Here's a thread on my ITR and how it looks now.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1533717



The motor isn't too healthy and needs a rebuild. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1623949

Since it's my DD I picked up another ITR block/head for this. I plan to tackle this rebuild myself (my first) but have a few questions for those with experience. I thought about posting this in All Motor but thought I'd try here first.

Getting block machine shop ready
1. Should I remove the oil pan studs & block drain plugs before taking it in?

Answer: Courteous of Mike_Belben@yahoo.com - Yes, remove both.




2. If I'm using the crank that came in the block, should I have the line bored checked? I ask because the main caps will need to be torqued down for this. Do I supply the old main bolts (which are already stretched) to do this or send with new bolts?

Answer: Courteous of Mike_Belben@yahoo.com - Without some very expensive equipment there is no way to determine if crank bore alignment is true until you install and spin it. Assess then and have checked if it doesn't spin freely.



3. The block was supplied without the oil cooler installed. I plan to reinstall it but need to remove the oil filter mounting stud. Can anyone tell me how to do this?

Answer: Research concluded the oil filter center bolt is M20 x 1.5 thread. I'm going to buy 2 jam nuts from Fastenal ($3.50 ea.) and attempt to unscrew it.

Edit: Kenso has informed me that it appears the oil cooler center bolt screws onto the block center stud. I plan to try this beforemoving forward.

Parts

My block was already disassembled when I purchased it. I was supplied with 2 different sets of oil squirters. One set has a square shoulder and one a rounded one. Can anyone confirm which are the correct ones? It seems the round shoulder fit better but I would like confirmation.

Answer: Researching some pictures from previous HT threads helped me determine that the square shoulder units (bottom) are B18C and the rounded shoulder units (top) are B16. Still seeking additional confirmation on this one.




Thanks for the help Updates to come.

Modified by RStoR at 7:10 PM 2/18/2007


Modified by RStoR at 8:32 AM 2/19/2007

 

1 - I removed all the plugs and fittings on my block when I had it sent out and built

2 - I supplied the crank with caps and bolts installed so they could ensure everything was proper

3 - I dont think my oil squirters were reinstalled on my build. I dont even think they are needed for forged pistons and rods but I do not know this for sure or the reasons behind it.

 

Looks great Chris.

Good luck with everything.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
3 - I dont think my oil squirters were reinstalled on my build. I dont even think they are needed for forged pistons and rods but I do not know this for sure or the reasons behind it.</TD></TR></TABLE>


iirc.....forged pistons do not require oil squirters because the extra heat is needed to help the piston expand to fill the bore properly....

however, he is not using forged internals, so i would install the oil squirters.....

 

I always leave the oil pan studs in, no reason to take them out and risk snapping them. Remove the block drains, it ensures a cleaner bath.

 

what is the intended build? na?

 

nos? haha

good luck with rebuild chris

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what is the intended build? na?</TD></TR></TABLE>

NA - 200 whp+

JDM ITR .25 OS


Alainz Port


Toda Goodness

 

Look what showed up today!


Thanks Karoush (Baonest) for the hook-up.

Thanks Jack @ P1 for taking care of the warranty work.

 

^^^^^^That looks yummy .

Good luck with the rebuild . I'm subscribing 'cause my engine is due for a refresh soon.

 

Nice. Cant wait to see end result.

 

More toys




Talked to DonF today about the head. Once I get my OEM parts in I'll be putting it in the mail to him.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RStoR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">More toys




Talked to DonF today about the head. Once I get my OEM parts in I'll be putting it in the mail to him. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Now you've got me wanting to pick up another icebox myself seeing as how they won't be available any more when I need one. Good timing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RStoR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

NA - 200 whp+

JDM ITR .25 OS

</TD></TR></TABLE>


Maybe throw in some P30'a for a little more compression, and LS crank and rods for a little more torque. Just a suggestion

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RStoR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Answer: Courteous of Mike_Belben@yahoo.com - Without some very expensive equipment there is no way to determine if crank bore alignment is true until you install and spin it. Assess then and have checked if it doesn't spin freely. </TD></TR></TABLE>
yes, there is a way, by using plasti gauge. jeff at importbuilders calls it "the three step procedure." try checking their site.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RStoR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Answer: Researching some pictures from previous HT threads helped me determine that the square shoulder units (bottom) are B18C and the rounded shoulder units (top) are B16. Still seeking additional confirmation on this one.</TD></TR></TABLE>
here is a pic i took of my itr oil squirter.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88 rex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Maybe throw in some P30'a for a little more compression, and LS crank and rods for a little more torque. Just a suggestion </TD></TR></TABLE>


JDM Pistons + 0.015 mill = sweet spot in my opinion


Full ITR rotating assembling = no additional cost to an already pricey build

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RStoR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Full ITR rotating assembling = no additional cost to an already pricey build</TD></TR></TABLE>

just suck it up.....sissy

p.s. get rid of the jdm fd and get the a.t.s., and new 5th gear

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RStoR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


JDM Pistons + 0.015 mill = sweet spot in my opinion


Full ITR rotating assembling = no additional cost to an already pricey build</TD></TR></TABLE>

Cost is negligable. Just trade/sell it to some kid who wants ITR gear. LS cranks/rods are super cheap to come by.

And I missed the mill part, but I still think you'll be just fine with P30's. Otherwise you're just building a fresh JDM ITR motor with just a tad more spunk.

EDIT: Just re-read that this is an extra block, which only strengthens my thought that you should get a little more extreme.

 

I agree that it would be really fun to build a crazy NA motor but then again I will have an extra ITR long block once I install this motor

For now, I don't want the hassle of having to swap all kinds of parts to pass the yearly OBD2 inspection NC has. With this set-up/compression I know it'll be pretty simple.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RStoR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I will have an extra ITR long block once I install this motor

</TD></TR></TABLE>

not if i have anything to do with it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cmdr430 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not if i have anything to do with it </TD></TR></TABLE>


like i don't know what's been going thru that peanut of yours!

 

More parts are rolling in. Getting close!

Thanks Baranco!


I'm a cheap-***. F1 reject

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RStoR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">More parts are rolling in. Getting close!

Thanks Baranco!

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sweet mother of god.... When this gets done you should get ahold of me, it's rare that I get to run into other ITR owners in NC

 

lookin good chris

mine got back on the road last night

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RStoR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">More parts are rolling in. Getting close!

Thanks Baranco!

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I thought I was ****...you spent some $$ there! Nice!