Many of you know I recently bought a used ITR. It is a '00 w/113k. The motor was originally owned by an Acura-tech (kenso) and had a JRSC set-up installed within a few thousand miles. The car was sold to the 2nd owner and converted back to NA around 75k. I know the head came off at that point (Mugen HG installed) but do not know if a valve job was performed.

The car has been burning quite a bit of oil, 1 qt/700mi. There is no visible smoke at start-up or under acceleration. The PVC valve was checked and is still good (rattle test). There has been a slight oil smell when idling for an extended period, long stoplight.

Original Compression Test (engine warm)
Cyl 1 - 195
Cyl 2 - 175
Cyl 3 - 215
Cyl 4 - 205

Leak Down Test (60 psi)
Cyl 1 - 53
Cyl 2 - 34
Cyl 3 - 58
Cyl 4 - 54


Wasn't too worried yet since a valve adjustment was due. After adjustment oil smell while idling has gone away, thus far.

Second Compression Test (engine warm) (same tester)
Cyl 1 - 206
Cyl 2 - 175
Cyl 3 - 230
Cyl 4 - 215

Leak Down Test (100 psi) (same tester)
Cyl 1 - 12%
Cyl 2 - 42%
Cyl 3 - 5%
Cyl 4 - 6%

I plan to re-check the Cyl 1 adjustment before worrying about it but Cyl 2 is the obvious problem.

We took the intake tube and oil cap off. When pushing 100 psi into Cyl 2 we could hear air coming out of the TB when opened and the tailpipe. There may have been some out of the oil cap but it was very little compared to the TB/exhaust. Researching some old posts I found this:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">pull off the breather hose, feel air there? rings.
put your ear up to the exhaust tip, air there? exhaust valve seats.
pull off intake pipe, feel air around throttle body? intake valve seats.
open the radiator cap, any bubbles? headgasket or cracked sleeve.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
This makes me think I have a valve seat issue on this cyl. Looking for additional input on this. I want to confirm it isn't the rings.

Should I....
1. Look into just replacing the valve seals first?
2. With my mileage, will the guides need replacing too?
3. Should I just pull the whole head and have a valve job performed?
4. I'm planning to buy a ported head within about 2 months from a local guy. It is sans valves and will be fully rebuilt. Should I just wait until that is ready before I pull anything?


Modified by RStoR at 11:38 PM 5/10/2006

 

burning oil, and the results of the leakdown, Id say a valve job and seals would be a good idea. Or atleast a machine shop can check it out and run a vac test on it to get more detailed results. either way, Id consider it a maintenance item especially after being boosted and 113K miles. not only that, you can check the valves to make sure none of them are bent which could also cause compression/leakdown problems. can also check the valve guide "play" while you are in there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RStoR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
4. I'm planning to buy a ported head within about 2 months from a local guy. It is sans valves and will be fully rebuilt. Should I just wait until that is ready before I pull anything?</TD></TR></TABLE>


.....that's what I would do.


But seeing as how the motor had a jrsc on it before, I'm willing to bet $ that the ringlands on piston #2 are cracked. If you're putting those cams in there, and that nice head, I'd go ahead and put ctr pistons in stock bore as well. You can do it with the motor in the car and not have to bore or hone.

 

If you go through the effort of pulling the head, you might as well at least replace the rings. I would hone the cylinders as well (leaving the block in the car). Should be interesting to see what you find when you get the head off. I wouldn't touch it until you get the ported head ready to go.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RStoR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
4. I'm planning to buy a ported head within about 2 months from a local guy. It is sans valves and will be fully rebuilt. Should I just wait until that is ready before I pull anything?


Modified by RStoR at 11:38 PM 5/10/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kenso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you go through the effort of pulling the head, you might as well at least replace the rings. I would hone the cylinders as well (leaving the block in the car). </TD></TR></TABLE>

agree.....

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kenso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wouldn't touch it until you get the ported head ready to go.</TD></TR></TABLE>




EDIT: put the cams/valvetrain in and buy a header...... sissy

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kenso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I wouldn't touch it until you get the ported head ready to go.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Yeah...get ready...cause you'll be the one touching it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cmdr430 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">EDIT: put the cams/valvetrain in and buy a header...... sissy </TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL! Why bother? He'd just hump it instead of putting it on the car


Good luck with the work, Chris!