98typer794

I just got my JR supercharged type r on the dyno and i only only pulled 200 whp and 133.6 ft lbs of torque on 6lbs of boost. Does anyone know what the problem is, or what i can do to fix it and get more horsepower. I didn't do that much stuff to it but just slap the charger on. My timing is set at stock, i have no detonation so i didn't touch it. This is the stuff i have done is:

thermal R&D cat back exhaust
kamikaze 2.5 in header
custom test pipe
JR map controller
cartech FMU
aem short ram intake
160 degree thermostat
heat range colder plugs
hondata manifold gasket
magnacore 8.5 wires

vtecvoodoo

Hondata. get it.

blykins

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecvoodoo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hondata. get it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

2kflamedlude

JR supercharger is not going do you any good.. My friend has TYPE R with JR and He could barely leave me in the dust my prelude and Hope you dont blow your motor.

01ITR#700

If possible talk to Newt2 on this board, he has tried it all when it comes to getting the JRSC to work well on an ITR, there is one other JRSC ITR guy that knows his stuff big time on here but I forgot his screen name.
HTH
M

98typer794

I plan on getting the hondata set up, what set up do you think would be the best, i was going to get the p28 and the s200 with 440 injectors. is that alright or does someone else think something else would be better.

hypa

The P28 with s200 is a good option, but you'll be giving up the knock sensor. Running a jrsc, you'll be best off to buy the P28 option, and run a J&S safeguard.

If I was you, I'd look into a set of cam gears to dial out the overlap. I found some good gains throughout the powerband once I tuned them properly.

ITR-01-0977

I would try to get in touch with Pete (evil cetane).....he had his jrsc running really well.

Zeus

Go ahead and get it... I've fought the band-aid method for years on the GSR, and have finally surrendered to ordering the $1300 Hondata/Moss Motors package... I've talked to the guy that the ITR ECU was prototyped on and it sounds promising... 275whpish at 10psi. That amount of boost on the Jackson/Eaton M62 discharges too hot for my liking, but they are supposed to also have a map for my 8psi GSR application. I could get the hard parts for much cheaper, but what I am really paying for is the "ready to go" map. Pretty much everyone who offers the S200 said that they would send it to me pig rich to protect themselves. This makes sense from a business stand point... to a degree. Of course, ideally, everyone would have their car wideband tuned on the dyno (and on the street for the top notch professionals) in a perfect world. Not all of us have the time, or the time to wait to do it up right, right now though. It appears that from the people I've talked to, this will fit the bill for me. Running rich yes, bad mileage, clog your cat rich, no. Sounds good for thus far, we'll see how it runs.
That is, until I have the time to trek from Austin, TX all the way to Sgt's door step for a "super tune"...

vtecvoodoo

you should talk to Matt@Hondata.com

Spunkster

Ok this is Matt@hondata.com

They to the JRSC on an ITR is tuning, tuning, tuning. With all the jackson electronics and fpr and stuff the best I could do was about 205-210hp. At that same boost level with the larger injectors and Hondata, I was able to make about 230hp

If you get the Hondata with the s200, 440's, and the p28, we have a base map that will need little to no tuning.

Here is a dynograph of my car at about 7-8 psi with proper tuning and the map that is included with the Hondata. I'm now running at about 10-11 psi.


If you have any more questions, you can catch me on AIM, my sn is: IntegraTypeR

Dr Pooface

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2kflamedlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">JR supercharger is not going do you any good.. My friend has TYPE R with JR and He could barely leave me in the dust my prelude and Hope you dont blow your motor. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Shut up.

vtec.dc2

that sounds like the right setup, hondata s200b (boost) is what you want and p28 should do the job, knock sensor only works at low rpm and J&S safeguard may not be the best idea neither, for boost. Retarding timing too much could also do some damage. Our cars are loud and could trigger sensor at wrong times, theres more information out there to help with decision on J&S safeguard or other similar products. - research more before making decision on safeguard.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98typer794 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I plan on getting the hondata set up, what set up do you think would be the best, i was going to get the p28 and the s200 with 440 injectors. is that alright or does someone else think something else would be better.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Modified by vtec.dc2 at 1:16 AM 5/6/2003

woodog

there is no 'problem' with your numbers.
that's about how much jrsc puts down in an ITR out the box.
actually your numbers are better than the few that i have seen.

dynapack dynos put down higher numbers than dynojet.
which dyno did were you on?

hondata is the 'fix'.

