90efb16

iTrader: (7)

The S21 is an older part # that was on a SB (service bulletin) that honda released in 2001 when honda realized that older civic's rear trailing arm bushing's were tearing. Later when the delsol and the 1 gen crv's came out honda realized that they also had trailing arm bushing. Honda then came out with a superseded SB in 2006 that replaced the S21 with SR3-000 (civic/delsol) and SR3-003 (crv). I called my local warehouse and ask a rep if they heard on the S21's and he was stupped for a little and then asked where I got the number and I told him the SB and then he told me they have a lot of them bc the SR3 replaced them. They are still availible and I plan on trying them out when I need them.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

It's the CRV bushing I'm intestered in. It's still cheaper than the S21, and it fits just the same. I guess the real question is.....what makes the CRV "003" bushing different? Softer, harder, different internal contours? Maybe it's just the same thing again in a different bag?

90efb16

iTrader: (7)

.31mm bigger is the only diffrence between the SR3-003 (crv) and the S21-003 (older SB civic) the bushing feel the same and look the same all the way around. I have all three sitting in front of me right now as I write this. I guess the price a little too lol

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

Well thanks so much for taking the time. I really appreciate it.

On a side note...anybody notice SPC started selling these bushing x-tractors too? Except theirs are like TWICE the price. What's up with that? The summit retail store by me has the SPC ones.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SPS-65100/

94rs-turbo

iTrader: (6)

Ive used and installed the CRV ones a few times and never had an issue, so why not go with the cheaper one?

90efb16

iTrader: (7)

no one said you cant I just feel like for some reason honda made the part number different so I would either use the SR3-000 or the S21-000 imo

Reaccion

After I installed the 52385-SR3-000 and my 89 Civic never ran correctly. When I have people in my car and I driving at least 45MPH, the car makes this crazy noise when going in holes or bumps... I will have to change them again... what part number would you guys finally recommend??

Dogginator

Did you align them correctly for both clocking and depth?

memphisraines26

iTrader: (1)

Dragging up an older thread for more info. What is the correct way to clock the new RTA bushing for lowered cars?

94rs-turbo

iTrader: (6)

shouldnt have to, mark them with the arrow on the bushing as the SB says and reinstall

Deksinjo

My 96' Civic sedan use energy suspension bushing last 180 000 km and still don't have signs of wear, only little creak over bump, is daily drive for every terrain, off road, bad road, free way...

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

You do something like this while everything is still fully assembled and the car is resting on it's wheels. This will mark the "resting position" of the bushing. Then you install the new bushing clocked to match the line. Bingo, zero stress on your TA bushings at rest.

Here is an old writeup about it: http://www.performanceforum.com/wesv...g/bushing.html

memphisraines26

iTrader: (1)

ok Thanks! now I got the full scope!

DC Dan

What about proper setup for the rest of the chassis bushings? In scale radio control cars they make sure the arms all move freely without the coilovers attached. Maybe the same principle applies here? Maybe this would be easier on bushings as well.

Deksinjo

Proper with hard rubber bushing is pointing-strengthening at ride height , here in my country all race car have metal bushing similar to bearing but that does not apply well to ride comfort , is too much noise . Point is reduce weight of suspension at arms so suspension can work properly.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

RC cars use ball cups and hinge pins to facilitate suspension movement. Similar to spherical bearings or poly bushings. Not at all similar to rubber bushings. With rubber bushings it's hard to check free range because it requires a lot of force to move the suspension through it's stroke (even w/o the shock attached). This is because you have to physically twist all the rubber bushings to make the suspension move. And while you could use a jack to force the suspension through it's range, you won't be able to feel any binding.

DC Dan

I meant by keeping the bolts from pressing all the way against the moving parts. So you could move the arms freely by hand?

DC Dan

Or maybe set the car on jacks at ride height and then tighten everything down similar to clocking the rta bushing.

racebum

would go this way.

you could probably lob grease all over them to help seal out the elements for winter driving as well

on other stuff. i'm not a huge hardrace fan. china rubber and i can't imagine an oem life

as for poly. with stiff 400lb+ springs in the rear you don't have any unloading, could easily see how you could with lighter springs though, the poly design is almost like an elastomer helper spring. worst part about poly is actually the slop over years. they are a wear design and the axle sandpapers itself inside the bushing

i would either get those bearings or oem honda-mugen

danwat1234

Interestingly enough, my local shop recommends the SR3-003 bushing for my 96-00 Civic, which is for the CRV;;
"Thanks for contacting us at Same Day Auto Service.

