TPS problems?
So about a week ago I am driving my car running just fine stop at a store get back in and notice the idle is very weak...... bogging down to 500 and back up to 900 I start driving hit 3500 rpms and the car bucks very hard and the check engine light comes on. Now I notice something is very wrong no matter which gear or if I press in the clutch the tach bounces off 3500. So when I get home I stick the paper clip in the harness on the passenger side and it blinks 7 times " TPS problem " So I ordered the part and meanwhile kept the car parked had to drive it a few times before I got the part and sometimes it would run fine others not.... sometimes it would just shake between 3500 and 4500 off and on. Got the part installed it today started it up same problem.... then it went away after 10 mins of diving and then started acting up again? Does anyone know why this might be?
Please post the code you got. Makes things easier.
Take a sewing needle and backprobe the center wire on the tps. At idle fully closed throttle, you voltage value should be around .5 volts. At wop (wide open throttle) you voltage value should be around 4.5 volts.
More info would be nice. Year models mods, milage, and aftermarket wiring, and recent wiring
Take a sewing needle and backprobe the center wire on the tps. At idle fully closed throttle, you voltage value should be around .5 volts. At wop (wide open throttle) you voltage value should be around 4.5 volts.
More info would be nice. Year models mods, milage, and aftermarket wiring, and recent wiring
Please post the code you got. Makes things easier.
Take a sewing needle and backprobe the center wire on the tps. At idle fully closed throttle, you voltage value should be around .5 volts. At wop (wide open throttle) you voltage value should be around 4.5 volts.
More info would be nice. Year models mods, milage, and aftermarket wiring, and recent wiring
Take a sewing needle and backprobe the center wire on the tps. At idle fully closed throttle, you voltage value should be around .5 volts. At wop (wide open throttle) you voltage value should be around 4.5 volts.
More info would be nice. Year models mods, milage, and aftermarket wiring, and recent wiring
Code 7
1995 Integra GS-R 4 door, roughly 100,000 on B18C, Injen intake, Greddy exhaust, NGKs I also just replaced fuel filter a few weeks ago.
Update I reset my ECU last night "pulled the fuse and disconnected the battery" started the car up after about fifteen minutes went inside while it idled came back after five minutes and the fumes from the car were burning my eyes like alcohol the garage door was open too! So I immediately shut off the car and notice a black soot all over the ground from my exhaust pipe. Started it up took it to work and back today ran perfect despite the CEL being on and still throwing a code seven after I reset the ECU last night. Ran fine until a mile away from my house I took off in first and before I knew it the tach is bouncing off 3500 in every gear AGAIN!!! So I shut off the car start it back up and drive home problem free WTF is going on with my car?
Did you fix the problem? My car did that a few months ago. The tach needle just bouced rapidly around the same rpms as yours. I had a bad wire in my distributor. It was a wire going to the ignitor that was bad.
Last edited by JmurGSR98; Aug 7, 2010 at 12:57 PM. Reason: more info
Sounds like a loose wire on the TPS sensor is causing an intermittant loss of voltage to the computer. That is why it comes and goes. 3500 rpm seams to be a common place for TPS to cause misfires followed by a surge. A loose wire at the TPS could also cause the MAP sensor and cause issues and effect the Air fuel mixture ratio. Get out your meter and check the voltages on both sensors and wiggle to wires while doing it.
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