Tranny Overhaul & JDM ITR Final Drive/LSD Install (56k...not so much)
03-17-2004, 05:43 PM
#51
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IN VTEC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Something I noticed is that the enclosed bearings don't leave as much differential exposed as the old exposed bearings.
[/i]</TD></TR></TABLE>
The new diff bearings look correct on the lsd
03-17-2004, 08:30 PM
#52
Re: (Dan GSR)
Thanks for the life saver tip willard!
I plan to do a 3rd gear syncro change this weekend.
Dropping the tranny tommorow and opening it up. I plan to also make a thread with pics of my internals to see what you guys think of the condition of it.
I already bought a 2 teeth gear puller that extends a tad of 6". It was a 29.99 craftsman but if I don't need it then that is even better off.
I plan to do a 3rd gear syncro change this weekend.
Dropping the tranny tommorow and opening it up. I plan to also make a thread with pics of my internals to see what you guys think of the condition of it.
I already bought a 2 teeth gear puller that extends a tad of 6". It was a 29.99 craftsman but if I don't need it then that is even better off.
03-17-2004, 08:35 PM
#54
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Re: (B2FiNiTY)
That 2-jaw puller from Sears is too big to be pulling gears off the shafts. I have one of those and I'll probably use it in conjunction with the bearing splitter I have to pull the gears or just rent the posi-lock 3-jaw puller (recommended by Willard) from Autozone. We've also used that Sears piece to pull the hubs off the axles and crankshaft pulley off on 240's...so it's not totally useless.
03-18-2004, 10:15 AM
#57
Re: (low91teg)
I've started to drop the tranny. Just waiting on a friend to give me a hand so I can pull the axles out. Will be posting pics once I start opening it up.
03-18-2004, 10:19 AM
#58
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Re: (low91teg)
i'm considering throwing an ITR helical into my SiRII tranny soon and i've got a couple amateur questions for you.
ive dissasembled two trannies and reasembled one so i get the basic concepts adressed in your write up,
first off i'm curious if its nessecary to remove the reverse idler and cange holder assembly to get the gearsets out.
second question is regarding the bearings. i've heard that some of the ITRs have roller bearings and some have larger ball bearings, any advice about which is best ,
third question: (kinda stupid but i'm curious) if the stock diff uses a tapered roller bearing and the new diff uses a non tapered bearing wouldn't the clutch housing casting be made to accept only tapered, how does the flat sided bearing fit?
sorry for the long list of questions, and i appreciate any advice/info you can give me.
ive dissasembled two trannies and reasembled one so i get the basic concepts adressed in your write up,
first off i'm curious if its nessecary to remove the reverse idler and cange holder assembly to get the gearsets out.
second question is regarding the bearings. i've heard that some of the ITRs have roller bearings and some have larger ball bearings, any advice about which is best ,
third question: (kinda stupid but i'm curious) if the stock diff uses a tapered roller bearing and the new diff uses a non tapered bearing wouldn't the clutch housing casting be made to accept only tapered, how does the flat sided bearing fit?
sorry for the long list of questions, and i appreciate any advice/info you can give me.
03-18-2004, 10:47 AM
#59
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Re: (thad)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">first off i'm curious if its nessecary to remove the reverse idler and cange holder assembly to get the gearsets out.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Dan says no. He skips that part. I'm still a novice at it, so I did it the first two times, but I'll be skipping it from now on.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">second question is regarding the bearings. i've heard that some of the ITRs have roller bearings and some have larger ball bearings, any advice about which is best, </TD></TR></TABLE>
Most people switch over to the enclosed bearings b/c they're easier to set the differential-to-casing clearance/preload.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">third question: (kinda stupid but i'm curious) if the stock diff uses a tapered roller bearing and the new diff uses a non tapered bearing wouldn't the clutch housing casting be made to accept only tapered, how does the flat sided bearing fit?</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you're swapping from the tapered (exposed) bearings to the enclosed roller bearings, you remove the outer race that's interference-fit into both of the casing halves. I'm just now getting ready to add that section.
