Rey01ITR

Hello everyone and thanks first for any help given. I jus recently bought a itr py ^^ last weekend. but its not passing smog. Im in california and bought it from nevada. Im not sure what the problems and am willing to give more info if it helps. Mainly it has high HC levels but its barely over. I replaced the plugs seeing how one has alot of carbon build up. Compression test is fine. During this week i will be seafoaming it and a friend is going to check the cat. Heres one thing.. the intake sensor which i think is called the IAT sensor (intake air temp) is not in the intake piping. I CANT FIND IT.. im assuming it goes into the 3rd port of the manifold but not sure. if anyone has a pic of it or knows for certain that would help.. hopin the previous owner did not cut into the harness or relocate it. i can post quality pic if necessary. My friend has a scanner and the temp read 120 and slowly climbed to 131 which im guessing is real high.. im hoping this is the problem but i need help and any suggestions.. sorry for the long read. I will post more info soon.

Louie

can you please scan the copy of the smog invoice or post up the emissions readings.

irev210

you need to post more info.

The IAT is located on the manifold, not the intake arm. I doubt you have a faulty IAT.


1) What sort of mods does the car have?
2) How many miles


Put the stock exhaust manifold back on, get new sparkplugs, properly gapped, get a new OEM Honda Cap and Rotor, make sure you are using stock sparkplug wires, get new oem denso o2 sensors and you should be all set.

Rey01ITR

so first attempt is the first two pics. after i changed the plugs seeing how one was white which i think means corrosion? not too sure either way. im going to check the distributer after this post. The second set of pics is after i put in NGK laser plat plugs in. As for mods... injen cold air. MSD wires. AEM fuel rail. Stock injectors. Full stock exhaust. only other mod is exterior and what i didnt list expect to be stock. Maybe this info will help but when i got the car it was missing the ground for the motor (the ground on the bottom right corner of motor to rad support). I thought was weird and put in some thick ground got from monument ><; Previous owner mentioned that when he purchased it, he made the owner before replace fuel rail because he had its jimmy rigged somehow. Not 100% how but i remember he said something about something on one side was missing. I jus sent a message to him will post once he answers.
Oh and one last things. Ima pull the IAT valve to check for buildup but check out this link and tell me if its bs. THANKS AGAIN

Rey01ITR

Sorry for double post but has 79k on it. Stock exhaust manifold but is missing heat sheild which i assume is evidence that someone modded the exhaust before. meaning replaced o2's or even used stock o2's on diff mods. Scanner showed that they were switching normally. "switching/opening" not too sure the term. Just wanted to make sure answered all ?'s asked. I can remove o2's but dont have the right wrench which means a pain.

Rey01ITR

ok so the car checked out fine from my ASE friend but he said replace the cat. As i told him about the previous owner messing around with the fuel rail it made perfect sense. I planned on doing it tommarow but i hit a brick wall. Not literally but i might as well have b/c im knee deep in it now. I asked him why the car was shaking so much and he pointed how loose the side motor mount was. So i decided to fix this little problem, or so i thought. As i loosen the timing belt cover (upper) my girl noticed the motor shifted. I stepped back and raised the motor to lighten the load. As i pulled of the cover one bolt came right out. As i looked at it all the threads to the block are on the bolt.
i then removed the mount to the susp and noticed the mount (engine side) was not connected to the motor. There was another bolt on the lower side but it was mighty short. I inspected the holes and they are both in the block with the heads missing. So my little repair just turned into a HUGE headache. So i have one bolt that has the blocks threads. Another that is a stub. And one missing.

I hope that cat fixes the smog issue and im sure it will.. but at this point i am exhausted and this type r is now my nightmare. WHY WOULD SOMEONE MESS WITH THE ENGINE MOUNT LIKE THIS.. sorry for caps. So this thread is pretty much done. Thanks for ur help irev and louie.

r'trukin

i would skip the seafoam. thats just me.

