DC5 Setting up for road race
02-19-2010, 08:11 PM
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Re: DC5 Setting up for road race
EP3/DC5 Suspension Sticky might be a good read (though I'm sure you've read it already).
https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-rsx-dc5-honda-civic-ep3-32/ep3-dc5-suspension-tuning-basics-faqs-told-mustclime-2639666/
https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-rsx-dc5-honda-civic-ep3-32/ep3-dc5-suspension-tuning-basics-faqs-told-mustclime-2639666/
02-19-2010, 09:44 PM
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Re: DC5 Setting up for road race
Also go the track and check out some other peoples cars and ask for advice! If they are cool they would probably help a fellow racer out.
02-20-2010, 01:33 PM
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Also, look into stiffening up with motor mount of some sort, cuz I heard RH/exhaust sometimes cause the THUD underneath when torque hits. GL with your upgrade!!!
02-20-2010, 03:24 PM
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Re: DC5 Setting up for road race
I've blown up a turbo F series, turbo B series and K20Z1... All truthfully have run me about the same to replace. lol
You just have to look for a good deal. But don't let fears hold anything back for having fun and starting something great. Cars a huge hobby for me and a peace of mind. They give me something better to do and keep me from causing troubles other ways. They have fixed my old drinking problem. My .02$
don't fear breaking. Use it for an excuse to upgrade and go bigger.
02-21-2010, 09:17 PM
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Re: DC5 Setting up for road race
you can find k20a with LSD equiped 6 sp tranny for much less than 8k. when i was shopping for swap k-series, I found a few around 5.5k ish with pretty low miles on them and they looked to be from legit seller. Unless you're in a hurry for a swap, just look around and you'll def. find something less than 8k
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02-21-2010, 09:42 PM
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Re: DC5 Setting up for road race
DC5s make a great car for circuit racing IMO, the fact that they are much newer than the older B series chassis really shows in reliability. All the B series guys I know seem to be fixing their cars constantly, I would much rather be on the track.
As others have said the DC5 gearbox is a little sensitive and seems to be very hard on oils. I just use OEM MTF and change it every track day. Over 2000 track kms with no issues so far. I try not to smash gear changes either, I figure there is more speed to be found in other areas of my driving technique that aren't so hard on my car.
The suspension geometry front and rear are the main issues in the DC5 chassis compared to the older cars. The front has crappy camber gain like any Macpherson strut along with very interesting bump steer characteristics at any height apart from stock. The rear has a very poor motion ratio to the spring/shock so very high spring and damper rates are necessary.
My advice would be to start with a rear spring nearly twice the rate of the front, a decent amount of static negative camber at the front and then go from there. I run 14kg/mm front and 24kg/mm rear and I find I could do with a bit more spring at both ends but I am limited by poor dampers.
The other things you suggest sound good, the brakes should work well with the right pad and fluid. Oh and as mentioned above, the DC5 engine mounts are poor and won't hold up to circuit use unless you are very gentle.
Are you in New Zealand? 
As others have said the DC5 gearbox is a little sensitive and seems to be very hard on oils. I just use OEM MTF and change it every track day. Over 2000 track kms with no issues so far. I try not to smash gear changes either, I figure there is more speed to be found in other areas of my driving technique that aren't so hard on my car.
The suspension geometry front and rear are the main issues in the DC5 chassis compared to the older cars. The front has crappy camber gain like any Macpherson strut along with very interesting bump steer characteristics at any height apart from stock. The rear has a very poor motion ratio to the spring/shock so very high spring and damper rates are necessary.
My advice would be to start with a rear spring nearly twice the rate of the front, a decent amount of static negative camber at the front and then go from there. I run 14kg/mm front and 24kg/mm rear and I find I could do with a bit more spring at both ends but I am limited by poor dampers.
The other things you suggest sound good, the brakes should work well with the right pad and fluid. Oh and as mentioned above, the DC5 engine mounts are poor and won't hold up to circuit use unless you are very gentle.
you can find k20a with LSD equiped 6 sp tranny for much less than 8k. when i was shopping for swap k-series, I found a few around 5.5k ish with pretty low miles on them and they looked to be from legit seller. Unless you're in a hurry for a swap, just look around and you'll def. find something less than 8k
New Zealand = i wanna visit!!!
02-22-2010, 12:15 PM
#10
I said I don't want a title!
Re: DC5 Setting up for road race
As others have said the DC5 gearbox is a little sensitive and seems to be very hard on oils. I just use OEM MTF and change it every track day. Over 2000 track kms with no issues so far. I try not to smash gear changes either, I figure there is more speed to be found in other areas of my driving technique that aren't so hard on my car.
The suspension geometry front and rear are the main issues in the DC5 chassis compared to the older cars. The front has crappy camber gain like any Macpherson strut along with very interesting bump steer characteristics at any height apart from stock. The rear has a very poor motion ratio to the spring/shock so very high spring and damper rates are necessary.
My advice would be to start with a rear spring nearly twice the rate of the front, a decent amount of static negative camber at the front and then go from there. I run 14kg/mm front and 24kg/mm rear and I find I could do with a bit more spring at both ends but I am limited by poor dampers.
The other things you suggest sound good, the brakes should work well with the right pad and fluid. Oh and as mentioned above, the DC5 engine mounts are poor and won't hold up to circuit use unless you are very gentle.
One thing to add--DO NOT lower the car too much. You'll want to lower only about 1" max from stock. Any more and the geometry issues become compounded.
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