JDeez_1212

I am new up here and i just recently bought a 95 ls/vtec turbo integra. Well the other day my rpm gauge needle started "bouncing" my car is not reving or anything, the needle just keeps going crazy. I replaced the whole gauge cluster but it still does it. I NEED HELP!

DirtyDA9

I believe RPM signal is sent from the distributor. There's your problem, not the cluster.

JDeez_1212

So i should replace the distributor?? Is that going to cost a lot?? like i said im new to all this.. sorry for the dumb questions..

DirtyDA9

They usually go for $100-$120 used. I would definately go for a used OEM one from someone on here, DON'T buy a knockoff from pepboys or autozone. I forget exactly which part in the distributor but I'm sure you could just buy that for much cheaper the a whole dist. from a honda dealership. But like you said you are new to this so I don't know if you would be able to take apart the distributor yourself to replace it.

JDeez_1212

I have an uncle that works on cars and a few friends that do it as well. So as long as i get that part im sure i can find someone to put it in. I thought it could have been the gauge or the wires, but i guess not. Thanks for your help!

DirtyDA9

No problem. I just realized it is the igniter that sends the signal, I'm pretty sure. It is a very easy swap. Just two screws and 4 little wires to pull off of it. Try to buy one without the heat-sink, it will be alot cheaper. Just use your old heatsink.

JDeez_1212

Alright will do!

fcm

There are no dumb questions, just dumb answers.

As mentioned, the problem is most likely in the distributor, specifically the RPM output from the ICM, [ignition control module or igniter] it is the blue lead at the distributor assembly.

The first thing I would check is the connection of the blue lead to the ICMs RPM output terminal.
This is the ICM...


Here is a good link on how to test/replace the ICM if you need to...
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr....-Lots-of-Pics!

However, I would start by making sure all the connectors, [pay close attention to the blue lead connector] are "snugly" plugged onto the ICM terminals, if they are loose unplug them and use a set of pliers to "pinch" the connector together a little, [be carefull not to over "pinch" the connector and damage it.

If that does not solve the problem I would next do a continuity test on the blue lead at the ICM, [blue lead connector] and the blue lead in the cluster plug, there should be little or no resistance, [full continuity] at the same time check the continuity to ground, [cars chassis or any good ground point] of the cluster plugs ground, black lead, same thing goes, should be full continuity to ground.

If both are good, replace the ICM before it fails completely, leaving you with a tow bill. 94

JDeez_1212

That helps out a lot.. i will hopefully figure it out friday when i am able to work on it again. thanks a lot!

JDeez_1212

Well I found out that it was a bad wire going to the distributor, so I'm just going to replace the whole thing rather than tracing the wire.

dat192

I know this is real old but did it also make your car sputter and feel as tho there was a lack of power?

el crapitan

if those are symptoms you're noticing, follow fcm's testing procedure. a bad icm will definitely cause lack of power/bogging and irratic tach