I am a bit confused on what "tuning" my I-H-E setup involves.
Sorry if this is a noob question but after searching I'm more confused than when I started.
I don't plan on doing any more mods to the engine, I am happy with the added zip the IHE hadon my lightweight 1998 RS.
So, what kind of tuning do I need to do?
1. Just fuel tuning to get the A/F ratio correct?
2.Fuel tuning plus tuning the ecu?
3. ????
BTW, I just had the engine light come on two weeks ago and after disconnecting the battery cable have not seen the light reappear yet. However, I now wish that I had left the light on so that I could have checked out the code. My guess is that my OBDII ecu is not happy with the current A/F mix or something else exhaust related since that is all that I have modified on my car.
Help the noob please

 

you are correct -- you're ecu is most likely throwing the CEL because you're mods are making the car produce less than desirable emissions for your stock ECU.

To tune, you'll need to get your ECU chipped with something like crome, or you could get a daughterboard system like hondata. Then you'll buy dyno time to program your ECU with the proper fuel map to get the most power from your bolt ons... You might even want to invest in something like a zeitronix system, that will allow you to monitor your AFR realtime, as well as tune your car yourself if you choose to add more mods later.

 

Does anyone know what the gains are roughly a LS will gain after adding i/h/e ?

I have been driving for awhile now with just short ram intake and cat-back exhaust and i want to replace the stock headers with some 4-2-1. So i know this will make it all work together better now but should I notice a decent increase in acceleration now??

 

no need to tune with I,H,E. they dont do **** anywayss. save the money for internals and then tune it

 

There's no point in Tuning a LS with I-H-E. Its not cost effective. You'll gain probably 5-6whp. Not worth the money.

 

This is what a stock 1994 LS did with a JDM 4-1 header, straight pipe, ITR b-pipe, stock muffler, AEM ITR CAI, cam gears and Hondata-tuned:

 

I think that my Air/Fuel ratio needs to be adjusted for the increased air flowing through thanks to my I-H-E setup. I am not looking for much more horsepower I want the engine to run smoother through the power range. If I don’t need a tune, what do I need to have done to adjust the A/F ratio? I thought that the OBD-II ecu might adjust for the flow (and it has some)but it looks like it still needs to be adjusted more.

And, I don’t know about others but my I-H-E setup has definitely made a difference. You have to choose wisely when piecing together your system. I have a Comptech Ice Box, Edelbrock Pro Flo 4-2-1 header, and 2.25”Comptech catback. This setup has given a nice increase in power and it’s not too loud.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 520lbGIANT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think that my Air/Fuel ratio needs to be adjusted for the increased air flowing through thanks to my I-H-E setup. </TD></TR></TABLE>
You are correct. The stock ECU is inadequate to compensate for the increased flow you get when you install a better header, intake, and exhaust system. The stock ECU does not even correctly control the A/F ratio on a bone stock engine! The stock ECU on the previously mentioned 1994 Integra LS allowed the mixture to go to 14:1 at 3200 RPM. From 5,000 RPM to redline the stock ECU had the mixture at 12:1. Simply by tuning for a 13:1 air fuel ratio on the bone stock engine it picked up 7 ft-lbs. of torque at 3100 RPM and 3 peak HP.
If you want to get the most out of your setup get Hondata or Crome and have the car professionally tuned. This will involve an OBD2 to OBD1 adapter harness and an OBD1 chipped ECU, but it will be well worth the investment.

 

If i want to keep the OBDII ecu (making inspections easier) what would you recommend?...maybe something like the Greddy e-manage system?

 

You can run a VAFC or E-manage/Emanage Ultimate, but those would not be my first choices. The AEM EMS is not a bad choice.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b19coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can run a VAFC or E-manage/Emanage Ultimate, but those would not be my first choices. The AEM EMS is not a bad choice.</TD></TR></TABLE>

a little too much for bolt on's, no?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC2SiR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no need to tune with I,H,E. they dont do **** anywayss. save the money for internals and then tune it</TD></TR></TABLE>

worthless post

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doood &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a little too much for bolt on's, no?</TD></TR></TABLE>
There is no such thing as too much engine management. My favorite to tune are the Hondata S300 and the AEM EMS, but it's whatever the customer wants.
I don't care for the VAFC/SAFC/Emanage style of engine management because they 'fool' the stock ECU into running on a different column of the map.

 

I think doood meant the cost of the AEM EMS was a little too much. It costs quite a bit more than my whole IHE setup.
I am just trying to find an economical way to adjust my A/F ratio and optimize the bolt ons that I have. I do not expect to get a large gain in hp, just wanted to improve the power curve and make the engine run smoother.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MINTGRN4DR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">worthless post </TD></TR></TABLE>

ditto

and represent va beach

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MINTGRN4DR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

worthless post </TD></TR></TABLE>

so is tuning an LS with I/H/E worthless?? cuz thats my current set-up?? I'm also throwing a CEL. also....if you get something like hondata, do you still need a SAFC???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integra racr04 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so is tuning an LS with I/H/E worthless??</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, tuning is very worthwhile. You will get the best performance possible out of your mods, and the vehicle will run better at idle and part throttle too. If you run Hondata or Crome, ditch the SAFC/VAFC.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC2SiR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no need to tune with I,H,E. they dont do **** anywayss. save the money for internals and then tune it</TD></TR></TABLE>

no the abocve post/ comment/ reply is worthless ie boltons dont do **** and dont tune if all you are doing is bolt ons then yes you should tune but if you plan on upgrading internals wait!