Is there any such thing as a weak engine I have almost 6,000 miles on my new car and Ive been having a hard time racing ??????????

REBORN GO **** YOUR SELF

[Modified by slipknot23, 2:45 AM 3/28/2002]


[Modified by slipknot23, 3:17 AM 4/11/2002]

 

I'm not trying to rag on you >> but improving your technique is always good too. I know I used to "really suck" at timing my shifting. I'm better now...I just "suck."

 

Huh thats funny you went from really suck to just suck

 

There are engines that are stronger/weaker than spec from the factory.
I really don't know the details, but I beleave it has to do with the bore.

Maybe someone can fill in the details :\

 

how was your break in period?

 

no that wont do ****, it has nothing to do with the ecu. Honda ecu's dont have a "memory" so to speak of how you drive like other companies (VW,Toyota....etc). resetting your ecu and then ragging your motor will not do anything. If this is the problem then why wouldn't everyone experience this problem after break in or anytime you go with out "getting on" your car in a while. dude you either got a weak motor or you cant drive.........

 

I've heard maybe its the ECU like they said. Isn't you new GSR [bold]OBD III[bold] instead of [bold]OBD II[bold]?

 

there is not such thing as OBD III on any integra

 

some cars are just fast some are just slow. it just depends if ur cars a lemon or not. i had a frend that had a stock 92 ls that had open muffler and gutted interior and he ran a 15.2 flat. how? i have no clue. wen my car was stock (4dr gsr) i ran a 15.1. i aso have another frend that had a 01 itr with the works. i/h/e, cams, cam gears, vtec controller, msd, 6 puck clutch, slicks, and other ****... and he ran a 14.5. lol wsup with that. some cars are just gifted i guess. and others arent.

 

I think I have the same problem. I think I have a weak engine. My boy has the same car like mine (1996 RS Auto). I have I/E/H and all he has is AEM Intake and custom exhaust. When we race... like at a stop light (it's a lonely street), he always comes out ahead. I always have better low end power, but after 6k rpm he takes off and my car feels slugish after 6000 rpm. It feels like it's trying too hard to go. I drove his car before, and it definately feels faster and smother acceleration that mine. We both have 17x7 wheels, but I have a complete body kit. I also have more miles than he does. I have 120xxx and he is about 40xxx. They are both '96 according to the VIN.

 

What makes you think it's your not your technique? What are your times? Who are you trying to race. You need to give us more details so we can help you out like what kind of car you have. I doubt it's the ECU that's doing it. Your ECU is constantly adjusting for your engine and the environment. It doesn't just adjust during the first 5 minutes of driving. The only reason to reset the ECU is if you do major changes to your car.

I've got a great post from Tom at Lightning Motorsports about how a Honda ECU actually works. I'll see if I can find it.

 

There are cases where a car comes out of the factory with a substantially stronger engine than the others...but this is rare...ive seen it though. But oftentimes its the driver and the drivers skill which impedes the "quickness" of the car...so I suggest you stop looking at the motor as a fault and look at yourself, and what you can do to improve your skill. even if you have a "weaker" motor from the factory, knowing whether you do or not is not really going to be any benefit. and yes slipknot, you have the weakest engine out of all the GSRs in the USA...and you cant drive for **** you idiot!!!

 

All I gotta say...

 

Ok I found that post. This was originally posted on the Honda mailing list I am on. Here you go.

-----Original Message-----
From: Tom [mailto:tbh@i-55.com]
Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2001 11:27 AM
To: hondalist@yahoogroups.com; hondalist@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [hondalist] obd1 and 2


OBD2 is not THAT bad. It actually makes thing much easier to work on if you have the right tools. As to the ECU resetting itself when you turn off the car, this is incorrect. What it boils down to is short term and long term fuel trim and how the computer is compensating. This applies to OBD1 AND OBD2. Have you ever noticed that once you do mods that the rear of the car is covered with soot. Seems contradictory to everyone telling you that intake and exhaust mods leaning the car out. Actually, both sides are right. When you do mods, the car is actually leaned out but. When driving around in closed loop mode, the computer will look at the short term fuel trim and notice that it is lean and will "ratchet" the long term fuel trim up. If it still sees lean on the short term trim, it will ratchet the long term fuel trim until it (STFT) is where it is supposed to be. This computer can correct the fuel trim up to about 20% more air flow. After this, it cannot correct. What you end up with is correction of the low-throttle and engine-speeds by the factory ECU.

