Damn I was installing my camber kit and had the upper control arm disconnected. When I go to angle it back up and fit the upper control arm back into its spot it won't budge. Took me a while because it is dark outside but I found that one of the rubber boots sucked itself in! I can't figure out how that happened and I don't know what to do. It is in the back of the center of the picture. You can clearly see this sucks. It is getting late too I hope someone can help me so I can get this finished tonight.

 

Anybody know? I want to get this done before it gets too late hehe. It is already 10pm!

 

sorry i can't help ya. never seen that before?

 

where you pushing down on the hub/rotor hard at all? i did that once on my accord during a spring install and when i tryed to bolt everything back togher it would not move back up in its spot.

it ended up being the cv joints got pulled apart from pushing down on the rotor.

 

I think that is what happened. I had it sitting there for a while so I guess the pressure pulled it apart inside the boot. I can't figure out how to push it back in though.

 

i ended up taking the hole axels out and taking the joint apart, packing it and puting it back togher. no idea if it hurt the joint or not i sold the car a few weeks after.

 

This problem very rarely can be fixed without taking the axle out. What has actually happened is it got pulled apart, kinda like dislocating your shoulder, that's the best way to discribe it. Sometimes if you are extremely lucky, you can push it back in. If not, you have to remove the axle from the car and either replace the axle (easy way but expensive) or you can remove the boot clean out the grease, pop the "tulip" back in the cup regrease, reboot, and reclamp and then reinstall on car. Once you have the boot off, it's pretty self explanatory. Good Luck.

 

a trick of the trade for getting an inboard joint to pop back in is to remove the outboad joint from the knuckle, then slam it down agaisnt the ground while pushing hard in towards the car. Be VERY carefull not to hit the splines on the floor. If you're lucky it'll pop back in.

 

Wow thanks guys. One question though. The clamps on the boot aren't ordinary clamps? How do I pull them off? Do I just pop them off the little hump or do they break if you take them off?

 

no need to take the whole axle apart, just slam it back into the trans

 

Look at the inboard end of the axle (2nd from bottom row). The inner driver & tripod bearing together, are #6. The inner driver is the cup-shaped thing that is the inboard end of the axle assembly. The tripod bearing will be attached to the end of the axle, inside the rubber boot. The tripod is supposed to slide in & out within the driver cup as the suspension works.

The 3 needle bearings on that tripod have come out of their slots inside the inner driver. First you have to hope that these needle bearings haven't come apart... Then you just have to line them up with the slots in the inner driver & slide them in. If you're lucky you can line that up & slide it together without opening the rubber boot.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WhitEdRift &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wow thanks guys. One question though. The clamps on the boot aren't ordinary clamps? How do I pull them off? Do I just pop them off the little hump or do they break if you take them off?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Same thing happened when my friend and I were trying to install springs on his EP3 Si, damn Mac struts in front. Anyway his inner joint got over-extended just like that. I was freakin out because he was at my house and I was doing most of the work, and I didn't want to be responsible for breaking something on a brand new car.

Anyway we took the axle all the way out, and after taking it out, the joint somehow managed to go back together (we did not take apart the joint or boot or anything). So we just put it back in. I don't know why it wouldn't go back in while the axle was still on the car, but you might want to try just taking the axle out and seeing if you can get the joint back together, w/o taking the joint apart.

 

Thank you guys that helps. It is now 8:24am and I am going out into the windy cold weather to see if I can wiggle it back in. Stupid mistakes hehe. I'll never do that again! Still have the other side to do and the rear. Camber kits... Hehe.

 

Squeeze the boot a little with your hand to make sure none of the bearings came off and are sitting loose inside there. If you feel a free moving lump bouncing around in there you may have to take it apart.

 

It feels all tight. There is nothing moving around in there and apparently it is still connected somehow. When I turn the rotor it spins the axel all the way to the other wheel. I'm not sure where it is disconnected exactly or what is loose for that matter. I've tried wiggling, shoving, yanking and more shoving but I can't see to get it to pop back into place.

 

Take the axle off the car. That's what we had to do on my friend's EP3, when we took it off, the axle was able to go back to normal, almost like it "fixed" itself, but we had to take the axle all the way off the car before it would do that. While it was still on the car, it would not budge.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Take the axle off the car...</TD></TR></TABLE>It's hard to slide it into place unless the axle is lined up straight with the inner driver. When it's on the car, the axle is tilted down because the suspension is extended.

 

what camber kit is that?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by [ iLL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> iNt3GrA]what camber kit is that?</TD></TR></TABLE>

looks like ingalls or an ingalls copy

 

Yeah it is an Ingalls "type" camber kit.

I'm going to take the car to a mechanic and have him do it. Costs like $50 so yeah. Don't have the tools to pull the hub and rotor off to get the axel out. I'll stick around to watch though!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's hard to slide it into place unless the axle is lined up straight with the inner driver. When it's on the car, the axle is tilted down because the suspension is extended.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

well there you have it

now do what I say

*edit* what? No need to remove the hub or rotor to get the axle out. You just have to break the lower ball joint loose, which is really easy w/ a 1/2" drive ratchet handle (or something else of similar size) and a jack. You just jack up the suspension, wedge the ratchet handle or similar in between the tab on the back of the hub and the lower control arm, right by the balljoint, and then release the jack. The suspension will force the balljoint out of the LCA w/o breaking the balljoint boot or anything like that. Oh yeah, you obviously have to remove the castle nut first.

 

I'm guess I have to remove the castle nut from the steering too right? So then I have a free moving joint just connected to the axel but then the hub and rotor are still on... Can I fix it on the car then by lifting up and shoving in or do I have to further remove stuff? Cause it pulls out doesn't it?

Oh yeah my boot has a tiny hole in it too. Will it even be worth fixing it now or should I just pay a shop to replace the whole thing?


Modified by WhitEdRift at 2:53 AM 5/5/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WhitEdRift &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm guess I have to remove the castle nut from the steering too right? So then I have a free moving joint just connected to the axel but then the hub and rotor are still on... Can I fix it on the car then by lifting up and shoving in or do I have to further remove stuff? Cause it pulls out doesn't it?

Oh yeah my boot has a tiny hole in it too. Will it even be worth fixing it now or should I just pay a shop to replace the whole thing?


Modified by WhitEdRift at 2:53 AM 5/5/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>

The only thing you have to unbolt from the hub is the lower balljoint nut. Leave the steering one attached, otherwise you will need to get an alignment afterwards.

 

Ok. Well after giving up I am going to have another go at it. Maybe I can disconnect half of the axel and get it in moving the disconnected side? I'll try prying it apart first though.

 

My heat shield is busted to all hell because of where the castle nut is on the lower control arm. The axel is forcing the rotor to angle down(positive camber in otherwords) and is smashing it against the nut. Had a hell of a time getting that off.

Now I have to get the half shaft out and still disconnect the ball joint from the lower control arm. Not sure how I can do this. Anyone have diagrams of how all these parts fit together? My Chilton's is crap. Plus I don't have some of the tools to get this stuff apart.