98typer794

i was on the the dynojet, if i get the p28 what happens about my knock sensor, what should i do about it, i heard i could get the p30 and it still keeps the knock sensor. is it bad to eliminate the knock sensor, wont i get a lot of detonation?

vtec.dc2

p28 just won't read knock sensor, as if you don't have one.. you could also get p72 (94-95gsr ecu) - knock sensor works up to 5000rpm.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98typer794 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i was on the the dynojet, if i get the p28 what happens about my knock sensor, what should i do about it, i heard i could get the p30 and it still keeps the knock sensor. is it bad to eliminate the knock sensor, wont i get a lot of detonation?</TD></TR></TABLE>

baonest1

curious if swapping to lower comp. pistons would do him any good?

Spunkster

Why go to all that trouble and expense when you don't have to?

baonest1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spunkster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why go to all that trouble and expense when you don't have to?</TD></TR></TABLE> dont know

i figured low compression would be the best for SC.

96dc2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dc2R320 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
dynapack dynos put down higher numbers than dynojet.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not necessarily true. The numbers that a Dynapack read can depend upon the TYPE of run you perform. Shawn Church's Dynapack reads higher than a Dynojet, but my local Dynapack shop, Motorsport Dynamics, reads a bit lower than a Dynojet.

EVIL CETANE

listen to Spunkster.

He has an ITR with a JRSC.

Incressed his number with the Hondata.

Tunes it all the time.

You both have the exact same setup.

HE WORKS FOR HONDATA!!!!!!!!!!!!!


I really don't know how to spell it out any better for you. You just met the best resource for your car you can get!!! Use it, he is willing to help.


Your Friend Captian Obvious

98cwitr

tune it tune it tune it (hondata would be your best bet) Did I mention tune it?

ITR1071

That's messed up man, my buddy with a 2001 GSR put down 205 to the wheels and he is running 5 lbs(according to the boost gauge). He has a DC 4-2-1, Apexi N1 catback, AEM intake, JR fuel pump, and low temp thermostat. His timing was set by ear, but the dyno guy at Balanced Performance said it was where it needed to be. Good luck man on that charger, but I would have done something else to get the power out of my R.

fredtoast

I would suggest that you upgrade the intake, but that is not going to get you a lot of HP.

I also notice that you are using stock injectors and the stock fuel pump. You can't get enough fuel that way. You need to upgrade one or both. Since you have the cartech fmu I would recommend larger injectors. That way you can keep the fuel pressure lower. This will save wear on your pump, and strain on your fuel lines.

The jrsc usually doesn't put out the numbers that are shown on their website (something like 210 with only a catback), but it has worked out great for me. I've been driving the hell out of it for over 30K miles with no problems.

I'd like to have the hondata, but I don't want to spend that much more on my car. If you're thinking that the hondata is overkill for 6 psi, don't let that stop you. You will want to increase the boost within a year. The money will be much more worth it when you are boosting 8-10 psi.

Spunkster

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zyg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hi Matt, so when you ready to go turbo, for some real numbers? hehe

Hopefully I'll be able to make it out West by the end of the summer. Ed
Unfortunately I won't be making the So Cal dyno meet on the 17th. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh...I may just skip a step and have both on at the same time. Hardest part will be a solenoid for the JRSC bypass valve at about 3500 rpm when the turbo is good and spooled.

I'm building another B18C5, but I'm not sure what direction to go with it yet.

I'd really like a make a RWD, mid engine DC2. It will be like having seat warmers with the header so close to the seats. And who needs a back seat anyway. Oh and so no one flames me, this will not be done to an ITR, but a cheap LS or GS.