I'm not having any luck with this post in the Tech section, so I thought I'd try here.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=51974

Also, how tight should the lock nuts be tightened?

 

If this is for a GSR 94-95 year, they specs are.....

.006-.007 intake
.007-.008 exhaust

Torque specs on the lock nut 14ft/lbs

Do them 1,3,4,2 in sequence.

 

Ya, I followd those steps and the valves are stil noisey.

My only guess would be that the lock nuts wheren't torqued to proper specs.

 

Did you recheck the clearance after you tighten the lug nut?

 

Yup, I sure did. I even went over all of them again.

Since it was my first time, I'm guessing maybe my judgement wasn't right.

When the Helms says, until you feel a "slight drag" on the feeler gauge, how slight, veeeery slight? Or just under "firm".

I sound confusing don't I?

 

"slight drag" is under firm. Not too tight, but definitely not loose. Kinda hard to type..most easiest shown in person for sure! You manually cranked the motor for TDC for each cylinder, right? Just checkin

 

Try doing this, for your intake it is stated the clearance should be between .006 to .007, well for me I like to adjust it to the closest setting, so I make sure the feeler guage of .006 will slide in but the .007 won't. You can do the same with the exhaust side except to the clearance of .007 to .008. Remember the intake side is the one facing the firewall and exhaust is facing the front of the car.

 

Actually, I did just that.
I'm going to have to go back and double check all the valves again. So, the valve adjusting should reduce the valve tapping noise, am I correct?

Also, I don't have a torqing wrench, how tight do you tighten the lock nuts? I tightened them fairly tight, should I not have?

 

LeeChun: Yup, I manually cranked the motor. Hmmm... I think I may have left the gap a little too big, because I interpretted "slight drag", as a veeeery slight drag.

So what's the culprit of valve tapping? Is it that the gaps are too large? Or lock nuts are loose? ???

 

is there enough oil in your teg?

 

Last I checked was a few weeks ago and it was ok. I'll double check again today.

 

Actually there should be a slight "tapping" noise from the valve. Remember you are adjusting the valves to factory specifications, which means that the valves will be contacting the valve seat. The contact between the valve and the valve seat will result in a slight "tapping" noise. Now if you do not hear a slight "tapping" noise, then the valves were adjusted to "tight". Which means that the valves are not contacting the valve seats. If the valves do not contact the valve seat, the engine will not hold the compression, which can lead to what is called a burnt valve. So it is better to adjust on the high side of the spec. For instance if the spec. is .006 - .007 for the intake valve, it is safer to be closer to .007 than to .006 especially when interpreting Honda's/Acura's "slight drag" on the feeler gauge terminoligy.

HTH

 

Hey, thank's BSQ.

I do have a few more questions.

Does it matter which why the crankshaft is rotated? (CCW or CW?)
Does the crankshaft have to be torqued back to spec?
How tight should the nuts be tightened if one where not using a torquing wrench.

Thanks!

 

Yes, it does matter. I believe that the you should rotate the crankshaft in a clockwise direction. I'm 99% sure on that, but I will need to consult my Helms manual tonight to confirm. If you rotate the crank the wrong direction then you will be loosing the tension on the timing belt which can affect the alignment of the cam gears.


No, ask long as you did not loosen the crankshaft bolt (very unlikely since it is torqued to approx. 150 ft./lbs.) you do not need to retorque it.


I personally DO NOT torque the nuts with a torque wrench. The reason being is that you would need a special torque wrench that is specifically meant for low torque setting such as 5 - 20 ft/lbs. I prefer to hand tighten them. Just tighten the nuts to what you feel is specified torque (ie. guesstimate).

 

Thanks for your help BSQ! The Helms says CCW, but I maybe have been turning the crankshaft CW on certain occasions.

sponge: I really wouldn't know the difference! I don't have any mechanic buddies that can help me out! Doh.

 

Sponge: To add in... I find that after installing the CAI, the tapping has become more pronounced, especially under full throttle acceleration. Can I be confident that it's the valves that are tapping in this case?

 

whoops.. ohh well in 800 some odd post thats the first time I have double posted so I guess its not to bad.... haha


[Modified by GS-Racer01, 9:19 AM 7/17/2001]

 

you sure its your valves still tappping and not your injectors clicking, and also remember that they will still make some noise. Did you put your ear on the valve cover?? Cause the method LostGSR sdescribes is really the best way to do it and should work and yes you MUST turn the crank CCW every time not CW unless you got an RSX..

 

the easiest way to turn the motor is to put it in 5th gear and pull the car forward, the cam gears should turn 1/4 turn each step. it does sound like your valves to me, i wouldn't think you would hear your injectors at WOT. check to see if your springs aren't worn, try pushing on them with your hand to see if you can depress the valve, you shouldn't be able to. good luck

 

nsane: Thanks for the tip on checking the valve springs. I'm gonna redo everything today and see if I can do it properly this time.