Dan says no. He skips that part. I'm still a novice at it, so I did it the first two times, but I'll be skipping it from now on.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">second question is regarding the bearings. i've heard that some of the ITRs have roller bearings and some have larger ball bearings, any advice about which is best, </TD></TR></TABLE>
Most people switch over to the enclosed bearings b/c they're easier to set the differential-to-casing clearance/preload.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">third question: (kinda stupid but i'm curious) if the stock diff uses a tapered roller bearing and the new diff uses a non tapered bearing wouldn't the clutch housing casting be made to accept only tapered, how does the flat sided bearing fit?</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you're swapping from the tapered (exposed) bearings to the enclosed roller bearings, you remove the outer race that's interference-fit into both of the casing halves. I'm just now getting ready to add that section.
03-18-2004, 11:06 AM
#60
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Re: (IN VTEC)
No info on what you did with the rest of the final drive parts....I thought there was a lot more to it than just the final drive gear.
I got my ITR LSD with tapered bearings already on it. Didn't see a reason to swap them out. Running great so far. I guess the only reason to put the non-tapered ones is because it's a pain to compress the tapered ones to put them on right?
I also used a bottle of KAAZ LSD mtf.
It is easier to duct tape the 3 rods with gears together before pulling out the whole gear setup. Just a precaution
Also, Don't forget to Hondabond your diff casing when putting it back on.
I got my ITR LSD with tapered bearings already on it. Didn't see a reason to swap them out. Running great so far. I guess the only reason to put the non-tapered ones is because it's a pain to compress the tapered ones to put them on right?
I also used a bottle of KAAZ LSD mtf.
It is easier to duct tape the 3 rods with gears together before pulling out the whole gear setup. Just a precaution
Also, Don't forget to Hondabond your diff casing when putting it back on.
03-18-2004, 11:10 AM
#61
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Re: (Boofster)
There is, but I'm working bit by bit whenever I have time. For me to do the entire write-up in one sitting was gonna be too much, so I'm trying to do it as I go.
03-18-2004, 12:31 PM
#62
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Re: (IN VTEC)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IN VTEC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Dan says no. He skips that part. I'm still a novice at it, so I did it the first two times, but I'll be skipping it from now on.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
careful now
i said don't take the change holder apart
you will need to take the reverse idler , and its holder out
also the change holder assembly must come out to get the shift forks to come out, to get the main and counter shaft out
you can take the change holder apart if you'd like, but there is no need, and its sometimes a PITA to put back together
Dan says no. He skips that part. I'm still a novice at it, so I did it the first two times, but I'll be skipping it from now on.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
careful now
i said don't take the change holder apart
you will need to take the reverse idler , and its holder out
also the change holder assembly must come out to get the shift forks to come out, to get the main and counter shaft out
you can take the change holder apart if you'd like, but there is no need, and its sometimes a PITA to put back together
03-18-2004, 12:35 PM
#63
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (Boofster)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boofster »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It is easier to duct tape the 3 rods with gears together before pulling out the whole gear setup. </TD></TR></TABLE>
yikes
no need to tape anything
you can just let the shift rods fall out, when you yank to the two gear shafts
It is easier to duct tape the 3 rods with gears together before pulling out the whole gear setup. </TD></TR></TABLE>
yikes
no need to tape anything
you can just let the shift rods fall out, when you yank to the two gear shafts
03-18-2004, 06:05 PM
#68
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Re: (jdmbran)
eagerly awaiting pics and write up of the bearing race removal procedure.
the thing boofster said about the duct tape didn't seem like all that bad an idea for the ghetto DIYer, me and a friend held the whole gearset and shaft assembley as we lifter it out and set it aside as one piece.
the thing boofster said about the duct tape didn't seem like all that bad an idea for the ghetto DIYer, me and a friend held the whole gearset and shaft assembley as we lifter it out and set it aside as one piece.
03-18-2004, 09:01 PM
#69
Re: (thad)
I got the tranny off today and took a break from all that. I have to wait for the parts to come but if I feel anxious enough, I'll open the casing tonight. Pics to come and of course more questions!
03-20-2004, 08:46 PM
#75
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Re: (B2FiNiTY)
You're making better progress than I am right now. I'm waiting on replacement bearings and a shim from Baranco. It'll be next weekend before I finish.