I am new up here and i just recently bought a 95 ls/vtec turbo integra. Well the other day my rpm gauge needle started "bouncing" my car is not reving or anything, the needle just keeps going crazy. I replaced the whole gauge cluster but it still does it. I NEED HELP!

 

I believe RPM signal is sent from the distributor. There's your problem, not the cluster.

 

So i should replace the distributor?? Is that going to cost a lot?? like i said im new to all this.. sorry for the dumb questions..

 

They usually go for $100-$120 used. I would definately go for a used OEM one from someone on here, DON'T buy a knockoff from pepboys or autozone. I forget exactly which part in the distributor but I'm sure you could just buy that for much cheaper the a whole dist. from a honda dealership. But like you said you are new to this so I don't know if you would be able to take apart the distributor yourself to replace it.

 

I have an uncle that works on cars and a few friends that do it as well. So as long as i get that part im sure i can find someone to put it in. I thought it could have been the gauge or the wires, but i guess not. Thanks for your help!

 

No problem. I just realized it is the igniter that sends the signal, I'm pretty sure. It is a very easy swap. Just two screws and 4 little wires to pull off of it. Try to buy one without the heat-sink, it will be alot cheaper. Just use your old heatsink.

 

Alright will do!

 

There are no dumb questions, just dumb answers.

As mentioned, the problem is most likely in the distributor, specifically the RPM output from the ICM, [ignition control module or igniter] it is the blue lead at the distributor assembly.

The first thing I would check is the connection of the blue lead to the ICMs RPM output terminal.
This is the ICM...


Here is a good link on how to test/replace the ICM if you need to...
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr....-Lots-of-Pics!

However, I would start by making sure all the connectors, [pay close attention to the blue lead connector] are "snugly" plugged onto the ICM terminals, if they are loose unplug them and use a set of pliers to "pinch" the connector together a little, [be carefull not to over "pinch" the connector and damage it.

If that does not solve the problem I would next do a continuity test on the blue lead at the ICM, [blue lead connector] and the blue lead in the cluster plug, there should be little or no resistance, [full continuity] at the same time check the continuity to ground, [cars chassis or any good ground point] of the cluster plugs ground, black lead, same thing goes, should be full continuity to ground.

If both are good, replace the ICM before it fails completely, leaving you with a tow bill. 94

 

That helps out a lot.. i will hopefully figure it out friday when i am able to work on it again. thanks a lot!

 

Well I found out that it was a bad wire going to the distributor, so I'm just going to replace the whole thing rather than tracing the wire.

 

I know this is real old but did it also make your car sputter and feel as tho there was a lack of power?

 

if those are symptoms you're noticing, follow fcm's testing procedure. a bad icm will definitely cause lack of power/bogging and irratic tach