Tom B

Just wondering what Bilt Hamber stuff you used? I am looking on the site now and they have so many different products - part of me thinks they like to use fancy words, 'experiments' & confusing text to make there product sound better. I suppose experienced professionals will have there opinions, the types of guys who have been using this stuff and the other brands on the market for decades. I've seen everyone raving about Bilt Hamber on the net but is that enough to convince me they are 'better'? They are certainly a lot more expensive.

Willing to give them a try but I am just so damn confused by all the products haha.

d.n.d.

iTrader: (5)

great thread, I am going to grease my taillight gaskets when I get the chance. They were replaced with oem ones a few years ago but no grease used.

also stupid question, did USDM cars have the same open slit/gap in the rear wheel arches??

Tom B

Is water coming into your boot? If not, I see no need to grease them.

Not sure. Check yours!

d.n.d.

iTrader: (5)

no but i have been caught out in the rain a few times

thanks I will. I am guessing the 2nd picture is where the floor meets the wheel arch?

Tom B

I'm not 100% sure. I just know where it is haha. Do you recognise it?

feck

yeah they have lots of bottles of goo alright. The ones I used were this Hydrate stuff for any areas that had existing surface rust, or it was threatening to come along. And for the cavities and inside sills and as a general coating I used this Dynax aerosol. I found it good and much easier to apply than waxoyl. The extender spray tube was great for getting into hard to reach places.

I would suspect so d.n.d. Though maybe the left hand drive cars are different in that respect? As far as I recall I saw a Dutch chap's car on another forum, left hand drive and it had the gaps. It seems to vary a lot from car to car. Some have huge gaps others none. Mine (JDM) had a small gap on the drivers, none on the passengers.

Tom B

Cheers ****.

Tom B

OE plug A/C hole installed.

Tom B

She passed her MOT this morning :-)

Looking so good underneath but still have some areas to protect. If anyone has anymore ideas for what to do & use for protection, please let me know!

Tom B

Just ordered some Bilt-Hamber Hydrate 80.

Plan to adjust the rear bumper alingment and fit my OE A/C switch lid this weekend.

feck

Yay! 0/ Nice one Sir. Though not too much of a shock considering your care and attention to detail on an already really well sorted example.

The other day mine failed the NCT(Irish MOT), but only for a slight rear brake imbalance. Basically it just needs new brake pads, so that's OK. Flew through all the other stuff like emissions. As it turns out my local testing centre has a couple of lads who are into these older Hondas and have similar cars themselves, so are keen to keep cars like ours on the road and are very helpful. One thing I noticed when mine was on the suspension testing rig, was how solid it looked. Other "ordinary" and not so ordinary cars were bouncing about under test, but the Teg just sat there, rock solid and barely moving. "Oh, so is that all you got boyo?"

You've a really lovely example there T. As for protection? IIRC there's another Bilt product that's clear so good for suspension parts and other more visible items. For me I don't much care about that and just slather on the waxoyl/bilt/WD40/Vaseline/whatever on as I see fit. I'd be paranoid about rust and given we both live in sponges in the shape of countries we're twins on that score. Fellow petrolheads reading this from Texas, Arizona and Cali are probably confused by this philosophy.

Tom B

Thanks!

Haha! Shame you don't have a video.

Tom B

OE A/C LID, SWITCH installed.

Clock lid, stereo lid and now A/C lid! Superleggera! It has been my dream to spec the car as I would from the factory, no ABS, no airbags, no A/C etc. Just like the one in the Best Motoring videos :-) I still have all the parts for if I fancy a change.

Tom B

Have a sticky left front brake caliper. Hope to replace it this weekend with a used one. Honda want Ł370+ for a new one.

My friends say, upgrade to a 282 or 300mm setup. I ask why and they say, "because it's better". Better on a track maybe but I don't have anything to prove on the road. Don't get me wrong, I put my foot down now and then of course. I will be staying with the original brake setup as not many of these cars are original anymore, that's what I like, some might think it's boring but whatever. Being a pretty rare car and getting old now, it's my opinion that they should be kept original.

feck

+1000. I like seeing guys upgrade and customise them, but equally I like to see others try to keep them as original as possible. Like you say they're getting old and you see fewer around and fewer still in original condition, certainly in my neck of the woods. Vintage cars generally see a common trajectory when they hit a low point in value on the secondhand market and a lot get trashed, upgraded, even written off. In the US I don't think this is nearly so big an issue as they've kept their value when compared to Ireland and the UK*. Theft is an issue over here, but doesn't seem to be nearly the issue it is in the US.





* they're slowly rising again, but even so in Ireland you could likely buy two with change for the price of one in the US. If you could find a decent one. Here they're nearly impossible to sell of late as the insurance industry has banded to together to restrict cover to cars 10/12 years old or under and the Integra isn't seen as old enough to be "classic insurance". You wouldn't believe what I pay for insurance, even as an old fart, from the only company who would cover me. Forget about it if you're younger.

1223

Aside from any discussion of originality, the simple truth is that we don't need a big brake setup for road driving. Good pads, good fluid, braided lines if you like, that's all you need for a light car like this. My car came with gigantic Brembos when I bought it, but what's the point? They were cool but the PO could have saved himself $3k...

I sold them on eBay to a fellow in Norway, who will be installing them on a gnarly turbo Nurburgring track car. It warms my heart knowing that those Brembos, after ~60k miles of boring stop-and-go-traffic, will get to spend their days circling the green hell.

Tom B

I too like seeing this & have toyed with the idea of Spoon wheels, N1, carbon lip etc but I don't see the point anymore (I'm 28 this month). I want to keep mine stock or very close too.

RTW DC2R

The stock brakes are even pretty capable on the track. Granted not as good as a 4 piston setup (or more) but they are more than suitable with the correct pads and fluids.

Im liking the trimmed down version of the car you have created Do you always have no intake box cover? Or was that just for the inspection?

1223 - glad to see the Brembos are going to be put to good use.

Klasse

Already quoted I know, but I have to agree too. Over here factory airboxes are now worth decent money as everyone ditched them back in the day, 262mm brakes might go the same way.

If you can get hold of 77240-ST7-Z00ZA it is the carbony radio lid to match the dash.

Tom B

Refurbished my plug wire cover & manifold heat shield. Engine bay is starting to look respectable. Yes I know it's crying out for a new/resprayed valve cover!

Tom B

I took the lid off for about a week as I was curious to hear how it sounded without!

Tom B

I'd like one. The only reason I got the normal version is because it was half the price of the carbon one.

I just checked at Honda and they are no longer available.

RTW DC2R

Did it make a difference?

feck

Great job on the plug and the manifold covers.

Tom B

To the sound? Yes, a big difference. It sounded awesome, especially in Vtec.