why do i even bother posting... am i a ghost?

 

I appreciate your post....but,

the oil thing has been touched on in the past. I don't particularly like it, although it works for some people...especially those like you who are up North.

 

didn't quite follow tweak. You saying that in your experience oiling didn't work? Or you just don't want oil stuck to your car?

 

hahah, no i read your whole post, very informative, i also noticed that you are from smiths falls, well i'm from kingston......not too many ontario members on ht... cheers

 

did they replace teh panel or just cut it out and weld in a new piece?

 

i wouldn't, the lip is gonna chip, your bound to kick up stones and knock off the paint. Seems like a good reason for the moulding to me.

d

 

yep, we should invite some of those guys up here and show them what rust IS. There is no way i'm going to wax it off my car.

d

 

Daver:

To clarify,

-I thoroughly clean my car, even during the winter. (I use a bucket of hot water to keep my hands warm )

-I have chosen not to go the oil route for several reasons, the primary one being that I inspect my vehicle often enough to catch rust in the early stage (should it occur). If rust does develop, then I go ahead and take the necessary steps to contain and defeat it.

-If you click on my site's link, you'll see where I removed the rubber moulding strips. To me it is much easier to repair a couple of stone chips on an area that isn't visable to the passer-by than to leave the stripping on there, which can only help rust occur (in my opinion).

Up north you are subject to an onslaught of salt/water/whatever during almost the entire winter. Here, last week the roads were white (salt/snow), and this week we had a day that was 50F...certainly warm enough to wash the car. It is for that reason that I really find no need for the oil...it's just going overboard for the conditions locally.


[Modified by Tweakmeister, 3:05 PM 2/5/2003]

 

hot water freezes faster than cold water...

 

Well, that's a fine plan to take care of your car, for those who live in a more moderate climate with no big salt issue.

You guys really only have stone chips and frictionally caused EXTERNAL rusting that developes. But for us salty dogs, i guarantee you that almost all the rust developes from the inside out, rust that you can't see until its soo too late that new metal and welding is required.

That said, this kind of rusting is beside the point of the original thread topic. Just a for rustproofing for those in salty lands. Its priceless.

One other thing, if you go from a wintery salty day to a warm spring like day, by all means wash that car. Heat is the third ingredient for rust. Washing won't do stink for getting off the salt that gets down btw your door skins, under the windshield surround moulding and some how in your rocker panels tho.

I've gotta post some pictures for you guys.

d

 

haha I want to see some pictures

 

buy a winter beater car!

 

im not even gonna do the body work on my car until I have a house with a garage to put it in

 

or let your present car rust out, keep that one for a winter beater, and get a nice summer only car (like i'm doing haha).

No, i'm going to try my hand at body work first still, see how long it lasts

d

 

would it defeat the purpose of removing the strips if i took some electrical tape and ran it in place of the moulding to protect the paint?

-tony

 

i don't think the tape would last thru to many rainstorms. And all the while it would trap the crud up there like the rubber strip would.

I was wondering if some gravel guard sprayed on would work. Like the stippled looking rubber they spray on the bottom side of the rocker panels, under the paint. Like truck bedliner spray. I mean they do it for the rest of the rear wheel well, maybe the sharp edge of the lip is too much for it. The best bet i think would be for honda to put in a whole plastic wheel well liner like they do in the front.

d

 

Ok, here's the album link.. http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4290710435

Sorry i dont' have any G3 rust pics for you modern guys. The white car is my '90 integra and the blue car is my moms '92 civic hatch.

left rocker panel right in front of the rear wheel. Rusted from the inside out


the civic one doesn't look nearly as bad, but as opposed to being solid surface rust, i could poke my finger right thru it like butter


while the wheel arch rubber hasn't helped much here, most of this rusting came from the moisture being trapped btw the inner and outer skins


my tegra only has good solid surface rust (i hope). From constant wheel spray hammering salt and crap into the bumper crack. Notice the bumper just hanging, no longer having metal to mount to


drivers side door bottom, entirely from salt and moisture dripping down the window and festering btw the door skins crack. Incidentally, the passenger side looks almost mint. The drivers side gets all on coming traffic slush splashes while the passenger side gets nearly nil
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid50/pa806fab902815c8dc1698906ed90a948/fcacc077.jpg

Top of windshield corner, still solid surface rust working up from below the moulding where the salt gets trapped...since i started squirting oil down there, the rust hasn't advanced.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...9/fcacc075.jpg

For lots more pictures, go to the imagestation link at the top...if you care. Also if you care, rust proof your car if you drive it in winter salt. Don't let it end up like mine.

d


[Modified by daver, 12:26 AM 2/7/2003]


[Modified by daver, 12:28 AM 2/7/2003]

 

I live in NYC and we get snow and salt like most people living in the NE. I'm still uncertain whether or not I should remove the rear moldings on my teg. When you guys mentioned squirting oil in between the molding and the rear wheel well, what kind of oil were you referring to? Would a lubricant like WD40 work as well?

 

that was me who suggested oiling underneath the rubber surround. Like i said, dont' use wd40, it doesn't have the moisture dissipitant properties that real "rustproofing oil" has (and other properties i can't remember now). I don't know what brands you have there, but we have "rust check" and "krown" rustproofing chains that have their own spray bom (balm, bomb) versions.

I use that to spray in every external crack and cranny that the regular rustproofing won't account for, like i was trained to do when i worked in the business.

That said, i've never taken off the wheel arch surround. I dont' know if its glued on or if it would stay on if it were oiled up. Just my suggestion and i will try that route after i get the body work done.

Salt is no joke, it has eaten away the cement floor of my garage where it has dripped off the cars over the years (only took a couple). I hear now that there is a kind of sealer that i "could" have gotten that would have averted it.

d

 

wow yeah that's the northern climate punishment effect. why many people drive a winter beater (or a truck).

I can name several spots on my car where I know water and other crap builds up. I pretty much start having to remove pieces to clean there...like the taillights, etc.