94VTEC2TONE

you are barely failing emissions. it mite be due to the the cat. but i doubt it. ur doing 60ppm now. you can backprobe that iat sensor for voltage since its a analog output. maybe trying checking hte wire. thats very little emissions but california is so gay

irev210

best spark plugs are just the NGK v-power standard copper plugs

get "BKR6E-11"

Also, put on stock sparkplug wires, you can buy them from the dealer for 50 bucks.

Also, buy a new OEM cap/rotor and a heat shield from the dealer


Just because the o2 sensor is working, doesn't mean a new one wont help (as long as you buy denso factory oem replacement)

You should also clean or replace the intake air filter.

Buying a new cat is expensive, really not worth the hassle. You are putting a bandaide on the problem. If your cat wasn't working, you would be failing 100x worse.

fuel rail is irrelevent

eg6cvchatch

change your o2 sensor. make sure before you take it in, that the motor and cat are really warmed up. sit there and rev 2200rpm til you feel like its warm and ready and it will pass. im a smog tech, if it fails........it wont fail!

Rey01ITR

So i got the car running smooth with new timing belt, wp, and motor mount fixed. Tommarow im getting a new cat. Gonna run the test. If fail gonna get valves adj and new o2 then test again. Have a plan just hoping for the latter. Thanks for suggestions guys.

eg6cvchatch

waisting your money on new cat, your cat is still good with those numbers........let me know how it goes

irev210

yah, just wasting money with a new cat.

Your cat works fine. KEEP the oem cat, it will last longer anyway.


You ask for help, we tell you your cat works fine but you are replacing it anyway?

NEW AIR FILTER (AEM replacement #21-203DK)
$45 bucks, shipped

CAP
30102-P72-006
7.41

HEAD ASSY., ROTOR
30103-P73-003
16.91

WIRE, IGNITION (SUMITOMO)
32722-P30-405
51.73


COVER A, EX. MANIFOLD
18120-P73-A00
54.65

BOLT-WASHER (8X14)
90015-PT0-J00
(need 3) 3*1.74 = $5.22


NGK BKR6E-11 (available almost anywhere for 2.50-3.50 each) Heck, even amazon sells them
http://www.amazon.com/NGK-BKR6E-N-11...5799730&sr=8-1

You can get OEM denso O2 sensors (same as parts from dealer, just less)

Denso o2 sensors you need-

234-4011 (~$90)
234-4659 (~$150)

VS OEM

36532-P75-A01 SENSOR, RR. OXYGEN
204.40

36531-P73-G01 SENSOR, OXYGEN
229.52


New OEM cat costs over 500 bucks, for something you don't even need...
18160-P73-A10 CONVERTER (HDM975) 569.61



I would rather keep your OEM cat vs changing out. What you will end up doing is more of a 1 time fix. If you swap out to a cheaper carsound cat, you need to get it welded in, it can end up leaking, wears out faster, etc.

These are all maintenance items (for the most part) that should be replaced by now anyway.

Rey01ITR

Well im getting the cat mainly b/c theres a rattle coming from it. But i definetly want to get a good dizzy and o2's. Thanks a ton for the part numbers b/c thats really helpful. The exhaust manifold is stock. Im thinking about changing the o2's first b/c those numbers are alot lower then i expected. Now i had a 2000 si and it had major cat issues. Around 70k it was changed 3 times.. was wondering if dochvtec motors follow along the line since thats my only experience. I wish i had the smog numbers so i could relate the two issues but i definetly dont want to buy a new cat and yea it would be a carsound and it would be a 300$ job. So heres a ?.. what numbers would show bad cat? and high hc is basically unburnt fuel? Lean? I was jus replaceing the cat b/c my friend said it was the wise decision. Another friend checked the ecu and the o2's were switching like they should (thats what he told me). As of now i jus want it to pass so i can Cal register the car. Thanks again for info.

irev210

For your 2000 SI, you had other issues if it was failing smog at 70K with the stock cat. You keep replacing the cat to cover up another problem.

