some problems
i have a couple problems with my car and i was wondering what they could be/ how to fix them.
1. my srs light is on
2. there is a little black carbon like stuff on the bumper above the pipe, and uses a little bit of oil, mechanic said it runs to good to be the rings and he said there is no sign the head gasket is leaking.
3. when i rev the car up higher there is a little bit of burnt rubber smell shortly after for a second. (and the tires arent spinning)
any help?
1. my srs light is on
2. there is a little black carbon like stuff on the bumper above the pipe, and uses a little bit of oil, mechanic said it runs to good to be the rings and he said there is no sign the head gasket is leaking.
3. when i rev the car up higher there is a little bit of burnt rubber smell shortly after for a second. (and the tires arent spinning)
any help?
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From: Preventing rust on the East Coast!!11!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by parkerjamison »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a couple problems with my car and i was wondering what they could be/ how to fix them.
1. my srs light is on
2. there is a little black carbon like stuff on the bumper above the pipe, and uses a little bit of oil, mechanic said it runs to good to be the rings and he said there is no sign the head gasket is leaking.
3. when i rev the car up higher there is a little bit of burnt rubber smell shortly after for a second. (and the tires arent spinning)
any help?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i would say that #2&3 are caused by bad valve seals... are you sure that burnt rubber smell isnt burnt oil smell... and the black on the bumper is oil
1. my srs light is on
2. there is a little black carbon like stuff on the bumper above the pipe, and uses a little bit of oil, mechanic said it runs to good to be the rings and he said there is no sign the head gasket is leaking.
3. when i rev the car up higher there is a little bit of burnt rubber smell shortly after for a second. (and the tires arent spinning)
any help?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i would say that #2&3 are caused by bad valve seals... are you sure that burnt rubber smell isnt burnt oil smell... and the black on the bumper is oil
For the SRS, pull the codes like a CEL. Here is an instruction link.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=978933
Here are the SRS codes.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2105751
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=978933
Here are the SRS codes.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2105751
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Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Preventing rust on the East Coast!!11!
perform a compression test to determine if you have good compression... then move to a leakdown test to see where compression is leaking/ how much is leaking... fix whatever is leaking compression, install new valve seals, and you should stop your burning oil problem...
as far as fixing the srs light go with what dogginator said...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dogginator »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For the SRS, pull the codes like a CEL. Here is an instruction link.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=978933
Here are the SRS codes.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2105751</TD></TR></TABLE>
as far as fixing the srs light go with what dogginator said...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dogginator »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For the SRS, pull the codes like a CEL. Here is an instruction link.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=978933
Here are the SRS codes.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2105751</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by parkerjamison »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">alright sounds good, but expensive/difficult job for valve seals?</TD></TR></TABLE>
There is a link in the FAQ. I think they pulled the head in that case.
There is a link in the FAQ. I think they pulled the head in that case.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dogginator »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
There is a link in the FAQ. I think they pulled the head in that case.</TD></TR></TABLE>
say i took it to a mechanic, expensive?
There is a link in the FAQ. I think they pulled the head in that case.</TD></TR></TABLE>
say i took it to a mechanic, expensive?
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From: Preventing rust on the East Coast!!11!
i would bring it to a mechanic if your not mechinally inclined, or dont have a set of tools and a valve spring compressor... when i performed my rebuild i wasnt able to put the valve seals in because my valve spring compressor wouldnt fit correctly... i ended up taking the head to a machine shop to be decked, and valve job done with the new valve seals...
if you bring the head to a machine shop yourself it'll probably only be a couple hundred..
if you bring the head to a machine shop yourself it'll probably only be a couple hundred..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by steveo135 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would bring it to a mechanic if your not mechinally inclined, or dont have a set of tools and a valve spring compressor... when i performed my rebuild i wasnt able to put the valve seals in because my valve spring compressor wouldnt fit correctly... i ended up taking the head to a machine shop to be decked, and valve job done with the new valve seals...
if you bring the head to a machine shop yourself it'll probably only be a couple hundred..</TD></TR></TABLE>
im some what mechanically inclined, my dad restores antique cars, so i've had my share of rebuilding engines. but the valve spring compressor that we have fits the old cars so i dont know if it would work for this type of engine.
but, a machine shop would be more cheaper to fix the valve seals rather than just the mechanic who usually fixes my car?
if you bring the head to a machine shop yourself it'll probably only be a couple hundred..</TD></TR></TABLE>
im some what mechanically inclined, my dad restores antique cars, so i've had my share of rebuilding engines. but the valve spring compressor that we have fits the old cars so i dont know if it would work for this type of engine.
but, a machine shop would be more cheaper to fix the valve seals rather than just the mechanic who usually fixes my car?
A guy on Ebay (jarrot if I recall correctly) sold B-series VTEC valve spring compressors that could remove the springs without removing the head. If you have a non-VTEC, Snap-On sells a tool to compress the valve springs without removing the head.
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Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Preventing rust on the East Coast!!11!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by parkerjamison »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
im some what mechanically inclined, my dad restores antique cars, so i've had my share of rebuilding engines. but the valve spring compressor that we have fits the old cars so i dont know if it would work for this type of engine.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you have experience rebuilding then you should just do it yourself but you would probably need a new spring compressor
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by parkerjamison »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
but, a machine shop would be more cheaper to fix the valve seals rather than just the mechanic who usually fixes my car?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I wouldnt say that.. I just had them do it because they were taking the valves out to do new seats as well
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dogginator »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A guy on Ebay (jarrot if I recall correctly) sold B-series VTEC valve spring compressors that could remove the springs without removing the head. If you have a non-VTEC, Snap-On sells a tool to compress the valve springs without removing the head.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep you just need a compressor to keep pressure in the cylinder while you remove the springs/seals
Modified by steveo135 at 11:50 PM 10/1/2008
im some what mechanically inclined, my dad restores antique cars, so i've had my share of rebuilding engines. but the valve spring compressor that we have fits the old cars so i dont know if it would work for this type of engine.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you have experience rebuilding then you should just do it yourself but you would probably need a new spring compressor
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by parkerjamison »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
but, a machine shop would be more cheaper to fix the valve seals rather than just the mechanic who usually fixes my car?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I wouldnt say that.. I just had them do it because they were taking the valves out to do new seats as well
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dogginator »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A guy on Ebay (jarrot if I recall correctly) sold B-series VTEC valve spring compressors that could remove the springs without removing the head. If you have a non-VTEC, Snap-On sells a tool to compress the valve springs without removing the head.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep you just need a compressor to keep pressure in the cylinder while you remove the springs/seals
Modified by steveo135 at 11:50 PM 10/1/2008
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