vafc settings
#2
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LOL. Unless you are running some serious horsepower like Turbo,NOS, Supercharge,fully built N/A than engine managment is for you. VAFC Ok for starter when add some 50-150Hp to the engine but I would rather get some better Stuff like Hondata, EMS AEM, standalone, etc.. I don't think that the VAFC will help too much when all you have is I/H/E. If you really want it done right get it tune. The average cost is around $75-$150. due to everycar is different and need to be tune to it's need. I'll bet you probably get about 10whp if you are lucky.
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Re: (LoseRPunKx182)
How do you know you're running rich? Most people consider I/H/E stock still.
Anyway, us telling you settings for our S-AFC/V-AFC won't help you. Every car is a little different. What works for me most probably will not work for you. As the above poster said, if you really want to do it correctly, you will want to get it tuned at a dyno facility.
Just changing settings yourself here and there might yield some power on the butt dyno, but everyone knows how unreliable that is. You'll probably be losing power.
Anyway, us telling you settings for our S-AFC/V-AFC won't help you. Every car is a little different. What works for me most probably will not work for you. As the above poster said, if you really want to do it correctly, you will want to get it tuned at a dyno facility.
Just changing settings yourself here and there might yield some power on the butt dyno, but everyone knows how unreliable that is. You'll probably be losing power.
#5
Re: (shamoo)
just simply put everything to "0" or if u have the aem air fuel then u can definitely see where your car stands...thats what i did with mine...but considering all bolt on without cams, u should be good without doing any changes on the vafc...
#6
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Re: (smkngsr)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smkngsr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just simply put everything to "0" or if u have the aem air fuel then u can definitely see where your car stands...thats what i did with mine...but considering all bolt on without cams, u should be good without doing any changes on the vafc...</TD></TR></TABLE>
what would '0' yield? wouldn't that just not do anything lol
i have a air/fuel gauge and it's running a few 'bars' in rich at idle
what would '0' yield? wouldn't that just not do anything lol
i have a air/fuel gauge and it's running a few 'bars' in rich at idle
#7
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Re: (LoseRPunKx182)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LoseRPunKx182 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what would '0' yield? wouldn't that just not do anything lol
i have a air/fuel gauge and it's running a few 'bars' in rich at idle</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, "0" would be stock. And that's what you should keep it at until you go to a dyno facility where they can measure your air/fuel the CORRECT way. Air/Fuel gauges like you have are grossely inaccurate. Plus, keep in mind, that there are hundreds of factors as to why the ECU is doing what it's doing. Temperature, humidity, engine load, etc.
i have a air/fuel gauge and it's running a few 'bars' in rich at idle</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, "0" would be stock. And that's what you should keep it at until you go to a dyno facility where they can measure your air/fuel the CORRECT way. Air/Fuel gauges like you have are grossely inaccurate. Plus, keep in mind, that there are hundreds of factors as to why the ECU is doing what it's doing. Temperature, humidity, engine load, etc.
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#9
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LOL. What you have is Narrowband O2 (your A/F stuff) it's not very accurate. what you need is a Wideband O2 and than you can probably tune it yourself. Research Narrowband O2 vs. Wideband O2 and you will know the different between the two. I don't think you know what running RICH is. Before my turbocharge GSR was tune, I was getting 12-14mpg and foul many spark plugs. Now that it's tune, I'm getting a solid 28mpg.
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