If your cat was bad, all of your #'s would be VERY high.


I know your exhaust manifold is stock, but you should put a heat shield on it. It will keep your exhaust temps higher, making your cat work like it is supposed to. The exhaust gas temp going into the cat needs to be as hot as it can be for the cat to work correctly.

I just smogged a 1997 type R in california with 100k miles on it, 100% stock - did a basic tuneup before going in (as I described above) and passed without issue.

Stock OEM cat after 100k miles was still working fine.

Your current cat now, is it oem or has it already been replaced? If it is rattling, it is probably just the heat shields around the cat, which is an easy fix.

Rey01ITR

So the o2's should be in today or possibly tommarow and when i put em in im going straight to the smog. if it fails, getting cap and rotor and wires. then smog.. Yea i have the stock exhaust manifold for the si still so i just put that heat sheild on. So ima keep my fingers crossed and post if the o2's help.
Just a side note, my friend whom i bought the car from said that the previous miami owner jimmy rigged the fuel rail by making it shorter. I dunno how he cut or sealed it but i guess to make the fuel pressure higher. I'm assuming that during the duration of the mod that may have lowered the stock o2's effieciency correct?

Rey01ITR

Great news. It passed the smog. I had my smog tech friend adj. the dist. timing(advanced) and the HC's were upper 40's. Great thing i didnt do the cat. Im going to return the o2's b/c i was going to have them put in if it didnt pass jus by the timing. I noticed it after i did the mount and timing belt/wp and have noticed today taht the distributer has been making a crackling noise but it goes away after the car warms up. So i think ima get a new dist cap and rotor. But at least its registered now. Thanks again u guys for the helpful info i guess all i needed was to jus do the timing.

Rey01ITR

was thinking bout postin picks of it rockin its new cali plates.. no numbers of course, but it still needs work. No chin spoiler And sorry i wasnt looking for a money shot either. Thanks for the help again guys.

Sparkles

Congrats on passing!

VTEC_Club

I'm having the same problem now but I think my cat coverter is bad. It seems like it doesn't want to accelerate sometimes. I just want to know the difference on a GSR catalytic coverter and a 01 type R. I found a good used 2000 GSR converter but the parts number for the ITR has these "(HDM975)" in it. Plus it was cheaper than the gsr new. Are they even the same length?

Rey01ITR

Hmm.. well if ur suffering bottem end loss then it could be a problem with ur spark, fuel, or sensors. Well could be alot of things actually. If it is a cat problem then it usually comes with a MIL light which should read catalytic below threshold..or sumthing along that line. If u have the smog readings post it b/c im sure someone here does smog or can read it.. It sure helped me out when I posted mine. However my car had high HC's but was running fine with no loss of power. Whats the mileage? Has the cat been changed before? What kind of maintanence has been performed and with what kind of parts? Also make any home checks u can to be certain its not particular problems. Easy one to check is compression check. Post whatever info u can and maybe we can figure out whats wrong. Oh and about your cat. Usually Honda cats last long if the car is maintained and problem free. Aftermarkets usually go bad fast so wouldnt go there. Im not positive but i think the sizes are different for type r/gsr converters. Ran a search but didnt find an exact asnwer. Dont stress bro jus ask and u shall receive.

Acura-Power

before you buy any parts, I would take it to an autoparts store and let them scan it. See if there are any stored codes. You dont want to throw a bunch of parts at the problem because the parts you have may already be working.
I am not sure if you can buy ethanol E85 in CA but this may lower readings since it burns around 90% cleaner than gasoline.

VTEC_Club

I have power loss high end. Like when downshifting or picking up speed. I'm going to have to do a compression check as well. Seems to be burning oil more as of late. I'm thinking all this is going to cost a pretty penny if I get to down to the problem.