b16a all motor build
#1
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b16a all motor build
so i am currently rebuilding my b16 after a oil pump faliure and i have a couple questions
specs
97 jdm b16a
-81.5 p30 nippion pistons
-arp rod and head bolts
-n1 crank pulley(i know no one give me **** please)
-super tech race flat valves(the more expensive ones)
-steel retainers with 75lbs dual valve springs
-balanced botton end
-static balanced rocker arms
-ported head(i just smoothed the corners and smoothed the ports and the combustion chamber noting crazy)
-steel retainers
-stock b16 cams
so my few questions about this build is the upper part of the vtec solenoid there is a little puck with a hole that moves around. im changing the gasket up there so how do you position that when you put it together or does it even matter. i know my compression is going to be raised slightly as the head and block might be milled slightly but not past 10 thousands. so i can compensate with a slightly thicker head gasket right? should i go 81.5 or 82 mm headgasket. will i need a custom basemap or will it start up safely or will a crome jdm b16 basemap work. do i need a wideband for startup because my car is in my bosses way and im on a crinch for money. last thing how will it fair in smog if nox isnt messured and i have a ca lega cat and a **** ebay hiflow right after.thanks guys for the help.
specs
97 jdm b16a
-81.5 p30 nippion pistons
-arp rod and head bolts
-n1 crank pulley(i know no one give me **** please)
-super tech race flat valves(the more expensive ones)
-steel retainers with 75lbs dual valve springs
-balanced botton end
-static balanced rocker arms
-ported head(i just smoothed the corners and smoothed the ports and the combustion chamber noting crazy)
-steel retainers
-stock b16 cams
so my few questions about this build is the upper part of the vtec solenoid there is a little puck with a hole that moves around. im changing the gasket up there so how do you position that when you put it together or does it even matter. i know my compression is going to be raised slightly as the head and block might be milled slightly but not past 10 thousands. so i can compensate with a slightly thicker head gasket right? should i go 81.5 or 82 mm headgasket. will i need a custom basemap or will it start up safely or will a crome jdm b16 basemap work. do i need a wideband for startup because my car is in my bosses way and im on a crinch for money. last thing how will it fair in smog if nox isnt messured and i have a ca lega cat and a **** ebay hiflow right after.thanks guys for the help.
#2
Honda-Tech Member
Re: b16a all motor build
OEM headgasket bore is 81.5mm and it will work with that oversize, just check that your gasket bore lines up perfectly with cylinder. And because this is still basically stock engine, I think JDM P30 basemap should be fine. Maybe slightly fine tune to fuel maps, which is normal because every engine is a individual.
#3
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Re: b16a all motor build
im also reading a first gen b16 manual and its telling me to use 10w 30 for the weather im living in but when i read a bunch of forum post people say 5w30 is fine. 10w 30 and 5w30 are the same at operating temps? should i run 10w30 like the manual said or 5w30, the manual says 10w30 because of diffrent oil quality in 91 i.e. more zinc???
#4
Honda-Tech Member
Re: b16a all motor build
Oils like 0w30 or 5w30 weren't popular options at the time the manual was written. 5w30 is fine, personally I'd stick to 10w30 though, especially if you live in a typically warm climate.
Zinc content has nothing to do with viscosity.
The basemap will be fine to run and idle the car off of but I'd recommend a tune if you intend to get the most out of your car, and want to make it last. You've made some changes to the valvetrain, are running oversized pistons, and have made a slight bump in compression by milling the head and running flat valves. You should get it tuned, the engine is no longer stock.
Zinc content has nothing to do with viscosity.
The basemap will be fine to run and idle the car off of but I'd recommend a tune if you intend to get the most out of your car, and want to make it last. You've made some changes to the valvetrain, are running oversized pistons, and have made a slight bump in compression by milling the head and running flat valves. You should get it tuned, the engine is no longer stock.
#5
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Re: b16a all motor build
Oils like 0w30 or 5w30 weren't popular options at the time the manual was written. 5w30 is fine, personally I'd stick to 10w30 though, especially if you live in a typically warm climate.
Zinc content has nothing to do with viscosity.
The basemap will be fine to run and idle the car off of but I'd recommend a tune if you intend to get the most out of your car, and want to make it last. You've made some changes to the valvetrain, are running oversized pistons, and have made a slight bump in compression by milling the head and running flat valves. You should get it tuned, the engine is no longer stock.
Zinc content has nothing to do with viscosity.
The basemap will be fine to run and idle the car off of but I'd recommend a tune if you intend to get the most out of your car, and want to make it last. You've made some changes to the valvetrain, are running oversized pistons, and have made a slight bump in compression by milling the head and running flat valves. You should get it tuned, the engine is no longer stock.
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