Now the trick part. What the computer learns in low-throttle and engine-speeds from LTFT it uses to modify the tables for Wide Open Throttle
(Open-loop) even though the computer is not actually compensating as it was in Closed loop mode. Since the computer has been seeing lean-lean-lean, it modifies the tables for an overly rich mixture. That explains the lean and rich syptoms that both sides describe.

Typically the mods that you do will lean the car out (make more
power) but the computer will compensate for it within a half hour of driving. Something like a Apexi Super AFC works great for this. Use the AFC to trim the WOT settings only and let the ECU take care of the low-throttle and engine-speed settings. You can look at a dyno graph that has the effects on air-fuel ratio by resetting the ecu. Not much power difference but look at how much the ratio changes http://www.lightningmotorsports.com/images/ecureset.jpg Remember this happens in BOTH OBD1 AND OBD2.

The main thing about OBD2 that makes it less applicable for really high performance is that it monitors all engine parameters more closely and this can cause problems for an all-out racer. If you go to really radical camshafts, you will get an engine misfire code from the ECU because OBD2 uses a crankshaft speed fluctuation sensor to detect engine misfires. You can still put cams in the car, just nothing radical enough to set the misfire. You will get a CEL if you remove the cat since OBD2 monitors the efficiency of the cats with the fore and aft sensors. Just go with a High-flow larger diameter cat and you won't have a problem. We have dyno'd some of the new V-8 Camaros and they have shown absolutely zero horsepower gains from removing the cats (using straight pipe) on a mildly modified car. What it comes down to is that you can't be a ham-fisted mechanic with OBD2, if you work within its parameters, it will not give you trouble. If you could see some of the data that you can get out of the newer OBD2 ECUs, you would understand why I am not totally against it. I have seen (and used) OBD2 programming software for the domestic cars, and that totally rules. You can turn off misfire, rear O2 sensors, and much more than I care to list. As Hondata and others work through this, you will be wanting to keep that OBD2 computer (much faster processing) as it will be able to do whatever you want no-matter how far you want to go.

Tom (sorry for the book) http://www.lightningmotorsports.com



[Modified by mikecel79, 7:27 PM 4/10/2002]

 

Slipnut...we have gone over this once but I guess you need a refresher. You most likely suck at driving. Go steal a check from daddy and buy yourself some driving lessens.
-or-
You could do the obvious thing and go take your car to a mechanic and have him run a compression test for starters because maybe you miss-shifted while using your MaD sKiLlZ yO!
HTH and have a great day

 

its not the car... its YOU.

 

have you ever dyno'd the car?

 

the driver makes the car, not the car makes the driver...

 

Maybe the car is fast, you just expect it to be faster? Maybe it's because you have a 4-2-1 header on a GSR, and the power of a GSR is at top end(where a 4-1 header comes in play)? What size is your intake? For low end you want a 2.5 inch intake, but for top end(which I assume you want) you should get a three inch intake pipe. Maybe you just can't drive .


[Modified by B18 B e a s T, 3:05 AM 4/11/2002]

 

I also heard that Honda engineers build their motors weird. Like for each five, first two are weak, the third motor is normal, and the last two motors are built stronger. But that sounds like bs to me.

 

reborn no one asked you to post in here didnt you see it on the first box?

 

Good one pickle-smoocher
You found the edit function. Now all you need is someone to drive your tIzIte wHiP for you and you will be all set yO!
ReBorn- who still remembers this little rice boy and his failed attempt to impress people by stealing money from his parents.

 

They don't do this on purpose! Due to manufacturing tolerances and simple luck, some engines will come out making more power and some will come out making less. Hopefully their process is good enough to keep it all within a reasonable 5% or so, but it doesn't always happen.

If the car was abused during its break-in period, power output and engine longevity will also be hurt.

Strap that car onto a dyno and let's see if it really is a dud or not.

 

You need to talk to ActiveAero. He owns a MSY ITR and can shift faster than John Force himself. You need to take lessons from him. Your driving sucks.

Or

It could be the fact that your engine has 6,000 miles on it. It's still green. Give it some time. Stop raping it. Mommy will like you better if she doesn't have to replace the engine at 10k miles.
Maybe she'll buy you a new one when yours grenades itself - Who knows?

 

wtf is up with all the remarks