Ok... so after doing the timing belt and taking the exhuast cam to replace the seal, i did my Vavle adjustment. I did the cylinders in the corect order. (Just dont remeber it on the top of my head). I adjusted to specs but it still ticks. Not as loud as when i didnt adjust them. Also when they say, "slight drag" what the hell is that? What might be slight will be different to another. I did use an angle feeler. Maybe i just need to do it again? Also sometimes my belt squeeks on start up. They are all new OEM belts. Now.... could it be on too tight or do i just need some belt dressing. Thankyou honda-tech board and members.

 

help?

 

i haven't adjusted my valve lash personally, so i can't help you there... and i dont want to spread garbage around like other HT-ers.
however with your belts, mine would squeel at start up, i put some belt dressing on them and it didn't go away, i ended up tightening them... they were a tad too loose, just push on them and you should be able to tell. don't tighten them too much or leave them too loose. it's hard for me because i like to tighten things down too much ...

 

ok... i will try tighting it just a lil...thanks

 

a ticking sound can sometimes also be caused by worn lost motion assemblies, and can be mistaken for valve tick.

When I do a valve adjustment, I always used the go/no-go method. If I want a clearance of .007", I adjust it so that .007 fit, and .008 does not. Same thing for .006 on the intake, .006 should fit and .007 should not.

 

I use the same method as Patrick and haven't had any problems. Also, torque the nuts to spec (I believe it's 18 ft/lbs) when you're done, then recheck the clearances.

 

how do u torque the nuts down? i mean u need to hold the adjustable screw in place with a screw driver and then tighten it down with a modified open wrench (or use the snap on tool)? but how do u hold the screw in place while torque n it with a torque wrench? do u keep the screw loose a little bit so that the valve lash is a little loose; like instead of keeping it at .006, u keep it at .007. then u tighten it down with the torque wrench so that it will also turn the screw a little bit.

in my LS i dont torque em down- cuz i dont have a torque wrench =/ (maybe for x-mas). i just tighten it down with a screw driver and 12 mm wrench. then i use a wratchet to tighten it down. I also check the clearance after i tighten everything up to make sure something didnt get outta spec

 

hmm..thanks pat. I will do that tomorrow. and the other ticking u said. How would i be able to look for that? Thanks agin

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted k20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how do u torque the nuts down? I also check the clearance after i tighten everything up to make sure something didnt get outta spec</TD></TR></TABLE>

i just use the open end, then check the clearance again like you did. plus i always set it to the average space because there is like a +2 or +1 max to min... i just fukk up at the end and snap the valve cover head bolt.

 

Tighten the bolts down well while holding the adjustment screw. If they are already pretty tight, the screw won't turn enough when you torque it to make a difference.

 

^^^ thats what i was think n. thanks for clear n that up

 

valves do make a certain amount of clicking no matter what. what your hearing may just be normal valve noise. but if it isnt use the K.I.S.S method of figuring it out. just keep it simple to begin with. for example some people hear a knocking in their engine and just assume that its the crank or the rods which is a pain in the *** to get to. what they dont know is that it could just be a cracked flex plate, a far more simple thing to check.... neways good luck