She wont start
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She wont start
So I just finished putting in new spark plugs, and replaced all of the belts in my da. When I try to start her up it sounds like a 'knocking' sound almost, along with bogging down.. Her clutch was in (obviously) and in neutral. I'm thinking I somehow fucked up her timing gears, but I honestly have no idea. She's my daily driver, so I currently have no transportation. Besides my parents -_-. So I'm kinda totally panicking. HELP!!!!
#2
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Re: She wont start
Check timing(mechanical) also confirm that you're getting spark + fuel. imo your timing is off simply make sure the bottom is at TDC along with the head, spin the engine by hand(19mm on the crank pulley).
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Re: She wont start
Here a video of me trying to start her up. I wanted to see what you guys thought of it before I take her apart again.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m1hvO...ature=youtu.be
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m1hvO...ature=youtu.be
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#8
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Re: She wont start
So to re-cap mechanical timing is set block is at TDC(do the pencil trick to confirm) along with the head. Are you getting fuel and spark ? is everything plugged in ? something is missing here it almost turns over but not quite.
Last edited by B_Swapped93; 08-09-2013 at 01:31 PM. Reason: typo
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Re: She wont start
Their NGK plugs. The same ones that were there before. I checked one, and it was fine. So I didn't bother with the other ones. I will check and gap the others now tho. lol
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Re: She wont start
#12
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Re: She wont start
Stick a LONG pencil like object down the cylinder #1 spark plug well(so it rests on the piston top) then spin the engine via the pulley bolt and when you see the pencil go up thrn start to go down balance it so it's as high as it will go. at this point make sure the valve cover is off and see that the cams are at TDC.
Also do you know how to 100% confirm you are getting spark + fuel ?
here's some pics
Also do you know how to 100% confirm you are getting spark + fuel ?
here's some pics
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Re: She wont start
No I don't know how. And what does TDC mean exactly? Sorry, I'm a noob :/
ok.. Here's my other problem then. When I align the TDC grooves, the "up" arrow is off by 2 or three notches. But then when I align the "up" arrow correctly, the TDC grooves aren't aligned anymore! What do I do? Or which ones should I align???? Before my car overheated, and I replaced all that I did, she drove and started up fine..
ok.. Here's my other problem then. When I align the TDC grooves, the "up" arrow is off by 2 or three notches. But then when I align the "up" arrow correctly, the TDC grooves aren't aligned anymore! What do I do? Or which ones should I align???? Before my car overheated, and I replaced all that I did, she drove and started up fine..
#14
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Re: She wont start
TDC:top dead center when the piston is at it's highest point. so you've pretty much told me your timing is off by the arrows and tdc groves not lining up. undo the timing belt tensioner it can be hard to reach (see pics)and set the cams so that the little side marks line up with each other(up arrows should be "up") you can turn them by hand ot put a ratchet(14mm) over the little bolt and turn it that way. then put the belt back and tighten it up if that doesn't do it we can eliminate that from the list of possibilities.
here's some pics
here's some pics
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Re: She wont start
U need to align the bottom crank pulley first. The crank pulley will have four dent marks on the pulley. Three dent marks will closer together and there will one dent mark further away to the right of other three dents.
Line up the one dent that's further away by itself from the other three dents. The dent by itself should be ur tdc (top dead center) for ur number 1 pistons.
Next stick a long stick in cylinder one spark plug hole (of course with the spark plug out) to verify u are tdc on cylinder 1. You should be able to tell cause the stick shouldn't go too far down past the bottom of the spark hole.
After u have verify tdc on cylinder one, you need to look at ur cam gears. The up on the gear should b pointed up. There are also little dents marks on the cam gears (as shown in the pic above). Those dents marks need to line up with the parallel line on the timing cover. If its not lined up and you've verify the crank pulley and cylinder one is on top dead center,
then next step u need to do is loosen the timing belt tensioner ( pics above ) and slide the timing belt off the cam gears. Then you'll have access to just move the cam gears by itself. Use a 12mm socket with ratchet and place it over the cam gear nuts and turn to line up the little dent marks parallel with the line on the timing cover.
Once u get that set them slide the timing belt over the exhaust cam gear first (making sure u don't move the cam gear) then pull up slightly and slide over the intake cam gear.
Now tighten the tensioner back up and rotate the crank COUNTER CLOCKWISE till the timing belt get loose on the water pump side (feel for slack on the water pump side) when u do feel slack on the pump side, loosen tensioner again and retighten. The belt should have tension now. Make sure u get a straight edge ruler and use the end of the ruler to check for too much tension. The belt should have a tension but not too much.
Now rotate crank now counter clockwise about 4-5 times to around and line up the crank pulley and cylinder one to tdc. Check ur cam gears dent marks to make sure they are parallel with the line on the timing cover. If its checks out good then u are timed.
