Calavera

excellent post.

iH8RICERZ

iTrader: (1)

holy crap!!! now thats what you call a helpful write up!

:SAVE AS FAVORITES: for future reference

gsr-2nr

good stuff

db8sirg

thats awsome stuff man. i think i found a tranny tech for me hahaha.

Tweakmeister

I'm impressed

mmuller

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dan GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

one tip for getting the snap ring back onto the countershaft, when sealing the case:
expand the ring over the bearing
tighten a couple bolts that hold the case together, 8 will do
flip the case upside down, and gently tap it on a piece of wood, you should hear the snap ring click into place
</TD></TR></TABLE>


best trick evar

91integraLSVTEC

wow! need more input!

B2FiNiTY

iTrader: (2)

How would I remove the gears from the shaft without a press? Also how would I put the gears back on without a press?

Going to do a syncro change this weekend and this thread is going to help a ton!

B2FiNiTY

iTrader: (2)

What is the 10mm allen head for?

Dan GSR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B2FiNiTY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How would I remove the gears from the shaft without a press? Also how would I put the gears back on without a press?

Going to do a syncro change this weekend and this thread is going to help a ton! </TD></TR></TABLE>

you don't need a press
to take off the gears you will need a gear puller
and to put them back on i use a pipe with a inner diameter a little bigger than the diameter of the shaft

Dan GSR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B2FiNiTY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What is the 10mm allen head for? </TD></TR></TABLE>

10mm allen bolt is for the oil gutter plate
no need to take that out, just leave that in

B2FiNiTY

iTrader: (2)

How much for a gear puller and exactly which one? Is there a way to do it without a gear puller? I just went to sears yesterday for all the stuff but don't mind going again to make sure I have all the right tools.

Dan GSR

impossible without gear puller, as some gears are pressed on, and won't come off with just prying it, which would also cause damage

i would go buy a three jaw gear puller, of the large variety

Dan GSR

6" puller should do the trick

B2FiNiTY

iTrader: (2)

Will a 2 jaw puller work or should I get the 2-3 jaw puller?
Small or large?

Let me pull up some links.

B2FiNiTY

iTrader: (2)

Craftsman 2 Jaw Small Gear Puller
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr...blink

Craftsman 2 Jaw Large Gear Puller
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr...CRAFT

Craftsman 2-3 Jaw Gear Puller
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr...CRAFT

This is getting expensive.

Mikizzle

dang nice write up. this will help me in the near future. props for going through all this trouble to post and take pictures. nice

Dan GSR

2 jaw puller will work, I use one, because thats all i have, but if i were to buy one i'd get a 3 jaw, the 2 jaw is a pain sometimes, because u have to keep it from moving around as your pull the gear off, with a three jaw, it will balance itself out

i will probably buy 3 jaw eventually

you will need a large 3 jaw puller
not sure if any of the ones you listed are large enough

you will probably need something that has a 6" jaw, as the shaft is pretty deep
might be able to find something at autozone, or similar

it is a very simple tool, and hard to **** up such a simple design
a cheap one should do you ok, but the more expensive ones def show their quality in materials

Dan GSR

the large 2 jaw looks similar to the one i have, acutally mine looks a bit cheaper

Dan GSR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B2FiNiTY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Going to do a syncro change this weekend and this thread is going to help a ton! </TD></TR></TABLE>

do you have a helms manual?
the syncro sleeve ring goes on a very specific way
the sleeve has 3 pairs of raised teeth that needs to go in a specific spot on the syncros, it can be installed wrong, and will go on wrong

and you will find out the hard way if you did it incorrectly

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B2FiNiTY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

This is getting expensive. </TD></TR></TABLE>

hella cheaper than having a transmission place do it,
plus after you've done it once, its easy, and can charge other ppl to do it for them

Dan GSR

I never take the pin out of the shift rod, unless, i'm changing transmission completly

i just remove the rod from the car, and leave it attached to the trans

that pin is spec'd to a very tight tolerence
and doesn't need to be taken out uneccesarily
also its sometimes stubborn, so i don't even deal with it, much much easier to take out the 12mm head bolt from the shifter

Dan GSR

also you its good to have another person to help you open the case
its damn impossible to expand the ring ,and pry the case open at the same time by yourself
same goes for closing the case

an extra person will also come in handly when it comes time to put in both gear shafts, and shifter forks back in the case, although it can be done solo, and have learned how to do that portion by myself

Willard

Nice write up.

More info:

When using Honda bond I use a dental tool and punch a small hole in the tube and squeeze it out in a nice thin line.

A nice dental pick helps with the small stuff.

As for a puller.. use this one:

Expensive ($104 me thinks it is a (4")) (6" = $139) but worth every penny.

The main thing that holds the case apart when you try to put it back together is this shaft:


I use the dental tool/screwdriver to move the shaft around a little bit so the case will fall back together. If the case does not touch all the way around (without force) there is something hung up.

The bearing on the top of the shaft usually stays in the case when you separate the cases.

The metal washer (with the tab) that is right under the bearing has a set position that it needs to be in before the cases are bolted together. Look inside of the outer case and you can see the channel that the tab goes into.

I always bolt the case together with 4 or 5 bolts (no Hondabond) and check to make sure that all of the gears work and there is no binding. I 'hate' semi-crusty Hondabond.

As for the 'tool' to put the gears back onto the shaft... I was given a home made tool that is a piece of aluminum tubing that fits into the gear just right and it has a cap that can be used for hammering on.
Anybody want a picture of it?


Modified by Willard at 3:37 PM 3/17/2004

Willard

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B2FiNiTY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Going to do a syncro change this weekend and this thread is going to help a ton! </TD></TR></TABLE>
You don't need the puller to do a 3/4 syncro change.

and the Helms book has a misprint on the 3/4 slider piece orientation... just put the new one in like the old one came out (or set the outter ring grove to match the Helms).

IN VTEC

iTrader: (3)

More stuff added.

I'm getting there....bit by bit.

Thanks Dan and Willard for the help thus far. It really helps to have you guys add in what you guys can to make this a truly definitive tranny post.