Anyone know where I can find a Type R shop manual PDF on the net?

Until then, can anyone help me with these engine codes?:

14
66
72

 

There you go: http://www.c-speedracing.com/faq/05.php

 

Sounds like you got some nasty problems...thought I wouldn't worry about the IACV, they can be really tempermental, and if you dont have any idle or startup issues, it's not a big deal...and as far as the misfire goes....what do you have done to the car that it's misfiring?????

 

Seems the idle is the least of my worries.

Those codes came on this morning. Haven't done nothing in terms of tuning. The motor is stock except for header and intake. It's now spewing white smoke too - head gasket? Got 71 and 72 earlier today and there's a humming sound coming coming through the air filter. The codes are also intermitent though. When the ECU is reset sometimes it throws the 72 sometimes it doesn't. Today it threw 71 and 72 but that only happened once. Now it's not throwing anything. Can go for hours without throwing a code, then all of a sudden it does. Checked the plugs and it's running lean across all cylinders. It's never ran lean before. In fact, I almost always keep it rich. Did notice the previous owner had really advanced the timing. It was right at the max mark. I pulled it back a bit, now it's hesitating.

Did a leakdown last month which showed a strong head.

But the compression was a different story:

Cylinder#1:
Dry : 185
Wet: 235
Diff: 50 psi

Cylinder #2:
Dry: 190
Wet: 230
Diff: 40psi

Cylinder #3:
Dry: 190
Wet: 210
Diff: 20psi

Cylinder #4:
Dry: 190
Wet: 210
Diff: 20psi

Cylinder 1&2 don't look so good. I'm hoping to put off a rebuild as long as possible. I've switched to 15W50 syn oil and that seemed to have stopped the oil burning. Now the missfiring. Sheash. New plugs? Wire? and cap maybe? Or am I only dreaming? Rebuilds are expensive and few people can do it properly - and the ones that do sometimes put out a bad motor. Aye. What to do...what to do.

 

Well, with the compression test you did, you're looking for consistancy between cylinders, which you have, or at least close to the point where it doesn't sound like bad rings, especially if you did a leak down test with no problems.

Also, you need to go back to 5W30 synthetic, unless you're on the track...that thick of an oil isn't helping anything. You are supposed to burn some oil...it's normal, at least to some degree (~1 quart per 1,000 miles).

I'd try the easy stuff first....plugs, cap, rotor, valve adjustment, fuel filter, and make sure to reset your ECU...other than that, it may sound stupid, but just waite till it gets worse, so this way you can at least diagnose the problem instead of guessing...

Good luck,
Aj

 

Thanks AJ.

 

I am assuming this is a stock integra R. Is it possible water may have leaked into your plugs? Ie. cleaning your motor...

 

Not if this is a re-occuring problem, water evaporates so fast, that it's really not an issue unless it gets into your cylinders, and even then, you have to have enough to hydrolock your motor, otherwise, it'll just burn off any way.

If you think it's a head gasket, change your oil and coolant, and see if there is any oil in your coolant, or vice versa, not saying that that's a sure sign, but a very good indicator at least.

Later,
Aj

 

Water is an interesting theory. I do like a clean motor bay, but on the track the car runs warmer than on the street, since it's mainly a track vehicle I doubt water could survive that kind of heat.

Changed the IAC valve yesterday. Seems my theory of it fixing itself was a little ambitious since it through that 14 code. Friend had an extra one sitting in his garage. Stopped the code 14 and the idle seems fine. Idles at 700. Going to bump it up to 800. Have developed a cold idle issue though. Stalls when cold. The cold Idle thingy isn't in the same place on the R throttle then other integras. Wish I had a shop manual.

Anyway, that's not as important as my motor issues. Did an oil change about a month ago and looked really carefully for any signs of coolant and couldn't find anything. Even sifted the oil looking for metal shavings and found nothing. Though, it wasn't as bad as it is now. Going to do the oil again and coolant to make extra sure. Have noticed the coolant resevoir is down since it's not on my driveway, it's got to be somewhere. After that, I'm doing plugs, wires and cap and am keeping my fingers crossed.


Modified by RRRex at 10:03 PM 5/25/2003

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RRRex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Water is an interesting theory. I do like a clean motor bay, but on the track the car runs warmer than on the street, since it's mainly a track vehicle I doubt water could survive that kind of heat.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you run all water in your car with no coolant, it will run cooler, the only thing that coolant does is keep your water pump lubricated, and keep your water from freezing in the winter. There are a lot of tracks, and race sanctioning bodies that don't even allow coolant.

Water and water wetter is what we usually run on our track car, with about 10% coolant to keep the pump lubricated, other than that, you really don't need any coolant...

Later,
Aj

 

10% coolant - nice.

Did not know that. For some reason I was under the impression that coolant was better in both the summer and winter. I'm assuming you use distilled water - not tap.

That's a great tip!

 

Yeah, distilled water is a must...although it's not great drinking water, as it has almost no mineral content, it's perfect for radiator fluid...

LaterZ,
Aj