Last thing now is to open ur distrubitor cap (should be three Philips head screw ) unscrew and take cap off. Set ur distributor upright the way it's suppose to install on ur cams. There is a rotor that u can turn, turn that rotor to number 1 plug wire.
Distrubitor plug wires number order.
Top distrubitor plug wire order--------3-4
Bottom distrubitor plug wire order-----1-2
Make sure u plug the same plug wires to the same cylinder.
If you've done it all right it should crank up no problem.
That's how I always do my timing
SORrY tOO LONG BUT ITll WOrK FOR b18s and b20s MOTORs
Good luck
Line up the one dent that's further away by itself from the other three dents. The dent by itself should be ur tdc (top dead center) for ur number 1 pistons.
Next stick a long stick in cylinder one spark plug hole (of course with the spark plug out) to verify u are tdc on cylinder 1. You should be able to tell cause the stick shouldn't go too far down past the bottom of the spark hole.
After u have verify tdc on cylinder one, you need to look at ur cam gears. The up on the gear should b pointed up. There are also little dents marks on the cam gears (as shown in the pic above). Those dents marks need to line up with the parallel line on the timing cover. If its not lined up and you've verify the crank pulley and cylinder one is on top dead center,
then next step u need to do is loosen the timing belt tensioner ( pics above ) and slide the timing belt off the cam gears. Then you'll have access to just move the cam gears by itself. Use a 12mm socket with ratchet and place it over the cam gear nuts and turn to line up the little dent marks parallel with the line on the timing cover.
Once u get that set them slide the timing belt over the exhaust cam gear first (making sure u don't move the cam gear) then pull up slightly and slide over the intake cam gear.
Now tighten the tensioner back up and rotate the crank COUNTER CLOCKWISE till the timing belt get loose on the water pump side (feel for slack on the water pump side) when u do feel slack on the pump side, loosen tensioner again and retighten. The belt should have tension now. Make sure u get a straight edge ruler and use the end of the ruler to check for too much tension. The belt should have a tension but not too much.
Now rotate crank now counter clockwise about 4-5 times to around and line up the crank pulley and cylinder one to tdc. Check ur cam gears dent marks to make sure they are parallel with the line on the timing cover. If its checks out good then u are timed.
Last thing now is to open ur distrubitor cap (should be three Philips head screw ) unscrew and take cap off. Set ur distributor upright the way it's suppose to install on ur cams. There is a rotor that u can turn, turn that rotor to number 1 plug wire.
Distrubitor plug wires number order.
Top distrubitor plug wire order--------3-4
Bottom distrubitor plug wire order-----1-2
Make sure u plug the same plug wires to the same cylinder.
If you've done it all right it should crank up no problem.
That's how I always do my timing
SORrY tOO LONG BUT ITll WOrK FOR b18s and b20s MOTORs
Good luck
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Re: She wont start
So I now want to punch myself in le face. She's been running fine. I get home and I pop her hood to check the fluid levels and make sure nothing came loose and such. Her fluids are fine, but I notice the vavle cover is a tad loose and I tighten it down again. But I accidentally did this....
file:///C:/Users/House/Desktop/IMG_6649.JPG
file:///C:/Users/House/Desktop/IMG_6650.JPG
My questions are. How serious is that? What is that ground for? How can I fix it? Does it need to be connected, or can I just leave it for now, and get away with driving around anyways, without anything bad happening?
file:///C:/Users/House/Desktop/IMG_6649.JPG
file:///C:/Users/House/Desktop/IMG_6650.JPG
My questions are. How serious is that? What is that ground for? How can I fix it? Does it need to be connected, or can I just leave it for now, and get away with driving around anyways, without anything bad happening?
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Re: She wont start
#22
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Re: She wont start
Not a serious ground like the chassis to battery or transmission, you'll be ok to drive around with out it if need be. What you can do is try and find another hole to attach it to. Is there any bit of the stud left that you could get some vise grips around and twist it out ? hard to see from that slide show.
the point of it, it's just another grounding path for the engine. i've had it unhooked on cars before and they ran fine.
the point of it, it's just another grounding path for the engine. i've had it unhooked on cars before and they ran fine.
#23
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Re: She wont start
Not a serious ground like the chassis to battery or transmission, you'll be ok to drive around with out it if need be. What you can do is try and find another hole to attach it to. Is there any bit of the stud left that you could get some vise grips around and twist it out ? hard to see from that slide show.
the point of it, it's just another grounding path for the engine. i've had it unhooked on cars before and they ran fine.
the point of it, it's just another grounding path for the engine. i've had it unhooked on cars before and they ran fine.
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