Timing belt replacement, do I really need it?
My car has 93,500 miles on it and the manual recommends timing belt replacement at 90,000 miles. Have any of you had it done? I don't know if I really need it. The car runs great still. Only problems are: probably needs valve adjustment and the distributor housing sqeaks(is getting replaced soon.) Your advice is appreciated.
Timing belt is something I would not take chances on.
I replaced mine at 70,000 miles but I still check it visually every time I do a
valve clearance adjustment.
I replaced mine at 70,000 miles but I still check it visually every time I do a
valve clearance adjustment.
Yes Yes Yes -> replace it!! While they're in there, replace the water pump as well. You're paying a $hipload of money just for the labor to replace a $10 part.... take advantage of that and do the replacements.
Trending Topics
i replaced my belt and pump, original parts from acura cost me about $100 for both, and a whole day of work to put it in. here in CT they wanted to charge me $600 at the dealership for parts and labor. i got new tires for $430 and a 12 pack instead
.
see http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/t...elt/tbelt.html
for help.
good luck with the crank pulley bolt.
change the pump, it like a freebee while ure in there, it was easier then changing sparkplugs
.
.see http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/t...elt/tbelt.html
for help.
good luck with the crank pulley bolt.
change the pump, it like a freebee while ure in there, it was easier then changing sparkplugs
.
water pump is like 85 bucks, look up mike k he'll deal you one.
im going to order from him soon when i get more money, im buying a whole 90k tuneup kit.
proabably the most important tune up is hte 90k one...
im going to order from him soon when i get more money, im buying a whole 90k tuneup kit.
proabably the most important tune up is hte 90k one...
$200 yourself (t belt, w. pump, tens. bearing, drive belts, valve adj)
$700 dealer (for same as above plus valve cover gaskets and a warranty)
$4000 later if you don't do it
$700 dealer (for same as above plus valve cover gaskets and a warranty)
$4000 later if you don't do it
The acura dealer ship I went to said a major maintenance service should be done every 30,000 miles and will cost about 300~400 bucks. I forgot the exact amount. 

Are you talking about replacing the tensioner bearing? I haven't heard that one before. Also, if the water pump is still working, I don't think I want to bother changing it. I know its right there, but it could last another 50,000 miles or more.
The acura dealer here replaces the tensioner bearing as part of their timing belt service. It doesn't matter to me if it needs it or not; I'd replace it while it's all apart in the name of preventive maintenance. Even by paying the extra $50 for a new bearing, I still saved $500 by doing it myself. And once I had the old one off, it DID make a little noise when spun; whereas the new one did not.
90integraGS
Nice car. I'm wondering, at 180,000 is it burning any oil. Your engine bay is really clean too. What parts do you need to cover if you spray it down with cleaner and the hose?
Also, when changing the water pump, does the new one just bolt right in or do you need that liquid gasket stuff. How do you install it?
[Modified by Trench, 3:13 PM 10/17/2001]
Nice car. I'm wondering, at 180,000 is it burning any oil. Your engine bay is really clean too. What parts do you need to cover if you spray it down with cleaner and the hose?
Also, when changing the water pump, does the new one just bolt right in or do you need that liquid gasket stuff. How do you install it?
[Modified by Trench, 3:13 PM 10/17/2001]
do it , it will break shiot if it snaps dont pay honda to do it though, get someone that knows the **** and do it for cost of the belt, which is like $20-40
My car has over 193k and burns nothing except when excessivley raced (normal)
The new wp bolts right in. Use an OEM pump from honda and you dont need ant sealer. For washing, cover the distributor, battery, fuse box, main wire harness connector, put paper towels down the spark plug holes.
The new wp bolts right in. Use an OEM pump from honda and you dont need ant sealer. For washing, cover the distributor, battery, fuse box, main wire harness connector, put paper towels down the spark plug holes.
You should replace the belt at 80-90k. Honda/Acura now recommends 90k but on the older models, it was 80k. And since you are pass 90k, I HIGHLY recommend you change it immeditately because if the timing belt snaps, so goes your engine. If you don't want to spend the $700 that the dealer charges, go to a independent smaller reputable shop that can usally can replace the timing belt and water pump for around $400+ or a minus a little bit. Or my suggestion is to buy the timing belt and water direct from Honda and get it done for just labor for around $200-$300. You won't have to worry about it for another 80k-90k. Only problem is if you get it replace at a smaller idependent shop, they don't use OEM parts unless you tell them too. And usually these aftermarket parts have a change interval of 60k for the timing belt.
I think I might try it myself. It doesn't look that difficult.
I understand the importance of the timing belt. If it breaks and the engine is running you could end up with bent valves and or damaged pistons. I'm not stupid, I was just wondering if the factory suggested interval was overkill. Some times they suggest things way before they need to be done. Probably going to change the belt out in the next two weeks or so.
Trench-
I've had my girlfriend watch the tailpipe while I ran it to redline in 2nd and 3rd; she said there was no smoke at all!
That pic was taken with about 150K miles immediately after I stripped the valve cover; I've never spray washed the engine bay. I don't have a garage and I don't want to do it at a public car wash where I wouldn't be able to let it dry properly before starting it. It seems to me that all the electrical connections plus the distributor plus the alternator should be covered. And then what if one of the fluid caps blows off under the water pressure?
The water pump bolts right in, no gasket stuff required; although when you remove that biga** antifreeze drain bolt under the exhaust manifold, that DOES require gasket stuff on the threads when you reinstall it.
If you do it yourself, I recommend following the manual very very carefully.
[Modified by 90integraGS, 6:53 AM 10/18/2001]
I've had my girlfriend watch the tailpipe while I ran it to redline in 2nd and 3rd; she said there was no smoke at all!
That pic was taken with about 150K miles immediately after I stripped the valve cover; I've never spray washed the engine bay. I don't have a garage and I don't want to do it at a public car wash where I wouldn't be able to let it dry properly before starting it. It seems to me that all the electrical connections plus the distributor plus the alternator should be covered. And then what if one of the fluid caps blows off under the water pressure?
The water pump bolts right in, no gasket stuff required; although when you remove that biga** antifreeze drain bolt under the exhaust manifold, that DOES require gasket stuff on the threads when you reinstall it.
If you do it yourself, I recommend following the manual very very carefully.
[Modified by 90integraGS, 6:53 AM 10/18/2001]
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
animated_life
Acura Integra
24
Oct 22, 2002 09:48 PM