There is a lot of comment about the bushings used on the rear trailing arms on the Honda Civics (and other Honda models as well). Our opinion on the bushings: we recommend use of part number 52385-SR3-003 for your car. In our experience these bushings have all the benefits without the negatives. The rubber used in these is a bit firmer than the 52385-SR3-000, or the 52385-S21-003, and provide a little tighter control, but are still quiet and long lasting. Our experience shows the aftermarket silicone, nylon, or other materials offered tend to be too stiff and noisey. (We have had customers have us go back to the Honda part due to noise when the aftermarket bushings were used.)"
--
Since our rear suspension is a multilink suspension that allows for camber and toe changes, wouldn't it be detrimental to put in a super hard RTA bushing? Then the suspension will behave more like a cheap torsion beam rear end rather than multilink, since now with the hard bushings, camber and toe changes will not be allowed, or not much?
This may be good for a track car but not for a rally car or daily driver cornering performance across rough terrain?

Perhaps OEM is best in order to retain the qualities of our suspension, if you are looking for good overall performance rather than just track performance?

I would prefer to go with a bushing that lasts the longest, besides Polyurethane, but there is no definitive data that says what part number/brand lasts the longest. Therefore probably OEM is best?

Thanks

spcrxracer

iTrader: (1)

This is complete miss information.

If you read this service bulletin: http://www.performanceforum.com/wesv...ing/report.pdf

You will see right at the left column bottom of page one:
Failed part number: 52385-SR3-000

I'm going with 52385-S21-003 is the correct bushing per the TSB.

Also, see here: https://honda-tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes-54/rear-trailing-arm-bushing-rta-part-number-1960010/

94rs-turbo

iTrader: (6)

this is correct but was back in 02, revised in 06
Service Bulletin
© 2006 American Honda Motor Co., Inc. – All Rights Reserved ATB 21350-32153 (0603) 1 of 2
CUSTOMER INFORMATION: The information in this bulletin is intended for use only by skilled technicians who have the proper tools, equipment,
and training to correctly and safely maintain your vehicle. These procedures should not be attempted by “do-it-yourselfers,” and you should not assume
this bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle has the condition described. To determine whether this information applies, contact an
authorized Honda automobile dealer.
March 31, 2006
00-006
Applies To: 1988–00 Civic – ALL
1997–01 CR-V – ALL
1993–97 Del Sol – ALL
Clunk or Squeak From Rear Suspension
(Supersedes 00-006, dated December 11, 2001, to update the information marked by the black bars)
SYMPTOM
A clunk or squeak from the rear suspension when
going over rough or bumpy roads.
PROBABLE CAUSE
Broken rear trailing arm bushing(s).
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the rear trailing arm bushing(s).
PARTS INFORMATION
Rear Trailing Arm Bushing:
1988–00 Civic and 1993–97 Del Sol
P/N 52385-SR3-000, H/C 4098299
1997–01 CR-V:
P/N 52385-SR3-003, H/C 7424773
TOOL INFORMATION
Trailing Arm Bushing Installation Set:
T/N 07AAF-SK7A130, H/C 8283822
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Failed Part: 1988–00 Civic and 1993–97 Del Sol:
P/N 52385-SR3-000
H/C 4098299
1997–01 CR-V:
P/N 52385-SR3-003
H/C 7424773
Defect Code: 01801
Symptom Code: 04205
Skill Level: Repair Technician
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty
expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by
the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone
Office. You must request consideration, and get a
decision, before starting work.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

I installed the CRV bushings on my CRX. On one side I hammered the old bushing out easily and hammered the new one in no problem (2lb brass hammer from Harbor Freight). On the other trailing arm, the old crusty bushing pooped out easy enough, but I could tell things were odd. The old bushing had been slightly squeezed into a cone shape and the new bushing wouldn't hammer in. I went and purchased a 12 Ton press to "make" it fit, but even that gave up. When I finally got the bushing to start going in without tilting sideways (I had to walk it in), the press gave up (too tight). Finally I balanced the arm on some bricks and slammed that bitch home with the hammer till it was fully set.

I guess the moral is it doesn't matter which arm or bushing you have, you just might have a hard time depending on how the trailing arm was shaped in the 1st place.

All has been well since. The rear of my old Rex is squeak free now. Also I returned that woosie HF 12 Ton press. :D

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

edit.... oops mods please delete.

94rs-turbo

iTrader: (6)

very nice EG, yes I've seen issues like that before