Rust, the ultimate enemy!!!
I have a 99 GSR, and I have begun to notice that at the rear tire where most hondas are prone to rust where the rear bumper and the body of the car meet I am begining to notice discoloration and a definite orange color starting to appear. I want to know what you guys are doing to stop this slow distruction of mother nature.
To awnser your question, yes they do salt in my area and I still wash my car at least once a week no matter what. And to reply to the other guy, it is not that bad I just want to know if there is anything I can do to prevent it from happening furthur. I just don't want it to really become an issue of body work if you know what I mean.
i got my whole car painted the rust knocked off...same with my friends 95. it came back...I am just waiting until i get back home to California and haveing them cut a big chunk out and welding new sheet metal to it. I know it sounds like alot of work, but i am convinced that it won't go away.
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Is Rust covered in the warranty?
otherwise, try some undercoating or just spray some WD-40 or something like that to displace the water that's getting caught there....
salt sux!!!
Is Rust covered in the warranty?
you can always choose to fine sand that area and put a light coat of motor oil over it...it should stop the rust in that area. the problem that you face then is needing to reoil after you wash it. Another way is fine sand then paint or clear coat it...might end up looking kinda ricerish...
[Modified by sirapio, 5:45 PM 2/3/2003]
[Modified by sirapio, 5:45 PM 2/3/2003]
people, you got to remove the rear fender well rubber lining. that stuff traps water on the edge of your rear fender well edges, and can cause rusting. i am shocked that you're finding it on your 99... but those rubber strips can cause problems.
its a real easy fix. just locate the end of the rubber strip (they're only on the rear wells), and pull it off....
its a real easy fix. just locate the end of the rubber strip (they're only on the rear wells), and pull it off....
[QUOTE]. i am shocked that you're finding it on your 99... but those rubber strips can cause problems.
QUOTE]
Like I said it is not that bad but I have got 62k on the car and I can see the initial stages of it begining.
QUOTE]
Like I said it is not that bad but I have got 62k on the car and I can see the initial stages of it begining.
That rear liner is big problem but its not the only one in that area one. It sounds like it may be the spot where the bumper actually connects to the car's metal. Every frikin honda over 5 years old around here seems to have it starting out of there abouts.
My '90 teg is to the point where the bumper no longer has any mounts to attach to. The metal is rusted gone. The wheel surround moulding isn't good either, but its minor compared to the bumper mount.
I think the 'cause is the friction btw the bumper/metal connection wearing a bit of paint off, and then the tire kicks up the salt into the crack making the heat/oxygen/moisture poison react X 1000.
The wheel surround and the bumper mounts are tough spots to fix. Sanding and painting it won't do stink. You'd have to sandblast to get all the little pits, and then still likely need some acid wash treatment to properly "cure" it, before painting (although they have some good sealing primers out now). There's also special rust "transforming" paints out there that are supposed to turn the actual rust into "black metal" (like Pore 15). Fine if its not showing 'cause it leaves an uglier finish; i have no personal experience with those products -yet.
The best quick fix tho, is oil. NOT motor oil, not wd40 but an oil specific for rust (like Rust Check, Krown). They contain moisture dissipitants, expansion characteristics and a bunch of other garb i can't remember. You can get the spray boms for cheap enough.
Now, with normal rustproofing, the oil is sprayed onto the inside of the body panels through drilled holes. Like the rocker panels (a biggy), doors and inner wheel surrounds. But the oil on these secluded spots are well protected from being washed away (unlike the spots in question), and the rustproofing is recommended once per year. But until you can get the thing sandblasted or otherwise fixed properly, i'd undo the bumper from behind the rear wheels hammer some oil in there regularly (or dont' take it off), as well as taking off the wheel lip mouldings, cleaning and oiling. I wouldn't leave the lip off, the paint will get chipped and rust anyway. The lip, in place, my help preserve the oiling.
Anyway, that's what i think. I also think that the fact i used to be a rustproofer helped my thoughts. and for those who live in a climate with no snow and salt...i hate you.
d
My '90 teg is to the point where the bumper no longer has any mounts to attach to. The metal is rusted gone. The wheel surround moulding isn't good either, but its minor compared to the bumper mount.
I think the 'cause is the friction btw the bumper/metal connection wearing a bit of paint off, and then the tire kicks up the salt into the crack making the heat/oxygen/moisture poison react X 1000.
The wheel surround and the bumper mounts are tough spots to fix. Sanding and painting it won't do stink. You'd have to sandblast to get all the little pits, and then still likely need some acid wash treatment to properly "cure" it, before painting (although they have some good sealing primers out now). There's also special rust "transforming" paints out there that are supposed to turn the actual rust into "black metal" (like Pore 15). Fine if its not showing 'cause it leaves an uglier finish; i have no personal experience with those products -yet.
The best quick fix tho, is oil. NOT motor oil, not wd40 but an oil specific for rust (like Rust Check, Krown). They contain moisture dissipitants, expansion characteristics and a bunch of other garb i can't remember. You can get the spray boms for cheap enough.
Now, with normal rustproofing, the oil is sprayed onto the inside of the body panels through drilled holes. Like the rocker panels (a biggy), doors and inner wheel surrounds. But the oil on these secluded spots are well protected from being washed away (unlike the spots in question), and the rustproofing is recommended once per year. But until you can get the thing sandblasted or otherwise fixed properly, i'd undo the bumper from behind the rear wheels hammer some oil in there regularly (or dont' take it off), as well as taking off the wheel lip mouldings, cleaning and oiling. I wouldn't leave the lip off, the paint will get chipped and rust anyway. The lip, in place, my help preserve the oiling.
Anyway, that's what i think. I also think that the fact i used to be a rustproofer helped my thoughts. and for those who live in a climate with no snow and salt...i hate you.
d
rust was covered on my warranty and I have a 97...
Wax wax wax!! Thats your best bet- and if the rust is not bad, the wax will get it off.
people, you got to remove the rear fender well rubber lining. that stuff traps water on the edge of your rear fender well edges, and can cause rusting. i am shocked that you're finding it on your 99... but those rubber strips can cause problems.
its a real easy fix. just locate the end of the rubber strip (they're only on the rear wells), and pull it off....
its a real easy fix. just locate the end of the rubber strip (they're only on the rear wells), and pull it off....
-tony
YES, whether or not you get snow salt or anything get rid of them, they do nothing for your car and it pisses me off that honda even put them on the car. if you ever wash your car water still gets inside there, hell just the moisture in the air is enough
"Thats a good idea I will to check that out because I think that it is covered for 100,000 miles. So I will call my dealership but they will probablly tell me that, they can't do it becaue my car has been modified, because it is lowered, and then I will bust out the Mognusom-Moss Act."
Whats the Mognusom-Moss act? I have a feeling this could help a couple of my buddies
Whats the Mognusom-Moss act? I have a feeling this could help a couple of my buddies
"Thats a good idea I will to check that out because I think that it is covered for 100,000 miles. So I will call my dealership but they will probablly tell me that, they can't do it becaue my car has been modified, because it is lowered, and then I will bust out the Mognusom-Moss Act."
Whats the Mognusom-Moss act? I have a feeling this could help a couple of my buddies
Whats the Mognusom-Moss act? I have a feeling this could help a couple of my buddies


