About how high above the top of the mainshaft should the bearing rise?
#1
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About how high above the top of the mainshaft should the bearing rise?
I've completely assembled both shafts now as precisely as I can figure out without having access to any great measuring tools. D assures me that the bearing at the top of the mainshaft will stick out above the shaft itself, but how much remains a mystery to me. Does this look about right?
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Re: (Black R)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">looks good! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Negative.
The leading edge of the chamfer on the inner race of the bearing should be just around the top of the mainshaft.... (IIRC) Check mainshaft clearance per the manual homo. Get whatever tools you need to do so.
From the side angle you can also see that your synchro ring is probably not jiving with the hub 100%.
Refresh my memory, did you have synchros replaced along with the bearings? Also remember to align the tang with the slot in the outer case.
Negative.
The leading edge of the chamfer on the inner race of the bearing should be just around the top of the mainshaft.... (IIRC) Check mainshaft clearance per the manual homo. Get whatever tools you need to do so.
From the side angle you can also see that your synchro ring is probably not jiving with the hub 100%.
Refresh my memory, did you have synchros replaced along with the bearings? Also remember to align the tang with the slot in the outer case.
#4
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I agree with D. is that top sychro hub upside down? IIRC, it definitely looks like that top synchro should be sitting lower against the sychro hub and if you have that top hub upside down, it will look like your picture does.
#6
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Re: (GRM Scott)
Well, I'm guessing that the 5th/reverse synchros have been swapped since I got the damn thing back from that idiot shop. me for not catching it sooner.
The really thick synchro goes on the top with the points facing down, while the skinnier synchro should be on the bottom. The bearing fits much better this way.
The really thick synchro goes on the top with the points facing down, while the skinnier synchro should be on the bottom. The bearing fits much better this way.
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Re: (Black R)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">looks good! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Brilliant!
Brilliant!
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Re: (D)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The leading edge of the chamfer on the inner race of the bearing should be just around the top of the mainshaft.... </TD></TR></TABLE>
What he said
The leading edge of the chamfer on the inner race of the bearing should be just around the top of the mainshaft.... </TD></TR></TABLE>
What he said
#9
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (GRM Scott)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GRM Scott »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, I'm guessing that the 5th/reverse synchros have been swapped since I got the damn thing back from that idiot shop. me for not catching it sooner.
The really thick synchro goes on the top with the points facing down, while the skinnier synchro should be on the bottom. The bearing fits much better this way.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Scott, it looks like you got it all sorted out on your own. I posted quickly on Friday, only remembering that there is a little space from the top of the mainshaft to the outer side of the bearing center.
But after I had a chance to go back through my tranny pictures, I remembered that ed (sackdz) did the same thing you did with the syncro's. He could go through the gears too - but as soon as he put the tranny on and the car on the tires, it wouldn't shift. The helms manual is pretty fuzzy about those 5/r syncro's too - you can't visibly see a difference in the 98 manual at all. But you are correct in that the longer teeth'd syncro's go closer to the bearing whereas the smaller ones go on the bottom. Good catch. So how does it shift now? Like butter?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Brilliant! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Matt, did you seriously bump this thread just to make that comment?
Thanks for reminding me what your sn stands for!
Here, I even got you a shirt so there's no hard feelings:
The really thick synchro goes on the top with the points facing down, while the skinnier synchro should be on the bottom. The bearing fits much better this way.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Scott, it looks like you got it all sorted out on your own. I posted quickly on Friday, only remembering that there is a little space from the top of the mainshaft to the outer side of the bearing center.
But after I had a chance to go back through my tranny pictures, I remembered that ed (sackdz) did the same thing you did with the syncro's. He could go through the gears too - but as soon as he put the tranny on and the car on the tires, it wouldn't shift. The helms manual is pretty fuzzy about those 5/r syncro's too - you can't visibly see a difference in the 98 manual at all. But you are correct in that the longer teeth'd syncro's go closer to the bearing whereas the smaller ones go on the bottom. Good catch. So how does it shift now? Like butter?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Brilliant! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Matt, did you seriously bump this thread just to make that comment?
Thanks for reminding me what your sn stands for!
Here, I even got you a shirt so there's no hard feelings:
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