DelSolDon

I currently have a obd1 jdm b16a and have recently read that I can swap in b17 crank and rods to raise compression. I did a search, but couldn't find an exact answer. I know that if I use LS rods and crank, I have to get specially designed pistons, but since the b16 and the b17 share the same block casting just different strokes, what pistons should I use? Can I re-use my b16 pistons (of course replacing rings)? What wrist pins, etc. should I use? Lastly, is this worth it considering I have a stock head?

DelSolDon

c'mon folks let's hear what info u got

RagingAngel

Something that would be easiest for you to drop in would be to use the P30 pistons SiRII EG6.......

and then use the 17A rods and crank.

Done like dinner.

DelSolDon

pretty sure i already have the p30 pistons in my motor now, right? obd1 jdm b16a.

DelSolDon

bump

NJIN BUILDR

The b17 cranks are kind of hard to find.If your looking to just raise your com. ratio an aftermarket piston would be a better choice.
Glenn

topspeed86

I used a 1.7 crank and rods in a 1.6 block with CTR pistons nice setup

DelSolDon

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by topspeed86 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I used a 1.7 crank and rods in a 1.6 block with CTR pistons nice setup </TD></TR></TABLE>
i thought i read the ctr pistons will sit too high on the rods causing clearance problems on the upstroke. i could have been confused (also been reading about LS rods in b16). how long have you had this setup and was it worth the time and $$$? i would do the aftermarket piston, but i think i can find the crank and rods for cheaper. for some reason there are quite a few 92-93 gsr's around cincy. can anybody tell me if i will just end up with a b17, or is the b16 head better?

respectblades

well you can get custom pistons to make up for the clearance issues
what you need to do is talk to an engine builder that can set up a nice high reving stroker kit

i'm considering do a similar setup

only i want to run either an ls crank or gsr 1.8l crank in a b16a and have it sleeved to 84 mm
i want as close to 2L as possible

DelSolDon

yea, i've read about the special pistons. i'm just trying to do this cheap. there is a guy i know that i can get a used crank and 3 rods, then i'll just use my pistons. after that, all i should have to buy is rings, bearings, probably arp rod bolts, a new head gasket, and a new main oil seal. anybody think i should put a sleeve guard in while i'm in there, or is it a waste of $$$? i can re-use my head studs right? they are arp studs with maybe 6k miles on them.

K-Drum

as long as you use the B17 crank and Pistons there is no issue. they will bolt in no problem.

I have a B16 crank & rods in a B17 block, the casting is virtualy identical.

using the b17 block might be something worth looking in because you get the oilcooler too.

Hybrid96EK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by K-Drum &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">as long as you use the B17 crank and Pistons there is no issue. they will bolt in no problem.

I have a B16 crank & rods in a B17 block, the casting is virtualy identical.

using the b17 block might be something worth looking in because you get the oilcooler too.</TD></TR></TABLE>

So pull the oil cooler off and put it on the B16 block. That would just be lame if you ask me since it would be labeled as a 1.7l and in reality, a 1.6l. And BTW, not only is the block casting "virtually" identical, it IS identical.

BryanPendleton

Just replaced my shot B16 shortblock with a brand new OEM Honda B17 Shortblock assembly. I couldn't find any differences in block casting, and I got a nice oil cooler too.

K-Drum

there are slight Differences between the B17 block and the (the first gen at least) B16.



this is a B16 head gasket on a B17 Block, notic that it not quite the correct one (it will work) however it should be using a GSR head gasket.

Hybrid96EK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by K-Drum &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there are slight Differences between the B17 block and the (the first gen at least) B16.

this is a B16 head gasket on a B17 Block, notic that it not quite the correct one (it will work) however it should be using a GSR head gasket.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, that sure is interesting considering they all use a head gasket with the same P30 part number. Even the GSR.

K-Drum

b16 block

I might be wrong about the Headgasket but i thought i saw a B17/B18C specific gasket once.

However I KNOW the B16 cast is not the exact same as the B17 or vice versa.

that pic comes from this auction http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...sting


Modified by K-Drum at 9:29 PM 2/28/2005

NJIN BUILDR

They are both PR-3 castings.They just stamp the block B17a insted or B16a.I've sleeved them both,they both take the same sleeves.
Glenn

Jasper_db1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by K-Drum &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">However I KNOW the B16 cast is not the exact same as the B17 or vice versa.</TD></TR></TABLE>

As stated, they're both PR3 castings. Every B16 block looks just like every B17 block I've seen with the exception of the model stamp.

Point out the differences.

My B17a with PCT pistons:

slofu

shameless plug: i have a nice B17 crank- never spun a bearing, needs no polishing or grinding. $250.

Hybrid96EK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slofu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">shameless plug: i have a nice B17 crank- never spun a bearing, needs no polishing or grinding. $250.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wow. If someone wants a crank, that is a KILLER price for a B17 crank.

DelSolDon

and where might you be located @ slofu?

FIGARILA

iTrader: (1)

yes slofu where you at??? :crosses fingers hoping he's in So Cal:

Hybrid96EK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by K-Drum &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
b16 block

I might be wrong about the Headgasket but i thought i saw a B17/B18C specific gasket once.

However I KNOW the B16 cast is not the exact same as the B17 or vice versa.

that pic comes from this auction http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...sting

The casting of the block is identical. This has been stated many times.


Modified by K-Drum at 9:29 PM 2/28/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>

rjay8604

I bought my b17 crank from slofu, good seller. The crank was in great shape.

I have a b16 stroked with a b17 crank and sleeved to 85mm. The b17 rods are shorter by .082 B16 = 5.290, B17 = 5.208. I actually use b16 rods (eagle's) but my pistons have a custom compression height (-.082 of course) for the correct piston-to-deck height. You can use the b17 rods and crank together or the b16 rods and crank together but you cannot mix them. The b17a pistons would actually cause you to lose compression. P30's are the way to go. But buy some new one's. They aren't that much. I think around $200 with rings.

squarepants

I ALSO DID THIS SWAP.. b16A BLOCK WITH B17 CRANK,RODS AND CTR PISTONS...STOCK B16A HEAD WITH PORTFLOW INNERS AND RETAINERS
WITH A TYPE R INTAKE MANIFOLD AND T/B...WITH RS MACHINE CAMS..WITH A TODA HEADER AND GREDDY PE EXHAUST.
iLOVED THAT COMBO, IT REVVED FOREVER... IT DYNOED, WHAT I THINK WAS PRETTY GOOD WITH POWER STEERING, 185.3HP/123TQ TO THE WHEELS@ 9200 RPMS... THAT THING DID NOT STOP REVVING.... i USED A SKUNK2 CHIPPED P28 WITH A VAFC 2 ...I HAD LOTS OF FUN WITH THAT COMBO.. I HAD IT IN MY 92 BLUE SI HATCH BEATER... IT MET ITS MAKER WHEN THE WRIT PIN IN CYL. 2 CAME OUT AND MESSED UP THE SLEEVE.. I LATER FOUND OUT THE MACHINE SHOP HEATED THE PIN END OF THE RODS WHEN THEY PRESSED THE PISTONS ON.. WHEN I TOOK IT APART THEY WERE ALL DISCOLORED REAL BAD AND SLIGHTLY WARPED..IT ONLY LASTED TWO WEEKS, BUT IT WAS GREAT..
i STILL HAVE THE SHORT BLOCK BUT ITS ON HOLD NOW.. I HAVE MY RED ALLMOTOR HATCH TO WORRY ABOUT WITH A 2.1L BUILD UP..