet

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Castrol Syn is not a real full syn.</TD></TR></TABLE>


I personally use castrol full synthetic in my ITR. I love it. Winter I use 5w30 and summer I use 10w40. When I used Mobil 1 full synthetic the car burned a bit more of oil then usual, but switching back to castrol It solved my problem. For some reason castrol oil stays cleaner then mobil 1 for good 1000 more miles before It starts to turn brown.

all-mtr-teg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DonF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> What Honda gearboxes require 75w90? I think the last one i saw was in the early -late 70's. </TD></TR></TABLE>

What Redline MTL do you reccomend? The MTL or MT-90? I was told to run the MT-90 on trannies with grinding gears?

N20civicB18

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all-mtr-teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What Redline MTL do you reccomend? The MTL or MT-90? I was told to run the MT-90 on trannies with grinding gears?</TD></TR></TABLE>

DO NOT USE MT-90, USE MTL.

I have not done any tests on Honda's but I have tuned several Mustangs and see as much as 15hp when switching all the fluids to Royal Purple but that is probably just due to the fact of the cars having old oil in them. On brand new mustangs I would see maybe 2-3hp.

tony413

what are you looking to use this oil for ?
racing
daily drive duty
cold weather
hot weather

oils are made for different purposes.
the only true synthetic oils i believe are amsoil, royal purple, and mobil 1. there are other but those are usually ordered online and most public places do not readily stock them.

alot of synthetic oils on the shelf are refined versions of a convential oil which is why you are able to blend them with convential oil. its all about the polymer chains

DonF

Or Synergyn, Torco, Cosworth, Joe Gibbs, Valvoline, Redline, Pennziol, etc. Oils can produce power, they can also increase wear. You need to pick what you want and the application. Non-friction additives increase BHP, but can lose longevity. The worst for BHP improvemts VS wear was Royal Purple, but that was a while ago when i did tests for them on the dyno. They may have improved. Synergyn, Cosworth, Torco, Valvoline Race, Red Line, Joe Gibbs. If you are serious.

all-mtr-teg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DonF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Or Synergyn, Torco, Cosworth, Joe Gibbs, Valvoline, Redline, Pennziol, etc. Oils can produce power, they can also increase wear. You need to pick what you want and the application. Non-friction additives increase BHP, but can lose longevity. The worst for BHP improvemts VS wear was Royal Purple, but that was a while ago when i did tests for them on the dyno. They may have improved. Synergyn, Cosworth, Torco, Valvoline Race, Red Line, Joe Gibbs. If you are serious.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I came across this article a while back, any idea why the torco viscosity loss was significantly higher? Is that just a property of the oil, for example it isn't intented for a daily driver? So based on this test, would the mobile 5w50 be the best choice for a daily driver?
http://www.performanceoilnews....shtml

tony413

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all-mtr-teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I came across this article a while back, any idea why the torco viscosity loss was significantly higher? Is that just a property of the oil, for example it isn't intented for a daily driver? So based on this test, would the mobile 5w50 be the best choice for a daily driver?
http://www.performanceoilnews....shtml</TD></TR></TABLE>

30 to 50 weight oils are ok for daily driving. the 5W part is just the winter visocity rating

DonF

Not really, oil temp basically tells you the viscosity you need. Street cars do not get that high. Race cars do.

all-mtr-teg

So for those on a budget, the mobil 5w50 is the most economical choice?

Fat Chick Magnet

I once used 15w50 mobil 1 and i dumped it out after 500 miles.. horrible.

I think IMO (DonF) is 5w30/10w30.

0Bisimoto

Not all oils are created equally, and there are power gains when upgrading from an organic oil to a proper synthetic one. I have quite a bit of data, and personal experience. These may help a bit: