I installed a set of Axxis ultimate this weekend along with some Motul RBF 600.

The installation went pretty well but now my brake pedal is very mushy.

I've always bleeded my cars myself before and I've never had any problem so far. But this was my first time on my Type R.

I used the old fashion method with a friend inside the car pumping the brake and me at the valve. The sequence I used was LF, RF, LR, RR.

I have rebleeded everything this morning with no apparent improvement.

So I'm looking for input (everything is welcome) regarding what I possibly did wrong and what should I do to correct the problem.

My brake system is all stock except for the Pads and fluid.

Thanks



[Modified by ITR00-816, 6:48 PM 4/14/2002]

 

Start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder. RR, LR, RF, LF is the sequence i use and it works fine.

 

actual sequence in helms is LF - RF - RR - LR... but it's not going to make much difference....

speedbleeders make life easy(ier) IMO... but you're gonna need a big plastic mallet, and smack the chit out of the caliper/spindel/whatever... loosen up some of the entrained air bubbles... also, i'm assuming you're using clear tubing on the bleeder valve so you can see wtf is going on.

takes time.. let her sit for a week or so, do it again, then a month from then...

D

 

Yup, like D said, it takes time. Make sure you get 3/8" clear hosing (which can be picked up at any hardware stores) so you can see if you are actually doing any good. Also, from what I've heard, Motul fluid seems to be somewhat mushy compared to others (such as ATE), but I've heard that it's just the same as well. Good Luck...

 

if it takes so long to bleed, how do race teams deal w/ this?

yshi - who sick of bleeding the brakes to no avail

 

i give speedbleeders a Its always made bleeding my brakes a breeze. I Love how I just loosen and just pump til i feel like the bubbles are gone, and move on to the next caliper. And since my car isn't lowered i don't even have to jack my car up to be able to see the valve.

 

I did a brake fluid change to ATE Super Blue, Goodridge lines, and Hawk HP+ pads this weekend.
I set the car up bled all the lines starting with farthest wheel and working inward.
The key is to have your motor running (as you do have power brakes)
I put the car down, ran it for a test drive. The pedal was still mushy, so I bled the lines one more time, and then another test run, this time with a ABSed stop to make sure there was no air in that system as well.
Good luck!!!

 

Could you please elaborate on what you did with the ABS?

 

yes please explain in more detail........thanks

tj

 

sounds like he just stompped on the brakes hard enough to engage the ABS on his test drive

 

Two Notes on bleeding brakes successfully:

1. Leave Ignition energized throughout the process. I can't explain why it works, but something with the ABS is affected and it will allow the brakes to bleed effectively. This is also recommened on F-bodies (camaro's & firebirds) as well as VW's.

2. DO NOT Depress the brake pedal all the war to the floor when bleeding. Too much travel of the pedal causes the piston in the master cylinder allows it to be scored permanently such that no amount of bleeding will ever produce a solid pedal feel even with all of the air out of the lines. Trick is put something under the pedal or short pump it to avoid this. You can tell if yours is damaged if you push the pedal (after bleeding) and it slowly creeps to the floor. If no damage you'll push the brake pedal and it will firmly hold and not move.

 

Yep, you are correct. I just stomped on the brakes to cycle the ABS system.