Hey everyone... new to this site, so hello. I have a question regarding stroke kits for the B18C5:
I noticed more and more people are going with the b20 setup, wether it is all-motor vtec or b20 turbo. I currently have a bone stock B18C5. I was looking at http://www.crower.com and they seem to have a stroker kit for the b18C series motor that goes all the way up to 2.3L--

My question is, what would the advantage be for going with a 2.3L?? I am looking to do an all motor set-up with stageII cams, valvetrain upgrade, 11.5:1 pistons, headers, exhaust, lighten fly wheel, racing pullies, etc...

This is my daily driven car, so I would like to run higher compression, but good 'ol California gas maxes out at 91octane... so 11.5:1 pistons are as high as I can get.

Need some help please. I want to start building my engine out ASAP.

The truth be known: I went out to the local races in the Santa Clara area (Santa Clara, Milipitas, Bowers Ave, etc) and this damn CRX with a fully built b20vtec killed me. Normally I wouldn't mind, but this guy talks some ****. So I just want to shovel his **** right back into his mouth

Thanks

 

I hope you have a unlimited budget cause to build any high HP motor is going to cost alot.

 

I didn't know you could bore a B18 block out to 87mm

 

even if you could....have fun getting pistons for it.

 

SBC pistons

 

get a custom intake manifold, cam gears, injectors, hondata complete setup tuned on the dyno and street, then a hytech or smsp header with full exhaust.

get some lighter seats, take out misc crap in the back of your car. and then add some sticky tires. you will be a at least a full second faster off your 1/4 mile prolly more

should be around 200whp wiht the right tuner

no need to rebuild your motor if its already fine

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bob-DC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no need to rebuild your motor if its already fine</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good point

Or you could run a 100-shot, beat your friend (whilst destroying the motor ) and rebuilt at your leisure

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bob-DC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get a custom intake manifold, cam gears, injectors, hondata complete setup tuned on the dyno and street, then a hytech or smsp header with full exhaust.

get some lighter seats, take out misc crap in the back of your car. and then add some sticky tires. you will be a at least a full second faster off your 1/4 mile prolly more

should be around 200whp wiht the right tuner

no need to rebuild your motor if its already fine</TD></TR></TABLE>

JDM fd and light fw too, that's another half second or so.

 

If you're going to replace the FD, why only get a JDM? I've been VERY pleased with my ATS FD and it's not that much more than a JDM FD.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 01ytr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... this damn CRX with a fully built b20vtec killed me. </TD></TR></TABLE>

He <u>should</u> have killed you, and I'm sure he has a few thousand in the motor unless he owns his own fully equipped shop.

You shouldn't think that your stock ITR should keep up with a light CRX with a built 2.0, and you shouldn't worry that it can't.

You can get a hell of a lot of help here, in Tech and in the Allmotor Forum about how to build your motor to beat that CRX, but be prepared for a lot of headaches and downtime, and be prepared to spend some money.

In case you can't guess, I'm not entirely in favour of your building a car up just because a built CRX beat you in a drag race. If you need to be beating built CRX 2.0's in the quarter mile, it might be less headache to start with a different car in the first place.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it might be less headache to start with a different car in the first place.</TD></TR></TABLE>

LS1 + 100 shot = 12's

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fat Bradstard &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you're going to replace the FD, why only get a JDM? I've been VERY pleased with my ATS FD and it's not that much more than a JDM FD.</TD></TR></TABLE>

do you have a 2.3 l stroked motor? do you have any idea what the implications are?

 

just go with 2.1litr or 2.2 litr.. no need to bore that much..

ok if you wanna build your motor, get the eagle stroker kit from importparts.com, theya re 1750. now send you block to benson. and get a deck plate put on it.. reassemble after 2500 dollars later.. your ready for that crx

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

LS1 + 100 shot = 12's </TD></TR></TABLE>

an ITR with 100 shot can go 12's , LS1 with 100 shot should go much wuicker thwn that

 

my car=12's

 

see my sig

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Splat &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I didn't know you could bore a B18 block out to 87mm </TD></TR></TABLE>

Is not the bore to 87mm the problem is the sealing . You can run 85.5mm with no issues , pass that its went you start having headaches, specially on a daily driven project.
The crowder stroker kit is not realiable (at least not for daily driven) You dont seem many peeps with it on the street if that , most peeps that run it are drag racing (track use only) some auto cross . You are better of if displacement is what you are looking for going with a 2.0l 85mm B18c5 . Its reliable ( as good as who builts it ) and you can have forget pistons like : JE, WIseco. etc... Which will allow you (with no problems) to run a wild cam like Toda Spec D, Jun III or skunk stage 3 since they have deeper valve pockets...