EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

Smoothed the casting marks and some peaks and valleys in the intake




then went to the exhaust and sanded down the casting marks and blended the ports to match the header.

Even tho its a bad pic, its smooth as a baby ***.


I know FrankAcura says to do the bowl work, but im not ballin like that.


Also did a hone to the walls

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

UPDATE:

Talked to the machine shop today. They said the YCP pistons were .04" taller then the P3F pistons. Which is 1.016mm so that means the comp height is now 30.06mm

Cliffs:

YCP piston 84mm compression height - 30.06 mm

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

just picked them up

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

You should cc them before you load em.

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

im quite positive the 1.3cc is accurate

darnizzle8805

iTrader: (1)

did you shotpeen your rods? i never have but many people say to do it

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

i did not, only cause i didnt when i was on boost and rods were fine.

This build is making less power then my boosted b20.. I only got the ARP and rods resized cuse I will be revving to 7800 area. I only reved to 7k when i was boosted. The cam followers can only handle so much, so im not going to push them farther then its limits.

If you want to send them to Crower for shotpeening, theyre 10-15 per rod.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Any decent machine shop should be able to do it. 10-15 a rod sounds about right.

It's definitely a good thing to do if you're building to a T, but really not necessary.

darnizzle8805

iTrader: (1)

I am not interested in doing it. I was just curious because I have seen it posted a time or two, just seeing his rods made it come to mind is all.

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

Thx for the Ring help Spadam.. Pistons are now installed. ill take a pic soon..

I hope the rings didnt rotate on me

DJBLUEB20

Hey guys,

Great forum. But I noticed no one was doing much info on the results of using different Transmissions. Also, I am specifically doing a B20b in my ek and was originally using a LS tranny, but decided to go with a b16 instead. The B16 tranny bolt holes aren't all lining up only the top two ones. Any remarks/suggestions?

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

I use the LS trans..

Since i have more torque with the B20, the longer gearing works better for me.

others like shorter gears..

IDK why the trans isnt matching up

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Yeah there is absolutely no reason why that trans should not bolt up. There is only one b-series bolt pattern.

I'm using a '00 gs-r trans. I really like it with this motor, even though 5th could stand to be a tad longer. I think the b16 gears would just be too close, there is really no point in having a motor with a nice broad power band and super close gears.

I bet an ls trans with a gs-r/b16 final drive would be pretty good too.

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

^^

It would for racing, but for highway driving, im quite happy sitting at 3k while doing 70mph

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I could happily go for a 3-400 rpm drop at highway speed. I'm at around 3500 at 70. I do like that I can stick it in 5th at 40 and drive around town no problem though.

In other news, the tune is really starting to come together. I got my first 300 mile tank today, 29.16 mpg avg. So close to my goal of 30 avg.! Next tank should be better. Once I get the part throttle/cruise stuff dialed in I can start on full throttle. I can't wait!

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

oh werd!

DJBLUEB20

Thanks for the input guys. Okay, here is the kicker that might make a difference and make all ya'll go, "why the hell would you do that", but here it is. It is an, yes it exists from JDMENGINEDEPOT.com, it is a 92-93 B16a AUTOMATIC transmission. Could this be why the bolt pattern isn't matching up?

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Nope. Still has to bolt to a b-series engine, still should have the same pattern.

DJBLUEB20

Thats what I thought. That is the recommended tranny for an EK AUTO car, because of the size. But when we were lining it up it only the first top ones on either side were good not the others, like the two holes that are close together on the radiator side. I will try to take pics to see if that will help with a solution. Anyway, if the LS tranny fits good wouldn't that be better than a B16 being the B16 has shorter gears?

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

It's not that the gears are shorter, it's that they are so close together. I don't know anything about the automatics though, I'm assuming it's a 4-speed and will most likely have longer/wider spaced gears.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

I was thinking about this transmission discussion, and realized that I had a useful tool to describe the real effects of changing transmissions. I input a full throttle pull into both columns on VDR, the only differences between the plots is the gear ratio. "Base Pull" is with third gear on the GS-R trans, which was a real pull. The "Comparison Pull" was calculated using the third gear ratio of the LS trans. Working backwards from the plot, what this implies is that it would take about 30ft-lbf more torque across the board in order to accelerate the car at the same rate with the LS trans! Really interesting stuff.



Here's another, same acceleration data but b16 trans vs LS w/ 4.4 final drive:

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

30lbs more.. not too bad.. but when the B20 has 30-50 more lbs of torque over the vtec brethren, its almost equally matched..

**Also,I got my best numbers with my LS using 4th gear pulls

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

I'm sure I could get better numbers in fourth, but I'm currently street tuning on a nice straight level stretch of empty road and I'm not willing to do fourth pulls. Not super concerned with number anyway, just getting it running properly.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

In other news, I adjusted my valves today and it screwed up my tune. They were pretty loose, but that's to be expected a few k after a fresh head.

lzylst

iTrader: (1)

In what way did the valve adjustment affect the tune? I would presume in your case it leaned out the fuel.