Outta these two headers what would u guys perfer?Performance wise?plmk..thanks

 

Get it JetHot coated though so it wont rust (i.e JDM)

 

running some engine mods, such as Spec B's or JUN stage 3's, will the JDM 4-1 start to be restrictive?

 

probably minimally restrictive. I wouldn't worry about it - its a great bang-for-the-buck header.

Try these threads for some more background info:
https://honda-tech.com/zerosearch?di...ery=JDM+header

 

Big Phat R,

I thought the JDM header was made of stainless steel and therefore rust aint a problem with it, is this wrong?????

Sam

 

It's mild steel. Rust has been a problem for many. Wake up man! Eat your vegemite.

 

or your Vitameatavegimine. It's tasty too(sorry ive been watching too much tv these days)


[Modified by Type Goch, 6:18 AM 6/27/2001]

 

Does the JDM actaully outpreform the DC?

 

The DC is cheapest...

 

I wrote before that I wasn't sure if it was stainless or mild and I thought mild, but I believe it issome 400 series stainless steel. Probably 409 or an equivavlent. 400 series are magnetic versus the non magnetic 300 series. 409 will also rust like mild steel, however it will take much longer.

 

Its stainless just not polished. All metal will rust; stainless, mild, polished or not.

 

Good to top quality stainless will not rust.

This is why it is stainless.

 

300 series won't rust. If you see rust on 300 series stainless it is probably due to some carbon steel getting on the material, i.e. brushing 300 series stainless with a carbon steel wire brush or even a stainless steel wire brush that was used on carbon steel will deposit small particles on the material and these particles of carbon steel is what you see rusting.

 

you say tomayto - i say toma-to
you say potayto - i say pota-to
Let's call the whole thing off....

They get rusty

 

Stainless does rust, I think you confusing stainless with anything that has a polish on it, which is not true.

Here are links from reputable vendors clearly stating that it is completely stainless. Mild and stainless is a bigger difference than potayto - pota-to.
I don't think these guys would risk reputation for something so minor.

http://www.optauto.com/shop/product_...em=40&back=yes
http://www.modacar.com/acura/frameset_headers_acura.htm

 

Big Phat R-

I have to politely disagree with that statement. I worked in the nuclear industry for 8 years and have personally seen 40+ year old 304 stainless piping that wasn't rusted. We developed/used extremely strict procedures when modifying or installing this material, it's all in how you handle it. I also worked in the fiber optic industry for 3 years designing and installing O2, CH4, Ar, He and N2 delivery and piping systems. All we used was 300 series stainless. Any parts (filters, flow meters, gauges, MFCs or solenoid valves) that were in contact with the gases were made from stainless steel or brass. The plant I worked at was almost 20 years old and the original tubing looked almost as good as the stuff we were installing, but no rust. Our process would not tolerate any foreign material of any kind. The smallest particle of trash/rust that got into the system and on some glass would cause the glass to have a stress point and could lead to the fiber breaking somewhere in the process, which was unacceptable.

 

I frankly like my dented stock exhaust manifold.

It's from where the radiator met the exhaust manifold in my little shunt... It's extra backpressure for low end rpm. Right...

Warren

 

hehehehe

 

Phat R:
Changing the subject. I wanted to ask you if you reprogrammed the Mugen ECU, and if so why. Is there something in the hardware that is much better than a P28 ECU. Just seems like you threw away a $1300 ECU, rather than buying one for $225, and programming it

 

SMSP - I think your comments are directed at Digital R, not me. I will politely reaffirm that I'm assuming that the JDM header is <u>not </u>stainless, but instead mild steel (and hence the rust) and thus I agree with your points entirely. Stainless does not/should not rust spontaneously. It may get things adhering to it, but it will not "rust" i.e. iron oxide.


[Modified by Big Phat R, 12:19 PM 6/27/2001]

 

The quesiton is why would you spend $1300 on a ECU when you can get a stand-alone system i.e. TEC-II....

 

Hey Mister ignorant poster - you're assuming I paid 1300 which I did not. .

 

In all fairness, I think the suggestion is that it is a lot of money to spend on a "chip" and not have any adjustability to it.

AND,

If I remember correctly, you had the Mugen chip reprogrammed by Yoshio to match your Toda's, which undoubtedly cost even more.