Anyone had this problem after an align hone....
#27
Re: (MARVNVRAM)
No, cheaper alternative than a new block. Think real hard. The answer is in front of you and not on some fancy internet site authored by know-nothings who can write a whole lotta "facts."
Hint: Two part soloution:
1. What does a piece of wood do in the ocean?
2. If you get #1. you can prolly guess # 2.
I guess the fool proof solution woud be another good block but this would be a cheaper way and just as good if the align-hone is good.
Hint: Two part soloution:
1. What does a piece of wood do in the ocean?
2. If you get #1. you can prolly guess # 2.
I guess the fool proof solution woud be another good block but this would be a cheaper way and just as good if the align-hone is good.
#28
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I spoke to a GE rep and its actually just better to get a GE block. I'll actually save time and money than finding another block, sending it out to get sleeves, etc. It just sucks having a set-back like this. Its almost been 2 years building this thing so I can wait another month or two.
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Re: (Master of the Universe)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Master of the Universe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1. What does a piece of wood do in the ocean?
I guess the fool proof solution woud be another good block but this would be a cheaper way and just as good if the align-hone is good.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So are you suggesting some kind of floating oil pump and transmission alignment solution? The problem, it seems to me, would be harmonics if the alignment was not dead nuts on. VTEC blocks typically rev past 8,000 RPM. Oil pump gears have been known to shatter, and transmission bearings do not take kindly to vibration either.
I guess the fool proof solution woud be another good block but this would be a cheaper way and just as good if the align-hone is good.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So are you suggesting some kind of floating oil pump and transmission alignment solution? The problem, it seems to me, would be harmonics if the alignment was not dead nuts on. VTEC blocks typically rev past 8,000 RPM. Oil pump gears have been known to shatter, and transmission bearings do not take kindly to vibration either.
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Re: (Master of the Universe)
As far as floating the part by pulling the dowels and letting the seal center the part that is fine for the rear main seal,and maybe the oil pump.I'm not sure I like to depend on the seal concentricity to line up the oil pump.But that is not going to help with the transmission.The transmission will tolerate more misalignment than the oil pump but it does have it's limits.I think correcting the dowel location is a better long term solution.
#34
Re: (NJIN BUILDR)
Do you not understand that's basically what I am saying? Do you know that the input shaft on the tranny "floats". Do you know that the oil pump center gear floats over the crank?
Where are the best and the brightest? In Mexico?
Where are the best and the brightest? In Mexico?
#35
Re: (Master of the Universe)
Thinking performance wise this block is garbage. Only good for a replacement engine for an Integra at a wholesale auction.
P-T-D is most likely "slanted." Loose timing belt, retarded timing, etc.
P-T-D is most likely "slanted." Loose timing belt, retarded timing, etc.
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Re: (Master of the Universe)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Master of the Universe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Do you know that the input shaft on the tranny "floats". Do you know that the oil pump center gear floats over the crank?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, but what are the tolerances? If the oil pump is off by 1/2" is it going to self-center? How much can it be off center before problems start occurring?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Master of the Universe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thinking performance wise this block is garbage. Only good for a replacement engine for an Integra at a wholesale auction.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Finally something you are saying that makes sense!
Yes, but what are the tolerances? If the oil pump is off by 1/2" is it going to self-center? How much can it be off center before problems start occurring?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Master of the Universe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thinking performance wise this block is garbage. Only good for a replacement engine for an Integra at a wholesale auction.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Finally something you are saying that makes sense!
#38
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Re: (Master of the Universe)
The op has obviously exceeded the limits of the "float' in the oil pump.I don't know why you think that correcting a problem is a bad idea.This correction is not necessary on a block that only has a thou or two of centerline change.But if you can't turn the crank after installing the pump than you need to correct the problem.The solution I'm suggesting is actually very simple and accurate.It really is sad how cynical you have become.
#39
Re: (NJIN BUILDR)
Cynical?
Tell me how much can be ground off? Grinding off more than 0.008 would toastify the caps.
I am tired of seeing fuckding fools talk like geniuses. It's every, here there everywhere. People posing like real deal people. Even occurs it the "holy" speedtalk forum. Everybody trying to sound more than what they are. If you are just a tweaker just accept it. No need to put a magnifying glass on your dick and think you are John Holmes.
Anyways, my cheap solution is to 1) remove the dowel pin and float the rear main and oil pump and then 2) get some dowel pins and corresponding drill bit and drill, install and tap in.
Done, now you have a fixed piece of shiatt, you can rev and blow.
Tell me how much can be ground off? Grinding off more than 0.008 would toastify the caps.
I am tired of seeing fuckding fools talk like geniuses. It's every, here there everywhere. People posing like real deal people. Even occurs it the "holy" speedtalk forum. Everybody trying to sound more than what they are. If you are just a tweaker just accept it. No need to put a magnifying glass on your dick and think you are John Holmes.
Anyways, my cheap solution is to 1) remove the dowel pin and float the rear main and oil pump and then 2) get some dowel pins and corresponding drill bit and drill, install and tap in.
Done, now you have a fixed piece of shiatt, you can rev and blow.
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Re: (Master of the Universe)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Master of the Universe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Tell me how much can be ground off? Grinding off more than 0.008 would toastify the caps.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That is my point. I threw out 1/2" to exaggerate, but there is a point at which the mains are so far out of alignment that there is no saving the block. The crank center has moved up too far. I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but machine shops do make mistakes.
That is my point. I threw out 1/2" to exaggerate, but there is a point at which the mains are so far out of alignment that there is no saving the block. The crank center has moved up too far. I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but machine shops do make mistakes.
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Re: (Combustion Contraption)
drill out the pilot hole in the flywheel and then the clutch will give alittle....tranny should work out
#43
Re: (alterdcreations)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alterdcreations »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">drill out the pilot hole in the flywheel and then the clutch will give alittle....tranny should work out</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think you forgot about the $1.00 pilot bearing. Where does that go now?
I think you forgot about the $1.00 pilot bearing. Where does that go now?
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Re: (MARVNVRAM)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Master of the Universe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I think you forgot about the $1.00 pilot bearing. Where does that go now?</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats funny...the older accord flywheels didn't have one but the newer h shuff does.
might not be needed
I think you forgot about the $1.00 pilot bearing. Where does that go now?</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats funny...the older accord flywheels didn't have one but the newer h shuff does.
might not be needed
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